63LikesThe New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine
05-23-2010 | 05:39 PM
#3406
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 587
05-23-2010 | 05:42 PM
#3407
That will work and a 2035 works pretty good with it also...
05-23-2010 | 06:01 PM
#3408
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,360
Ya when you say peak power how much top speed and bottom end am i gonna miss out on? a lot or just a little? I should ask how noticable will it be? Well i forgot to mention that if i get one it will be the clockworks modded one. Well thank you for the help and if any of you guys ever need to sell a werks 2013 or 2057 lmk i might be a possible buyer. Thanks
05-23-2010 | 06:03 PM
#3409
Ya when you say peak power how much top speed and bottom end am i gonna miss out on? a lot or just a little? I should ask how noticable will it be? Well i forgot to mention that if i get one it will be the clockworks modded one. Well thank you for the help and if any of you guys ever need to sell a werks 2013 or 2057 lmk i might be a possible buyer. Thanks
05-23-2010 | 06:06 PM
#3410
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 587
Ya when you say peak power how much top speed and bottom end am i gonna miss out on? a lot or just a little? I should ask how noticable will it be? Well i forgot to mention that if i get one it will be the clockworks modded one. Well thank you for the help and if any of you guys ever need to sell a werks 2013 or 2057 lmk i might be a possible buyer. Thanks
05-23-2010 | 06:23 PM
#3411
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 272
Kinda stuck with the D8 build..I am trying to get the flywheel onto the crankshaft but with the Werks supplied collet it rubs against the carb. I was trying to locate a Savage collet that I heard works fine but LHS does not have them in stock. Next option was to but spacers/washers first before putting on the collet. I need a 7mm ID and a 10mm OD to have the washer sit against the metal ring of the bearing.. Cannot find that size but did find a washer with 7mm ID but the OD is larger than the bearing itself....Are there any drawbacks to using the large washer? thanks
05-23-2010 | 06:32 PM
#3412
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,360
Kinda stuck with the D8 build..I am trying to get the flywheel onto the crankshaft but with the Werks supplied collet it rubs against the carb. I was trying to locate a Savage collet that I heard works fine but LHS does not have them in stock. Next option was to but spacers/washers first before putting on the collet. I need a 7mm ID and a 10mm OD to have the washer sit against the metal ring of the bearing.. Cannot find that size but did find a washer with 7mm ID but the OD is larger than the bearing itself....Are there any drawbacks to using the large washer? thanks
05-23-2010 | 06:36 PM
#3415
No problem stock. Especialy the stock v-spec It will eat that up and say may I have another. I know, v-specs are all I use to run
05-23-2010 | 07:20 PM
#3416
A lot of you have read my posts about the b5 and jp4 pipe. I wanted to chime in and note that I went out today on a completely different day, brand new 97t plug, and re-confirmed my belief that this pipe and motor are just a bad pair for good low to mid throttle operation. If you tune the LSN to idle well, it is really fat in the mid range. If you try to tune for good low/mid, at idle, the motor idles very erratically because it is so lean and will never load up at all.
For those who are curious, this was the tuning method I used when re-evaluating.
The first thing I do is get it 'a little rich on thebox', meaning I get it to a point on the box where I know it is close, but a bit rich on top/bottom when put on the ground. I do this before any full re-tune. This was a warm and humid day with a brand new 97t plug. First I warmed up the motor, richened all the needles till they were both obviously fat -- there was no top end to the motor and the motor would go fully loaded almost instantly when it came back to idle and rev up like a smoke machine if you sat for a few seconds. Next I tuned the HSN on the box till it cleaned out and didn't sound faster when I blipped the throttle on the box. I then tuned the LSN so that after cleaning out with a few good pulls of the throttle it would idle for about 5 seconds before loading up. At this point, it would high idle for a moment as well, then idle for around 5 seconds, then load up.
Next I tuned the high speed with repeated pulls back and fourth on the street to where it was just nearly at top speed and stable temp wise. Today, on a warm muggy day, that was in the 220-230 range. Next I adjusted the LSN so it would take around 3 seconds to come back from high idle, then around 15 more seconds to drop to a loaded up idle speed. At this point, the motor operated really well, but if you just drove slow in part throttle, it was obviously fat and boggy after a moment and transition to full throttle showed it had loaded up pretty good. Adjusting the HSN leaner makes it run too hot on full speed runs, and djusting the LSN much leaner makes the car run on when returning to idle and idle erratically, never loading up.
In pure race conditions, since you always blip a bit and keep the motor clean, it really doesn't do much, but it will getcha if you need a short take-off where you didn't get to keep it clean. This is a condition that I would just adjust out of a 3 needle carb, or at least improve. I'm hopeful that a 2057 will make this better.
For those who are curious, this was the tuning method I used when re-evaluating.
The first thing I do is get it 'a little rich on thebox', meaning I get it to a point on the box where I know it is close, but a bit rich on top/bottom when put on the ground. I do this before any full re-tune. This was a warm and humid day with a brand new 97t plug. First I warmed up the motor, richened all the needles till they were both obviously fat -- there was no top end to the motor and the motor would go fully loaded almost instantly when it came back to idle and rev up like a smoke machine if you sat for a few seconds. Next I tuned the HSN on the box till it cleaned out and didn't sound faster when I blipped the throttle on the box. I then tuned the LSN so that after cleaning out with a few good pulls of the throttle it would idle for about 5 seconds before loading up. At this point, it would high idle for a moment as well, then idle for around 5 seconds, then load up.
Next I tuned the high speed with repeated pulls back and fourth on the street to where it was just nearly at top speed and stable temp wise. Today, on a warm muggy day, that was in the 220-230 range. Next I adjusted the LSN so it would take around 3 seconds to come back from high idle, then around 15 more seconds to drop to a loaded up idle speed. At this point, the motor operated really well, but if you just drove slow in part throttle, it was obviously fat and boggy after a moment and transition to full throttle showed it had loaded up pretty good. Adjusting the HSN leaner makes it run too hot on full speed runs, and djusting the LSN much leaner makes the car run on when returning to idle and idle erratically, never loading up.
In pure race conditions, since you always blip a bit and keep the motor clean, it really doesn't do much, but it will getcha if you need a short take-off where you didn't get to keep it clean. This is a condition that I would just adjust out of a 3 needle carb, or at least improve. I'm hopeful that a 2057 will make this better.
05-23-2010 | 08:01 PM
#3417
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 121
From: little rock, AR
Well i finally had my first day out with the B5 in my truggy. I ran 8 tanks through it on the box at idle last week and was ready to hit the dirt. The first tank i did not tuch the needles from were it was during break-in wich i thought was a little on the fat side since the temps at idle were around 170-200. Only a couple of laps in the temps got to around 235-240 but still smokeing. The track was dry and slick and temp was 95 and humid so i decided to richen it up a little to keep temps from getting to high. after 2 more tanks the motor was SCREAMING FAST and temping at 212 after the 5 min qualifiers and still had 1/2 a tank of fuel left. needless to say i took TQ and the win. Motor ran great all day and never gave me any problems. Also still on the same glow plug that i used for breakin 97t. Thanks again Ron for an outstanding product as usual.
05-23-2010 | 08:16 PM
#3418
A lot of you have read my posts about the b5 and jp4 pipe. I wanted to chime in and note that I went out today on a completely different day, brand new 97t plug, and re-confirmed my belief that this pipe and motor are just a bad pair for good low to mid throttle operation. If you tune the LSN to idle well, it is really fat in the mid range. If you try to tune for good low/mid, at idle, the motor idles very erratically because it is so lean and will never load up at all.
For those who are curious, this was the tuning method I used when re-evaluating.
The first thing I do is get it 'a little rich on thebox', meaning I get it to a point on the box where I know it is close, but a bit rich on top/bottom when put on the ground. I do this before any full re-tune. This was a warm and humid day with a brand new 97t plug. First I warmed up the motor, richened all the needles till they were both obviously fat -- there was no top end to the motor and the motor would go fully loaded almost instantly when it came back to idle and rev up like a smoke machine if you sat for a few seconds. Next I tuned the HSN on the box till it cleaned out and didn't sound faster when I blipped the throttle on the box. I then tuned the LSN so that after cleaning out with a few good pulls of the throttle it would idle for about 5 seconds before loading up. At this point, it would high idle for a moment as well, then idle for around 5 seconds, then load up.
Next I tuned the high speed with repeated pulls back and fourth on the street to where it was just nearly at top speed and stable temp wise. Today, on a warm muggy day, that was in the 220-230 range. Next I adjusted the LSN so it would take around 3 seconds to come back from high idle, then around 15 more seconds to drop to a loaded up idle speed. At this point, the motor operated really well, but if you just drove slow in part throttle, it was obviously fat and boggy after a moment and transition to full throttle showed it had loaded up pretty good. Adjusting the HSN leaner makes it run too hot on full speed runs, and djusting the LSN much leaner makes the car run on when returning to idle and idle erratically, never loading up.
In pure race conditions, since you always blip a bit and keep the motor clean, it really doesn't do much, but it will getcha if you need a short take-off where you didn't get to keep it clean. This is a condition that I would just adjust out of a 3 needle carb, or at least improve. I'm hopeful that a 2057 will make this better.
For those who are curious, this was the tuning method I used when re-evaluating.
The first thing I do is get it 'a little rich on thebox', meaning I get it to a point on the box where I know it is close, but a bit rich on top/bottom when put on the ground. I do this before any full re-tune. This was a warm and humid day with a brand new 97t plug. First I warmed up the motor, richened all the needles till they were both obviously fat -- there was no top end to the motor and the motor would go fully loaded almost instantly when it came back to idle and rev up like a smoke machine if you sat for a few seconds. Next I tuned the HSN on the box till it cleaned out and didn't sound faster when I blipped the throttle on the box. I then tuned the LSN so that after cleaning out with a few good pulls of the throttle it would idle for about 5 seconds before loading up. At this point, it would high idle for a moment as well, then idle for around 5 seconds, then load up.
Next I tuned the high speed with repeated pulls back and fourth on the street to where it was just nearly at top speed and stable temp wise. Today, on a warm muggy day, that was in the 220-230 range. Next I adjusted the LSN so it would take around 3 seconds to come back from high idle, then around 15 more seconds to drop to a loaded up idle speed. At this point, the motor operated really well, but if you just drove slow in part throttle, it was obviously fat and boggy after a moment and transition to full throttle showed it had loaded up pretty good. Adjusting the HSN leaner makes it run too hot on full speed runs, and djusting the LSN much leaner makes the car run on when returning to idle and idle erratically, never loading up.
In pure race conditions, since you always blip a bit and keep the motor clean, it really doesn't do much, but it will getcha if you need a short take-off where you didn't get to keep it clean. This is a condition that I would just adjust out of a 3 needle carb, or at least improve. I'm hopeful that a 2057 will make this better.
Just a little info for you.
Mike Battalie sponsored driver for Werk's, Traxxas, Pro-Line and many more. I race with him just about everyweekend here in Tx. And on his buggy and truggy with the B5's he has been running JP4 pipe's with good success, small indoor track or a big out door track same pipe. Just wanted to share this info this is a good combo.
Thanks
Lance Plant
05-23-2010 | 08:57 PM
#3420
A lot of you have read my posts about the b5 and jp4 pipe. I wanted to chime in and note that I went out today on a completely different day, brand new 97t plug, and re-confirmed my belief that this pipe and motor are just a bad pair for good low to mid throttle operation. If you tune the LSN to idle well, it is really fat in the mid range. If you try to tune for good low/mid, at idle, the motor idles very erratically because it is so lean and will never load up at all.
For those who are curious, this was the tuning method I used when re-evaluating.
The first thing I do is get it 'a little rich on thebox', meaning I get it to a point on the box where I know it is close, but a bit rich on top/bottom when put on the ground. I do this before any full re-tune. This was a warm and humid day with a brand new 97t plug. First I warmed up the motor, richened all the needles till they were both obviously fat -- there was no top end to the motor and the motor would go fully loaded almost instantly when it came back to idle and rev up like a smoke machine if you sat for a few seconds. Next I tuned the HSN on the box till it cleaned out and didn't sound faster when I blipped the throttle on the box. I then tuned the LSN so that after cleaning out with a few good pulls of the throttle it would idle for about 5 seconds before loading up. At this point, it would high idle for a moment as well, then idle for around 5 seconds, then load up.
Next I tuned the high speed with repeated pulls back and fourth on the street to where it was just nearly at top speed and stable temp wise. Today, on a warm muggy day, that was in the 220-230 range. Next I adjusted the LSN so it would take around 3 seconds to come back from high idle, then around 15 more seconds to drop to a loaded up idle speed. At this point, the motor operated really well, but if you just drove slow in part throttle, it was obviously fat and boggy after a moment and transition to full throttle showed it had loaded up pretty good. Adjusting the HSN leaner makes it run too hot on full speed runs, and djusting the LSN much leaner makes the car run on when returning to idle and idle erratically, never loading up.
In pure race conditions, since you always blip a bit and keep the motor clean, it really doesn't do much, but it will getcha if you need a short take-off where you didn't get to keep it clean. This is a condition that I would just adjust out of a 3 needle carb, or at least improve. I'm hopeful that a 2057 will make this better.
For those who are curious, this was the tuning method I used when re-evaluating.
The first thing I do is get it 'a little rich on thebox', meaning I get it to a point on the box where I know it is close, but a bit rich on top/bottom when put on the ground. I do this before any full re-tune. This was a warm and humid day with a brand new 97t plug. First I warmed up the motor, richened all the needles till they were both obviously fat -- there was no top end to the motor and the motor would go fully loaded almost instantly when it came back to idle and rev up like a smoke machine if you sat for a few seconds. Next I tuned the HSN on the box till it cleaned out and didn't sound faster when I blipped the throttle on the box. I then tuned the LSN so that after cleaning out with a few good pulls of the throttle it would idle for about 5 seconds before loading up. At this point, it would high idle for a moment as well, then idle for around 5 seconds, then load up.
Next I tuned the high speed with repeated pulls back and fourth on the street to where it was just nearly at top speed and stable temp wise. Today, on a warm muggy day, that was in the 220-230 range. Next I adjusted the LSN so it would take around 3 seconds to come back from high idle, then around 15 more seconds to drop to a loaded up idle speed. At this point, the motor operated really well, but if you just drove slow in part throttle, it was obviously fat and boggy after a moment and transition to full throttle showed it had loaded up pretty good. Adjusting the HSN leaner makes it run too hot on full speed runs, and djusting the LSN much leaner makes the car run on when returning to idle and idle erratically, never loading up.
In pure race conditions, since you always blip a bit and keep the motor clean, it really doesn't do much, but it will getcha if you need a short take-off where you didn't get to keep it clean. This is a condition that I would just adjust out of a 3 needle carb, or at least improve. I'm hopeful that a 2057 will make this better.