Yeah, you're right, that is definitely information aquired through 'SkuttleButt' so it's validity is questionable.

Like I mentioned. it took a few tanks to acclimate but afterwards I was pretty impressed! I already have about 4 gallons of Byron's run through it! I didn't bring it up to full noise yet since I was only in the street! I'm heading to the track on Friday to dial it in! It's definitely a great lube package though and a distinct odor!

....sorry for cranking the lever on the Rumor Mill!

Hey Ron I have a question about your fuel. Alot of the guys I race with use your fuel also. Theres is a rootbeer brown color. I just got 4 gallons from a-main and mine is about the same color as Odonnells is. Why is that?

I found it to be more Yellow, than clear like O'donnell's! Did they add anything to their fuel...like castor oil?

I ran my first race after breaking it in. The motor is very impressive. Great bottom end and also a bunch on top! I was hoping it was going to perform like everyone was saying. Great motor! Thanks.

Nope. Right out of the carton.

It's from exposure to UV radiation. We mention this on the back of the label also but we use a realy, realy good anti-oxidant (rust inhibitor). It's the best that we could find but unfortunately it is photoreactive, meaning it darkens (just like film) when exposed to light or more specificaly the uv-radiation in light. So the more exposure it gets the darker the anti oxidant gets. It only composes about 2ppm of the mixture so it's a realy minute amount and when it darkens it does not change the protection of the lubricant mixture or the performance of the fuel in any way. Hope this helps
explain things a little, it's a little strange but put a squeeze bottle of fuel in the sun for a couple hours and you will see what I mean.

Regards,

Ron

Lol, please don't missunderstand what I was saying. I'm not questioning your product as frankly it looks like a well thought out, very high quality unit and I would say easily the best one on the market (and for that I congratulate you). Having an engineering background I was just questioning how one would quantify the ROI.

It's extreemely difficult with these type of engines to substantiate claims of increased engine life as there are factors that play a much larger role in engine wear than pre hearing an engine such as the state of tune, quality of air filter and lubrication package in the fuel. I will however say that I can see the potential benefits of using a device such as this for break in to expand the components as well as for improved or I guess I should say quicker heat saturation of the engine components (especially in colder climates) prior to races which will allow the tune of the engine to stabalize making it easier to optimize the needle settings in a short amount of time (like you would have in a traditional warm up). That is all that I was getting at. I would never knock a product especialy if I have never tried it. In this case I can easily say without a doubt that if I was looking for an engine heater I would not hesitate to pick one of these up as it's not even in the same league with the things that I have seen before which look like they were cobbled together in some ones garage.

This is how I bring my engines up to temp.
It is 12V and cost ownly 20 euro aprox 26 usd.
It gets my engine in 10 min up to aprox 60 C witch is on the low side but she starts like a dream even when tems are realy cold outside.

Lol, I've seen everything now...a blow dryer and a paper tube! I can understand the need to heat engines in Holland though, it does get a little cold there!

the guy i ordered my B5 from has them on backorder till end of april so im making a order to A Main tonight.
should i get the 2013 pipe or the 2057? its going in a buggy

2057 for sure that is what i ran in my buggy u get better gas milage and it smoother thru out the power range but it dosent have as much bottum as the 2013.

Depends on your style of driving... The 2013 makes insane power on the bottom of a already powerful bottom coming from the B5.

I honestly think you'd be ahead with the 2057 as most guys run that combo on buggy and the 2013 on a truggy setup.

I am currently running a 2013 on my buggy and no reaason I should be running that setup on my buggy (ask Mo he'll tell ya...LOL) but I am.

the 2057 will just be easier to drive as it smooths out the bottom end... But still it's up to you and what you prefer...

2013= TONS of bottom and harder to drive
2057= smooths out bottom and is easier to drive

-DC-

I haven't tried the 2057, but I heard its the choice for buggy and run the extender. From what I read it has better mileage and makes the power smoother.

I will be picking up one with my B5 purchase thats around the corner from my wife on my B-day at the end of this month.

I run the 2013 in mine (B7) and there is no pipe like it out there from what I have heard on the track. Insane pipe and you won't have any trouble telling which car is yours unless someone is running the same combo they have an amazing one of a kind sound. Makes tons of power on bottom and mid and I can tell my B7 I run it on hates me because our striaght isn't that long and it just starts to hit that stride at the end and I have to full brake sometimes if I'm heavy on it.
I run a steel fly wheel on mine as well and it's still nuts, and spools extremely fast.

well great... i go to put it in my shopping cart and the 2057 is on back order

Ron, do you know when they will be back in stock?

I just bolted on a 2057, after taking off the 2013 and that is spot on! The 2057 is simply easier to drive and still has a ton of punch. For a loose track the 2013 is just a bit much, I had all kinds of clutch setups to get it tamed down a bit. For me the 2057 is WAY better, I may break out the 2013 for a tacky track with huge jumps right out of a corner!