Go-Tech Engines Thread
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 139
Just received my 7 port yesterday, broke it in on my RC8 truggy.
Its got a insane amount of top end BUT my low end seems to be bogging or something.
Example :
Its got great punch off the line. But lets say when I come wide open throttle down the back straight, hit the first turn at medium speed and try to get back on the throttle again it does no respond, I have to give it a hand full of throttle to get it moving again.
I am guessing the clutch is engaging too early and bogging it down?
any ideas?
Its got a insane amount of top end BUT my low end seems to be bogging or something.
Example :
Its got great punch off the line. But lets say when I come wide open throttle down the back straight, hit the first turn at medium speed and try to get back on the throttle again it does no respond, I have to give it a hand full of throttle to get it moving again.
I am guessing the clutch is engaging too early and bogging it down?
any ideas?
You only got it yesterday and have ¨broken it in¨ already, and are now doing WOT passes down the back straight ?? How many tanks has it had through it ? My guess is it is still real tight, and is struggling to perform because of this. Maybe you ran it in on a bench, I don't know, but still seems a little early to be giving it the berries and expecting 1+ gallon performance.I would richen a bit top and bottom and take it easy for a few more tanks. Just my opinion.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 139
You only got it yesterday and have ¨broken it in¨ already, and are now doing WOT passes down the back straight ?? How many tanks has it had through it ? My guess is it is still real tight, and is struggling to perform because of this. Maybe you ran it in on a bench, I don't know, but still seems a little early to be giving it the berries and expecting 1+ gallon performance.I would richen a bit top and bottom and take it easy for a few more tanks. Just my opinion.
Also, its running at 190ish I dont think I want to lean it out anymore to bring the temp up.
Would taking off the copper head shim bring the temp up a little bit?
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,807
From: Virginia
Lean that low-end neddle screw some more.
That 7port should be rippin the tires off when
you peg the trigger from idle. Granted you have
the idle air gap set properly.
That 7port should be rippin the tires off when
you peg the trigger from idle. Granted you have
the idle air gap set properly.
Last edited by rageworks; 05-22-2010 at 07:20 PM. Reason: adding more input to the 700+ pages devoted to carb tuning

Like rage says, tweak it up. The 7 is a powerhouse.
Lean that puppy out.
190 degrees Fahrenheit is not hot enough, and it's definitely not broken in. You should be running at least 220-230 towards the end of the break in period. lean it out just a TAD, and you'll notice a huge difference. Also, if you're not preheating your engine, please keep an eye on the lower part of your conrod. cooler running temps, new motor, and starting cold may accelerate the wear on the lower end.
Shims. Take out the copper one and run two aluminum ones. This goes for all three GX engines.
Shims. Take out the copper one and run two aluminum ones. This goes for all three GX engines.
Just out of interest what clutch springs are you running.....I had endless problems tuning my first 7 port.went round and round in circles with the fuel/needle settings trying to get rid of exactly what you describe..brake for a corner or a slower part of the track and then open it up wide and it would just hesitate like a lean bog then scream once the revs built up a bit..eventually I swopped the 1.0 clutch springs for 1.1 springs and the engine was transformed. The same guys I was leaving mid straight but being caught by as I exited every corner I was lapping easily and they couldn't even touch me for acceleration or top speed. Before you lean out a pretty new engine too much I would check your springs and don't forget if they are 1.1mm but really old they lose their spring after a bit and engage earlier so fit NEW ones.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 139
Just out of interest what clutch springs are you running.....I had endless problems tuning my first 7 port.went round and round in circles with the fuel/needle settings trying to get rid of exactly what you describe..brake for a corner or a slower part of the track and then open it up wide and it would just hesitate like a lean bog then scream once the revs built up a bit..eventually I swopped the 1.0 clutch springs for 1.1 springs and the engine was transformed. The same guys I was leaving mid straight but being caught by as I exited every corner I was lapping easily and they couldn't even touch me for acceleration or top speed. Before you lean out a pretty new engine too much I would check your springs and don't forget if they are 1.1mm but really old they lose their spring after a bit and engage earlier so fit NEW ones.
I THINK they are 1.0. Its the black associated ones for the RC8. I ordered a few pairs of shoes and springs. Ill try em out and report back.
I leaned out the bottom a bit and its performing a little better now, with the temp hovering around 210-220
Awesome thanks for the heads up.
I THINK they are 1.0. Its the black associated ones for the RC8. I ordered a few pairs of shoes and springs. Ill try em out and report back.
I leaned out the bottom a bit and its performing a little better now, with the temp hovering around 210-220
I THINK they are 1.0. Its the black associated ones for the RC8. I ordered a few pairs of shoes and springs. Ill try em out and report back.
I leaned out the bottom a bit and its performing a little better now, with the temp hovering around 210-220
Have been using the Ascenency (JVD) 4 shoe clutch with 1.0 springs on my 7 Port which works very well, but the springs in these clutches are a bit stiffer than your normal 3 shoe variety.



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