Team Associated SC18....
#331
Tech Initiate
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 38
Is it just me, or do the stock dog-bones for the SC18 seem too short. They barely catch the end of the outdrives..and at the suspension extremes one pin is right on the edge. I know I have long shocks...but even when arms are level the dogbone pins are right on the edge...lots of "plunge" room remaining in the outdrive.
Last edited by Air-Jon; 05-05-2010 at 09:46 AM.
#334
Is it just me, or do the stock dog-bones for the SC18 seem too short. THe barely catch the end of the outdrives..and at the suspension extremes one pin is right on the edge. I know I have long shocks...but even when arms are level the dogbone pins are right on the edge...lots of "plunge" room remaining in the outdrive.
#335
Tech Rookie
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 13
Is it just me, or do the stock dog-bones for the SC18 seem too short. THe barely catch the end of the outdrives..and at the suspension extremes one pin is right on the edge. I know I have long shocks...but even when arms are level the dogbone pins are right on the edge...lots of "plunge" room remaining in the outdrive.
I did notice they seem kinda short, but I'm sure its more pronounced with the long shocks. I have the MIP CVD's on the way, I will see what kinda of changes those make. As for the long shocks, I've decided to stick with the stock length and go with Integy T2 shocks all around. You can still get a good amount of ride height out of the shortys, its enough considering its supposed to be low thats the point! And I just don't like all the stretch and binding with long shocks. It would make more sense to put the RC18B2 arms and shocks on. And CVD's and shocks towers to I guess. If your interested in the Integy shocks I'm gonna be doing a build thread once the wave of parts arrives. I'll do a decent review on them with plenty of pics.
Mike
#336
Here what it looks like my SC18's rear dogbones & outdrives with 3Racing RC18B/T Shocks.
I've MIP's C.D.S.'s on the front but the lenght isn't enough to "fill the gap" in the rear outdrive.
I've seen AE got some parts that might prevent some troubles,if that is the purpose.
http://order.aeteam.net/product_deta...Itemcode=21243
Sometimes i fuck up what i mean:sorry for my poor English knowledge gotta have some practice
I've MIP's C.D.S.'s on the front but the lenght isn't enough to "fill the gap" in the rear outdrive.
I've seen AE got some parts that might prevent some troubles,if that is the purpose.
http://order.aeteam.net/product_deta...Itemcode=21243
Sometimes i fuck up what i mean:sorry for my poor English knowledge gotta have some practice
#337
Here what it looks like my SC18's rear dogbones & outdrives with 3Racing RC18B/T Shocks.
I've MIP's C.D.S.'s on the front but the lenght isn't enough to "fill the gap" in the rear outdrive.
I've seen AE got some parts that might prevent some troubles,if that is the purpose.
http://order.aeteam.net/product_deta...Itemcode=21243
Sometimes i fuck up what i mean:sorry for my poor English knowledge gotta have some practice
I've MIP's C.D.S.'s on the front but the lenght isn't enough to "fill the gap" in the rear outdrive.
I've seen AE got some parts that might prevent some troubles,if that is the purpose.
http://order.aeteam.net/product_deta...Itemcode=21243
Sometimes i fuck up what i mean:sorry for my poor English knowledge gotta have some practice
Too much down travel. You will need to limit the shock or add some camber to the rear wheels to keep that axle in the diff. Too much camber will cause loss of traction tho.
#338
Tech Initiate
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 38
The long shocks are not the root of the problem. The axles are too short. When I put my short shocks back on...the axle pins still barley engage the outdrives...sit right on the outdrive chamfer. The suspension geometry has been done well..so there is very little "plunge" movement between drive-shaft and outdrive cup. The drive shafts could be another 1/16 inch longer no problem...and this would make the outdrives last much longer.
Yes the the long shocks add to the root problem.
I gave up and bought a T/B2 for the dirt...hopefully the drive-shafts are sized better on that model. SC18 will be converted to an R2 as it can't handle anything but the smoothest dirt track conditions.
Yes the the long shocks add to the root problem.
I gave up and bought a T/B2 for the dirt...hopefully the drive-shafts are sized better on that model. SC18 will be converted to an R2 as it can't handle anything but the smoothest dirt track conditions.
#339
Tech Rookie
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 13
So now that the SC18 has been driven quite a bit and had plenty of crashes, I have noticed alot of play in the steering. I tracked it down to the steering rack, it looks like the pin inside the supports has worn the away the plastic inside causing excess space and thus the play. I have two new sets on the way, I may try doing something different with one, and then put the other in if it doesn't work.
So have any of you experienced this problem? It seems like kind of a bad design if you ask me. I am guessing if they were to making it in aluminum that would help. Lemme hear what you guys have done about.
Mike
So have any of you experienced this problem? It seems like kind of a bad design if you ask me. I am guessing if they were to making it in aluminum that would help. Lemme hear what you guys have done about.
Mike
#340
Need Novak owners help to get my gear installed...
check my Q in the RC18B2 section
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7395925-post202.html
Thanx
check my Q in the RC18B2 section
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7395925-post202.html
Thanx
#341
Tech Rookie
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 8
From: Sydney
Hi Guys,
Very recently I decided to buy an SC18. Its a fun little car. Previously I've had a brushless e-revo. It was super fast but required acres of real estate. The sc18 is more fun as you can use it just about anywhere.
Anyway, as I am one of those people that likes to tinker and upgrade I was very interested reading about servo problems people are having (broken teeth etc). What interests me even more is the fact that going through many forums there does not appear to be many (if any) options out there to replace the stock AE servo with something more durable that fits right in. There are numerous mentions of drilling holes, cutting, trimming, making up home made servo savers, going to great lenghts to find hitec screws etc.
Is there really no servo option out there that simply fits straight in other than th estock servo that seems to be fairly fragile??
cheers
martymoose
Very recently I decided to buy an SC18. Its a fun little car. Previously I've had a brushless e-revo. It was super fast but required acres of real estate. The sc18 is more fun as you can use it just about anywhere.
Anyway, as I am one of those people that likes to tinker and upgrade I was very interested reading about servo problems people are having (broken teeth etc). What interests me even more is the fact that going through many forums there does not appear to be many (if any) options out there to replace the stock AE servo with something more durable that fits right in. There are numerous mentions of drilling holes, cutting, trimming, making up home made servo savers, going to great lenghts to find hitec screws etc.
Is there really no servo option out there that simply fits straight in other than th estock servo that seems to be fairly fragile??
cheers
martymoose
#342
Hi Guys,
Very recently I decided to buy an SC18. Its a fun little car. Previously I've had a brushless e-revo. It was super fast but required acres of real estate. The sc18 is more fun as you can use it just about anywhere.
Anyway, as I am one of those people that likes to tinker and upgrade I was very interested reading about servo problems people are having (broken teeth etc). What interests me even more is the fact that going through many forums there does not appear to be many (if any) options out there to replace the stock AE servo with something more durable that fits right in. There are numerous mentions of drilling holes, cutting, trimming, making up home made servo savers, going to great lenghts to find hitec screws etc.
Is there really no servo option out there that simply fits straight in other than th estock servo that seems to be fairly fragile??
cheers
martymoose
Very recently I decided to buy an SC18. Its a fun little car. Previously I've had a brushless e-revo. It was super fast but required acres of real estate. The sc18 is more fun as you can use it just about anywhere.
Anyway, as I am one of those people that likes to tinker and upgrade I was very interested reading about servo problems people are having (broken teeth etc). What interests me even more is the fact that going through many forums there does not appear to be many (if any) options out there to replace the stock AE servo with something more durable that fits right in. There are numerous mentions of drilling holes, cutting, trimming, making up home made servo savers, going to great lenghts to find hitec screws etc.
Is there really no servo option out there that simply fits straight in other than th estock servo that seems to be fairly fragile??
cheers
martymoose
#345
. because in malaysia 1/18 scale not so popular
so far this esc combo ok & i only running with nimh 1500mah battery & top speed around 35mph
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