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Old 05-12-2010 | 07:18 PM
  #3241  
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hey quad, once you burn those plugs up, try the WERKS #5 or #6 plugs... i'm using the 5's (i think) and they're awesome.
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Old 05-13-2010 | 05:30 AM
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This is true about the plugs...the werks plugs are awesome and last forever,
a number 5 probably the standard and you can also use a 6 if you want to get every last drop out of the engine, but seems to narrow the tuning window
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Old 05-13-2010 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by jjshbetz11
Just remember the hotter the plug the smaller the tuning window
I find the hotter the plug the broader the tuning window. The hotter plug is more tolerant of richer settings, especially on the bottom end. The risk of detonation on top end is greater.
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Old 05-13-2010 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Davidka
I find the hotter the plug the broader the tuning window. The hotter plug is more tolerant of richer settings, especially on the bottom end. The risk of detonation on top end is greater.
this is true the hotter the plug the GREATER the tuning window
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Old 05-13-2010 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 1fastguy1
this is true the hotter the plug the GREATER the tuning window
On the b5, I've had no reason to run anything besides a 97t, but on my v-spec, I found that a p5 would work, but would rich flame out way too easy, a p4 was perfect for me almost all the time, and a p3 was perfect except when it was hot and it would potentially detonate and pit my turbo head.
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Old 05-13-2010 | 04:17 PM
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Default Need some help guys

Need to know if a Werks Collari .30 standard connecting rod will work in my B5. It should if the stroke is the same correct ? I think the only difference in the 2 motors is the Bore. Ron if you read this please let me know. Also buy chance did you get that head out? Thanks in advance.......
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Old 05-13-2010 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by hdcruzer
Need to know if a Werks Collari .30 standard connecting rod will work in my B5. It should if the stroke is the same correct ? I think the only difference in the 2 motors is the Bore. Ron if you read this please let me know. Also buy chance did you get that head out? Thanks in advance.......
Head has not gone out yet. Regarding the rod, with all of the issues that you have already please do not try intermingling parts that don't belong together. The replacement rod is available at a-main, here is the link:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ting-Rod-B3-B5

I already sent you one for free a week or so ago that did not really need to be replaced so rather than looking at a rod being $40 and trying to find a way to save a couple of bucks by buying a part that is not made for the engine you use, look at it like you will end up getting 2 rods for the price of one and just order the right part for your engine. Using the right components and not trying to kibble together things will save you some serious headaches down the road.

Regards,

Ron
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Old 05-13-2010 | 05:03 PM
  #3248  
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Originally Posted by Werks
Head has not gone out yet. Regarding the rod, with all of the issues that you have already please do not try intermingling parts that don't belong together. The replacement rod is available at a-main, here is the link:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ting-Rod-B3-B5

I already sent you one for free a week or so ago that did not really need to be replaced so rather than looking at a rod being $40 and trying to find a way to save a couple of bucks by buying a part that is not made for the engine you use, look at it like you will end up getting 2 rods for the price of one and just order the right part for your engine. Using the right components and not trying to kibble together things will save you some serious headaches down the road.

Regards,

Ron
Ok Ron, Not a problem about the rod, I got to thinking like you just said and canceled the order. Ill just by one from a-main. I would be buying another B5, but my hours are really bad at work right now. So Im trying to keep the 2 I have, running on a budget.
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Old 05-13-2010 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by hdcruzer
Ok Ron, Not a problem about the rod, I got to thinking like you just said and canceled the order. Ill just by one from a-main. I would be buying another B5, but my hours are really bad at work right now. So Im trying to keep the 2 I have, running on a budget.
I heat you, times are tuff for everyone nowadays. This is the main reason that I made the B5 and priced it the way that I did, so that everyone can have access to a relatively low cost competition level racing motor.
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Old 05-13-2010 | 07:51 PM
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Well Im pretty happy now..... Busted out the 2010 tonight. I decided to go back to my 2035 pipe. Leaned out the bottom alot, leaned out the top a couple hours. This thing rips like it should now. I think I was running the bottom way to fat on it, always had the high low idle thing. Not any more. I nail it let off, drops right back to idle and will idle all day long now. Track opens up for practice Sat. So ill update after that.........
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Old 05-13-2010 | 09:02 PM
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just got 2010 b5 fully broken in and was wondering about where you guys have your needles at, I have a little bit of high to low idle going on(low end set rich) but not bad. Motor is running great, just curious to know where other poeple are at for comparison. I am at about 1/2 turn in from flush on bottom and full turn in on top, I am at 5,000ft elevation so I would expect my settings to be a bit leaner than others.
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Old 05-13-2010 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by lanmine657
just got 2010 b5 fully broken in and was wondering about where you guys have your needles at, I have a little bit of high to low idle going on(low end set rich) but not bad. Motor is running great, just curious to know where other poeple are at for comparison. I am at about 1/2 turn in from flush on bottom and full turn in on top, I am at 5,000ft elevation so I would expect my settings to be a bit leaner than others.
Ive got both needles about 2 and a half turns in from flush. I do the pinch test and idle comes up a little for a about 5 seconds and dies. I may still be able to go a little leaner on top but wont do anything with that until I hit the track Sat. Im in Ca. at sea level..... Im running about a half mm air gap.
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Old 05-14-2010 | 01:38 AM
  #3253  
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Ron,

I just bought my two B-5's from amain. I really look forward to running these engines. I won't be able to give you any feed back until about Sept because I had to ship them to my home billing address. A main aggrevates me with this but I understand completely why. One will be strictly for racing and the other for practice. I believe you practice like you would race or do whatever for real. Just my way. To be honest, I have no concerns at all, especially with your customer service. Thanks Ron.
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Old 05-14-2010 | 03:29 AM
  #3254  
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@werks

Do you know if the rod for the B3/B5 will work in some Siro-motors? Especially CLB3 or CLB7 or S24T.

Regards

Jürgen

P.s.: Nice motor running very good til know (1 gallon) tomorrow it will be raced first time in Germany.
P.P.s.: Will Werks bring an 24/25er motor?
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Old 05-14-2010 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by lanmine657
just got 2010 b5 fully broken in and was wondering about where you guys have your needles at, I have a little bit of high to low idle going on(low end set rich) but not bad. Motor is running great, just curious to know where other poeple are at for comparison. I am at about 1/2 turn in from flush on bottom and full turn in on top, I am at 5,000ft elevation so I would expect my settings to be a bit leaner than others.
needle settings are going to be COMPLETELY different where you are at.
and also probably different from one side of the country to the other.
plus I am sure you know the differences, plug,fuel,temp,clutch.ect.ect.
best top start them flush set idle gap, go with a smooth idle and blue smoke.
the B5 is plenty for any track and for any vehicle, but I am sure the needles are different for each.
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