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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

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Old 05-10-2010, 04:00 PM
  #1471  
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thanks for the posts guys. Yes adjust camber to eliminate coning. You are in the right range. I too like that 5 degree reactive caster block. I don't know about the green tires, but wear with the 13.5 is not very high with any tire.
John
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Old 05-10-2010, 05:59 PM
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Not to be too off topic. Just decided to ask this question in here as everyone seems very knowledgable.

At this time I run a standard single fan (40mm) cooler on my car but it doesn't seem to be cutting it for the high timing gamesmanship that happens at my track. High Grip lots of 180deg turns with 90-110deg track temp.

Has anyone found a good high performance cooler they can recommend for touring / pan car. At this time I am running around 175-190deg and getting tired of a stinky motors and demagnetizing rotors.
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Old 05-10-2010, 07:01 PM
  #1473  
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Originally Posted by Capt'N_Slow
Not to be too off topic. Just decided to ask this question in here as everyone seems very knowledgable.

At this time I run a standard single fan (40mm) cooler on my car but it doesn't seem to be cutting it for the high timing gamesmanship that happens at my track. High Grip lots of 180deg turns with 90-110deg track temp.

Has anyone found a good high performance cooler they can recommend for touring / pan car. At this time I am running around 175-190deg and getting tired of a stinky motors and demagnetizing rotors.

Acouple of the guys in my area are running liquid cooling in their cars. TCS Cooling is who makes them. Neat solution for a pan car.

Shawn.
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Old 05-10-2010, 07:25 PM
  #1474  
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Here is a fan cooled solution. The basis is an Integy motor cooler. It comes with a 30 mm fan which is underpowered and soon out of comission. I replaced the Fans with LRP fans which are powerfull for their 25 mm size. One is from a Worlds Cooling Kit. One is from a double fan unit made for the TC3. I skeletonized the aluminum frame to lose some uneeded weight. This system is on my Touring car. Amazingly I am getting by without motor cooling on my 3.5 powered wide pan. I have opened up some vents that exist on the Peugeot body shell. One is the roof vent. Two are actually clearance bumps for the side shocks. I opened these in the front. They work well although small because at times they draw 65 mph air. Cooling is most effective at the solder tabs and leads or into a vent at the solder tab end.

Here is a link to that liquid cooling. I have not tried it.
http://www.tcscooling.com/
Attached Thumbnails CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks-cooling-001.jpg  
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Old 05-11-2010, 12:45 AM
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thanks for your quick reply. It's good to know what is working in the field right now. Will need to go fan shopping.

making a 10.5t perform like a 6.5t has it's consequences.
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Old 05-12-2010, 12:10 PM
  #1476  
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Nevermind

Last edited by Foodie; 05-13-2010 at 01:58 AM.
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:56 AM
  #1477  
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Never heard they have motors also. Any Pictures?
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Old 05-13-2010, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Capt'N_Slow
... Will need to go fan shopping ...
yeah racing does a fan which you might be interested.

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-yea...0-p-27394.html

comes in a 25X25 as well.
they have adaptors to use a 30X30 fan on a heat sink which uses 25X25 sized fans. (a bit of the topic )
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Old 05-13-2010, 02:56 AM
  #1479  
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I tried to mount a fan ontop of the pod of my rc10l2 last year. It is really difficult as the fan will rub against the lemans body when the pod goes up and side ways. It rubbed the paint off the body at that spot. The lemans style bodies are just too low. It might work with GT bodies though. I haven't tried that. As of yet, with the newer esc software that got introduced the motor runs much cooler and it is way faster then before. I don't see a need to put a fan on top at the moment.

In the rules we are not allowed to put in extra holes in the body except for body mounts and entenna.
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Old 05-16-2010, 07:18 AM
  #1480  
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My LRP sxx TC spec died whilst using my JS Pro10 yesterday. What should I replace it with? I am using an X12 4.5.

I am considering the SPX8, what are your thoughts?
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Old 05-16-2010, 05:24 PM
  #1481  
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By all means the SPX8.

I do note that a fellow racer purchased a new SXX this last week with 750 amps per phase specification like the SPX8. I don't know if it is a change. I do know the early SXX TC editions were not up to the task of wide pan or mod TC. I'll let you guys know if it holds up.
john
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Old 05-16-2010, 10:52 PM
  #1482  
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I found this place for fans, lots of sizes at good prices

http://www.buyextras.com/dc5vfaforla...FRlbbQodpn0xLA

John
The car is almost ready for the South~West Tours All Star Shoutout next weekend. Just a few things left to do and it will be ready to hit the 'drome.

Steve
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Old 05-17-2010, 01:16 AM
  #1483  
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Originally Posted by John Stranahan
By all means the SPX8.

I do note that a fellow racer purchased a new SXX this last week with 750 amps per phase specification like the SPX8. I don't know if it is a change. I do know the early SXX TC editions were not up to the task of wide pan or mod TC. I'll let you guys know if it holds up.
john
Ordered the spx8. My sxx is also 750 amps.
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Old 05-17-2010, 02:01 AM
  #1484  
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John, I have just changed the setup of the rear shock plates as one of the first things I noticed was that there was only a small amount of rear travel. I have moved them up higher so the rear shocks have more travel as the nut on the side link used to hit the plate under heavy cornering.

I have also noted that in some of your pictures there is a supporting bolt next the the front bolt of the side links that gives the nerf wing more strength. This bolt is not installed in my chassis and was thinking of drilling the chassis to install it as the hole in the nerf wing is already there. The chassis is awsome on our sweeper. The only part that scuffs the ground is the bolt for the left body post, I think thicker nerf wings would solve this? No other part of the chassis even makes contact at the standard height settings.
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Old 05-17-2010, 02:33 AM
  #1485  
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John, I have just changed the setup of the rear shock plates as one of the first things I noticed was that there was only a small amount of rear travel. I have moved them up higher so the rear shocks have more travel as the nut on the side link used to hit the plate under heavy cornering.

I have also noted that in some of your pictures there is a supporting bolt next the the front bolt of the side links that gives the nerf wing more strength. This bolt is not installed in my chassis and was thinking of drilling the chassis to install it as the hole in the nerf wing is already there. The chassis is awsome on our sweeper. The only part that scuffs the ground is the bolt for the left body post, I think thicker nerf wings would solve this? No other part of the chassis even makes contact at the standard height settings.
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