i got my sc18 a couple of weeks back, i added the 13.5 mongoose also and mip cvds, and I did the "remove the tensioner" mod and it works groeat the two weeks I have raced it. i don't think it would do well at all on a 10th scale track but it works fine on carpet indoors and smoother tracks. fun so far

The SC18 is a fun vehicle for sure. In a week or so my LHS is going to finish up their outdoor Mini 1/18 - 1/16 off road track and we will be racing SC18s, Mini Slashs, Mini Revos & Mini LSTs. We will have several different classes so I can't wait!

quick questio. I am installing a bl system in my buddys sc18 for him. I am having a hard time getting the motor to mesh and not touch the belt. So i threw the stock motor back in and noticed that the stock motor with the correct mesh also rubs on the belt. Is this normal or am i doing something wrong with this thing? If there is no way to stop this from happening I dont think im going to spend my money on one of these.

Are you installing the pinion under the belt or inbetween the belt ?

It shouldnt rub on the belt.

I have tried both. what way should it go?

Heres my sc18 with the 1/10th wheels fitted using 12mm hexes.

Mike, how will your 6 degree caster blocks work?

Pinion goes below the belt

Nice... I've been following this thread while building my SC18 in hopes to convert it to a road car.

Will mini-t tires fit on sc18 rims?

It shouldn't rub on the belt, but it does, even stock. However, if you mount the motor a little more offset than stock it prevents it. I was able to do it without drilling holes since my motor had 3 hole patterns. I used one oval hole and one round hole on the motor mount plate. With the pinion more offset, the motor will be back farther on the spur gear, which also means it's lower, and doesn't rub. You may have to scrape a little of the lip off the chassis to clear it. I have done it with 2 brushless motors, worked fine both times.

thats a nice idea, did you see the my picture in the other thread. i also cant get a good gear mesh without touch the belt. on oval on normal hole.. ill give that a try and hope thats the answer for the heating problem.

Thanks, while you are at it, check to make sure your spur gear is not rubbing on the rear diff case, mine was rubbing slightly, causing drag. I scraped a little of the lip off the diff case. With that and the motor offset, it rolls free now, and I still have the belt tensioner in.

Received a pair of SC18's yesterday for my 5yr son and I to play with in the driveway and cul-de-sac. I was very impressed with these little trucks. Having only 1/8 nitro racing stuff for the better part of the past 10 years, it was so awesome to have something to run at home vs track only.

My son did very well and we only got to run 2 packs before it got dark. He's struggling to keep it straight but geez...for never driving anything RC, he was fantastic. I turned the throttle EPA way down and it was very easy for him to control.

On both runs, his pack dumped wayyyy sooner than mine. Likely do to his over use of the steering servo though I will swap the packs on our next run.

Great bang for the buck. I am going to strip out the stock radio on my truck and sell it. No sense using the stock system when I have an M11x.

My SC18 is running strong now. I probably have 10-20 hours of run time on it...not hard when the 2200 lipo lasts 40 minutes! Here are the improvements I made that I consider mandatory:

1. Replaced stock short shocks with RC18 long shocks (this will probably wear out your diff outdrives sooner...but makes the car so much more useable for off-road)
2. Installed NOVAK Mongoose 13.5 brushless set
3. Bored-out stock steel pinion to 1/8 inch to fit Mongoose BL motor
4. Implimented "Rosario-hole" in belt tunnel so now I can see pinion/spur mesh
5. Installed HS-65MG servo and and AE RC18 servo-saver for Hitec

Optional upgrades I have made:
MIP CVDs
Futaba 3-PMx (exponential and servo delay help a lot with controling these little cars)