Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY

No 2 R&P sets will shim exactly the same. Even trying to use the same shimming for two different sets WILL lead to issues. If you shim them correctly, I think you will find that they are all a bit different.

I personally shim mine with almost zero backlash. In fact I do shim them with zero backlash from the beginning and when they wear in, I re-shim them back to almost zero. You have to keep them really tight or they will blow out.

When shimming them like this, you will get that notchy feel at least in one spot. This is fine, and will wear in with time. As long as it doesn't lock up the notchy spot won't cause any problems. I also recommend using a good grease like Mobil 1 red bearing grease on the R&P.

Originally Posted by dnebout

When you drop the whole mess in the case with shims and all, do you have any side to side play when trying to move the outdrives to the left or the right.
Also, I think having the driveshaft as tight as possible to the pinion makes a big difference. The pinion should not move in or out. What are your thoughts on that?
I read somewhere there are aluminum cups (the half moon parts). Have you heard of these?

Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY

Losi sells aluminum gearbox bearing inserts(the half moon thingies) and yes I run them.

There shouldn't be ANY side to side play what so ever.

Keeping the driveshaft coupler tight to the bearing is crucial. The pinion shouldn't move in or out at all. If you have to you can use some shims to shim it tight.

Originally Posted by dnebout

What about the cases. Do you find that they stretch?

Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY

They do stretch a bit over time, which is why you need to keep an eye on shimming, and make sure you keep it tight. Even replacing the case every now and then is a good idea. Another big thing is, if you have a R&P go out, replace the case when you put new parts in. The heat/stress caused by the R&P failure tends to mess with the case a bit.

Originally Posted by dnebout

I hear you but you know, at the point a R&P go out and if the case did stretch (I don't know how you could actually tell unless you throw a set of calipers on it and compare it to a new one) you might as well buy a new assembly. Without actually looking it up, to buy the parts including the case is probably much money. Have you done the research? I haven't!

Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY

Not really sure what you are asking??? If you toast an R&P set, replace the gearbox. That is what I was saying.

Originally Posted by dnebout

What I'm saying is if you toast the R&P, and if you say replace the gearbox, wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a new assembly on ebay that would include the cases, outdrives, R&P, diff, shims, and bearings.

By the way, I just checked a new diff assembly off an RTR form eBay and you're right no backlash whatsoever. However, there is side to side action on the outdrives. About .5 mil. Would you say to shim this now before I use it?

Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY

It may be cheaper to just buy a chopped assembly. Not sure about that. I just buy parts and replace as needed.

There really shouldn't be any side to side play. If you really try to force it side to side, it may flex a little, but it shouldn't freely move side to side.

Originally Posted by dnebout

yeah it moves pretty easily side to side. Brand new! What do you think? Shim it to where it's tight side to side and make sure there's no backlash?

Originally Posted by Cannondale1974

Sorry if this has been covered (I'm sure it has) but how is the new V2 rear shock tower? All hype or really settles down the rear end? Does it lay the shocks down more?

If so, couldn't I just drill a couple new holes in my existing tower?


Thanks.

Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY

It actually stands the shocks up more. It's a great option! It does settle down the rear end a lot.

Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY

Yeah, I would shim it tight and make sure there is no backlash. Don't go so tight that it locks up though. Also make sure you are checking backlash, etc... when the two halves of the case are screwed together tightly. It will feel much different with everything all bolted together vs. the diff just sitting in the one half of the case.

Originally Posted by dnebout

Hey Jammin, that's a good point. You know, I was checking this new diff like I mentioned earlier, but it is out of the truck, which means it only has 2 screws through the cases. All 4 screws need to be put in with the rear router hinge pin brace bolted on to really check it all out. Right now there are only 2 screws holding it together. It might change once it's all torqued together.