63LikesThe New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine
04-09-2010 | 11:59 AM
#2686
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 966
From: Wauconda, IL
I got my B5 to do 12min 18sec twice in a row using a Orion 2013 pipe 30% fuel and P3 Plug with all stock Losi Gearing on a buggy on our outdoor track we have.
I set my Throttle to open just far enough to get me enough power to clear the biggest jump that we had out there since it always has more then enough power on the straights. I'm going to put a fuel filter on for this weekend and try and get in the 12 1/2 min mark.
I set my Throttle to open just far enough to get me enough power to clear the biggest jump that we had out there since it always has more then enough power on the straights. I'm going to put a fuel filter on for this weekend and try and get in the 12 1/2 min mark.
04-09-2010 | 12:17 PM
#2687
Lol, please don't missunderstand what I was saying. I'm not questioning your product as frankly it looks like a well thought out, very high quality unit and I would say easily the best one on the market (and for that I congratulate you). Having an engineering background I was just questioning how one would quantify the ROI.
It's extreemely difficult with these type of engines to substantiate claims of increased engine life as there are factors that play a much larger role in engine wear than pre hearing an engine such as the state of tune, quality of air filter and lubrication package in the fuel. I will however say that I can see the potential benefits of using a device such as this for break in to expand the components as well as for improved or I guess I should say quicker heat saturation of the engine components (especially in colder climates) prior to races which will allow the tune of the engine to stabalize making it easier to optimize the needle settings in a short amount of time (like you would have in a traditional warm up). That is all that I was getting at. I would never knock a product especialy if I have never tried it. In this case I can easily say without a doubt that if I was looking for an engine heater I would not hesitate to pick one of these up as it's not even in the same league with the things that I have seen before which look like they were cobbled together in some ones garage.
It's extreemely difficult with these type of engines to substantiate claims of increased engine life as there are factors that play a much larger role in engine wear than pre hearing an engine such as the state of tune, quality of air filter and lubrication package in the fuel. I will however say that I can see the potential benefits of using a device such as this for break in to expand the components as well as for improved or I guess I should say quicker heat saturation of the engine components (especially in colder climates) prior to races which will allow the tune of the engine to stabalize making it easier to optimize the needle settings in a short amount of time (like you would have in a traditional warm up). That is all that I was getting at. I would never knock a product especialy if I have never tried it. In this case I can easily say without a doubt that if I was looking for an engine heater I would not hesitate to pick one of these up as it's not even in the same league with the things that I have seen before which look like they were cobbled together in some ones garage.
04-09-2010 | 01:54 PM
#2688
ROI (return of investment) LOL. I'm sorry Ron, but when I hear that term (ROI) in anything related to any kind of racing or a hobby I have to laugh. I owned my own race team for 12 years, and I guess the closest I have come to a return of investment would be that my son races in the Nascar Nationwide Series, but more than ROI, it's a father being proud of his son.
04-09-2010 | 03:31 PM
#2690
ROI (return of investment) LOL. I'm sorry Ron, but when I hear that term (ROI) in anything related to any kind of racing or a hobby I have to laugh. I owned my own race team for 12 years, and I guess the closest I have come to a return of investment would be that my son races in the Nascar Nationwide Series, but more than ROI, it's a father being proud of his son.
04-09-2010 | 04:35 PM
#2691
B5 question
I am just building my new mugen 6t and assembled the mugen clutch on my new B5. The 6T instruction manual shows putting a 7x14x0.5 washer/shim behind the collet which is supplied with the kit. I have never seen a large diameter shim like that used and wondered if I should remove it. I am more concerned about my B5's front bearing. What do you think? out or in?
Thanks
I am just building my new mugen 6t and assembled the mugen clutch on my new B5. The 6T instruction manual shows putting a 7x14x0.5 washer/shim behind the collet which is supplied with the kit. I have never seen a large diameter shim like that used and wondered if I should remove it. I am more concerned about my B5's front bearing. What do you think? out or in?
Thanks
04-09-2010 | 04:35 PM
#2692
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 8,692
My own dabble in racing is sitting in my garage and Im tempted to shed a tear every time I walk by it thinking about all of the money that I have invested. Having said that though with these little cars and as a business owner that makes products for them I do think about peoples ROI or maybe we should say bang for the buck. This is the whole reason that there is a thread in existence discussing a product like the B5. It was made to give the consumers what is in my oppinion the best bang for their buck possible, and I think that we have succeded. The days of $350-$400 dollar + engines are in my oppinion numbered. Why because people expect more for their money especially in the current economic situation so from my perspective (which may be completely wrong) people are looking at their ROI when making purchasing decisions. In any case just my perspective on things be it correct or not.
1+ the high dollar engines days are numbered.
04-09-2010 | 04:41 PM
#2693
B5 question
I am just building my new mugen 6t and assembled the mugen clutch on my new B5. The 6T instruction manual shows putting a 7x14x0.5 washer/shim behind the collet which is supplied with the kit. I have never seen a large diameter shim like that used and wondered if I should remove it. I am more concerned about my B5's front bearing. What do you think? out or in?
Thanks
I am just building my new mugen 6t and assembled the mugen clutch on my new B5. The 6T instruction manual shows putting a 7x14x0.5 washer/shim behind the collet which is supplied with the kit. I have never seen a large diameter shim like that used and wondered if I should remove it. I am more concerned about my B5's front bearing. What do you think? out or in?
Thanks
I'm very surprised Mugen would suggest that!
It will tear the front bearing seal to shreds. You need a shim that is no larger than the inner bearing race.
04-09-2010 | 04:49 PM
#2694
04-09-2010 | 05:31 PM
#2695
Usually not. Only if you are having clearance issues with the flywheel(like rubbing the front of the block) or if you need to shim the flywheel out some to get proper alignment/clearance in the chassis. Otherwise you don't need it.
04-09-2010 | 05:35 PM
#2696
04-10-2010 | 08:23 AM
#2698
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 587
TYpically I can see about 1 minute more runtime with the 2057. As the other guys were saying a lot of runtime is how you drive in your track conditions. I do not limit my throttle and I use the stock restrictor. BUt if you havent mastered your throttle control yet the limiting your throttle,smaller restrictor and 2057 pipe. In a sense helps do it for you. The 2057 does get better mileage, but a lot of it also it is that is is smoother on the bottom making it more forgiving to throttle burst's, keeping wheel spin down making for better runtime and less wasted fuel and traction.
But Still I will switch pipes depending what I want, and the conditions. I can not say that the 2013 or 2057 is better than the other. They are both great pipes and they completly transform the power band of the WERKS engines, so you can pick the feel you want which is a very nice option.
