Silly question maybe but are you using the Losi collet that comes with the kit?
if not you need to be

try putting a few shims between the flywheel and the motor then see if it stops rubbing. the collet is probably worn enough where the flywheel is rubbing on the front of the case seen that a few times hope this helps, worth a try!

I need a little help with my setup I have an 8t 2.0 electric and I have a couple issues. My setup is stock out of the box race roller. I set front toe out to about 2+ degrees as it came with about 8+ also went to purple rear springs to achive reccomended ride height of 38 front and 42 rear also changed center diff to 20k as the 10k with brushless just unloads the front so much. This did not seem to really change anything except better acceleration.
What I am looking for is more on power steering as it pushes more than I would like also when I enter corner off power I could use more rear traction as it has good turn in but tends to have the tail end rotate a bit too much. also I think overall the suspension is just too stiff after I set the ride height both with the gray or purple rear and stock black fronts but with the black front and gray rear it takes alot of preload to get ride height as manual recomends. Let me know what you think, I am sure that some will mention the heavy center diff but it did not really change much for my setup so I would like to try other changes before making a change to this part of setup.

It maybe fine to have the purple springs on the rear if they are stiffer then the greys because the electric is heavier then gas. The V2 rear tower is a lot better for the truck also. For on-power steering, try the V2 tower with the shocks on the outer hole. Try the low inside rear camber link on the tower and inside hole on the rear hub. You will need to cut the camber rods shorter or buy another set of front rods as they are shorter. Then put on a 2.0mm rear sway bar.
You will have to play around with diff oils F and center to help with the ballooning. My suggestion is that you probably have way too much motor and/or too much throttle input.

Thanks that is great input.

Is this a new truck or used? If it has been driven already on the track or backyard, check the rear hinge pins inner/outer. Make sure they are clean and the hinge pin holes are clean. That can cause binding and the rear will not move freely.

I'm looking for arm guards or mud guards for my 8T 2.0 and can't seem to find them. Does anyone know where I can find them?

Supposedly DE Racing is going to make them soon. There are none on the market currently.

Not true one guy sells them off ebay for 8t 2.0

I used the mugen mbx6t mud guards and they work pretty well. I am waiting fir the de ones to be released. The de 2.0 buggy ones fit you just have to drill a hole in the arm. Same thing with the mugenn ones. The mugen ones come with the chassis side mud guards.

Anybody have any input on wheel hexes that have a little less slop? I am still running the rtr ones and want to upgrade them.

Well yeah, but those just look like hand cut plastic from a place like Tap Plastics and not molded to shape like DE Racing's.

Yeah I was using the losi collet with a shim behind it. I just reinstalled it and the binding went away.

My mud guards....

i agree with donny def need to stiffin up the truck cause the weight maybe 2.5 and one step heaver rear spring. i run the outer hole on the new tower and inside lower on the camber and b on the hub with the 2.3 bar.. but what donny said with make the truck feel more like a buggy