John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

At 28 inch-pound the M2 pin had a permanent bend in it so I considered it failed and stopped the test. I did not try 30 inch-pound. It did not break with this slight bend. You have to move the top of the pin over about .145 inch before it is permanently bent.

The M42 pin went up to 38 inch-pound before it had a permanent bend so it's quite a bit stronger than the M2 and almost twice as strong as the BRP pin.

Titanium is weaker than steel. It should be used where strength is less important and lightness is desired. On a TC3 I would not use Titanium on the inner A-arm hinge pins. In bending I would guess titanium is about 1/3 less stiff than M42 steel.

elvo

I used to make my own hinge pins for my TC3 out of piano wire. Worked like a charm.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

I had a sample of 3/32 piano wire on hand.

Piano Wire went 20 inch-pounds with the same test.

Just tested it. It is a bit more flexible and not quite as strong as the other steels that I tested earlier.

I noticed in a web search that drill rod is available in A7 tool steel as well. If anyone has a sample in 3/32 size. Send it my way.

I tested additional samples of the pins and got similar results. One of the M42 pins exploded spectacularly all across the room in pieces rather than take on a .005 inch bend. It had reached 40 inch-pound previous to this.

The VGT DB pins which test similar to the M42 pins have been tested extensively in the TC3 in the Dallas area on the track and have worked out very well.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

John,

The latest version of the Warpspeed Demon comes with adjustable wheelbase with very long rear hingepins cut from drill blank by Vic. After about 14 battery packs (~320+ laps) in racing conditions on carpet-nothing bent or shattered (knock on wood). HIngepins and hingepin blocks and arms all in perfect shape. I dont know the specs on the rod, but it is tough!!! Very shiny and Vic says its very tough to cut.

Ray

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

The Dremel Router Base in the photo below is an inexpensive option for Dremel tool. You can use this base to install a motor mount strap which is shown in the photo below and discussed previosly in this thread (on page 3 or use the link below). The hand built strap is on top of the back of the chassis. When you rout the slot for the strap and install it, you will remove the heat warpage from the chassis which tends to lift the right rear corner of the chassis. The dremel base allows you to do this mod without a milling machine. Mark the chassis, attach a straight edge to the chassis with clamps and a small square or block. Rout out the slot. The dremmel is shown with a 1/4 inch router bit. You can use a similar setup to neatly extend the battery slots. You can also use the router base on the top side to rout out at least part of frame stiffener to a controlled depth to move the battery toward the center, if you wish. This will help with side to side weight balance when running the heavier batteries.

Motor Mount Strap

racingdc9

John,

It's Tommy from Reflex. How have you been? I'm getting back into RC and of course electric onroad. You been to Luna's track on HWY6? I plan on going there for practicing, but that's it, no racing, i'll probably go to Dallas for carpet racing now and then. PM me. Keep in touch.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Tommy-Good to hear from you. I have been to Lunatic Hobbies. Ordered some parts there. Not racing at the moment either. Just finished writing another book I'm tinkering with the TC3 again now.

wazza

iTrader: (8)

hey fellas ive got a tc3 fitted tamiya threaded shocks car works well but ive found my friend runs a 30 rollout with his xray and i run 30 he leaves me for dead on the straights and has heaps more punch we have same motors good batteries what i would like to know is any tricks or is this normal car seems to be ok on same track wheni take my roll out down to about26 27 but the manaul says 1 tooth up or down im running 25 pin 72 spur ,,,,....also what do i grind out to make car spin more free? any help appreiated...
oh is the tc4 a sloppy car as inplay in joints as i ve just got the 3 and do love the way it handles but i heard 3 is a better car
is your stock class 23 turn or 27 turn it does nt say in the manual thanx waz

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

wazza- A couple of things to check. Make sure that the pinions in the diffs have play. grab an outdrive and rotate the input shaft cup by hand, you should be able to feel some play in the pinion. If not remove a pinion shim from inside the case. Check this play all around the ring gear to make sure you have play all around. Wheel bearings are easily damaged and slow the car. Remove the wheel bearings and put them on a pencil point spin the outer race by hand. You should not feel any grit or racheting type action. If so replace the bearings. The drive line on this car can be made to spin for about 30 seconds with the motor pinion off with techniques discussed in this thread. You lap times are only helped a little by removing grease and oiling the bearings. I would stick with grease for club racing.
In my experience the belt cars are a little faster on the straight than a shaft car. This has to do with balance of the rotating parts, I believe. The shaft car is faster out of the corners though to more than make up for this if there is enough traction available.
We use a 27 turn motor for stock here. There is also a 19 turn class sometimes.

mush104

what are the best things to do to a ft tc3, It already has the batteries moved to the center.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

I was running the TC3, the subject of this thread recently on a dusty oudoor track. One of the things that was agravating was the steering linkage was always collecting crud which made it not return to center well. You can install the Nitro TC3 or TC4 steering linkage by drilling and countesinking two holes. Possibly removing some bracing. Another racer might overlay his TC4 to accurately position the holes. Not really neccesary on a cleaner track. Just clean the slot where the bearings ride with the back side of an X-acto knife. Not much else to do. Its a good car. You can skim through this thread for other tips. Its not as long as the TC3 thread.

civic619

Aside from the Battery tray mod, is there anything else that can be done the TC3 Chassis for improvement?

A link to a website would be great!

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

civic619-You can also add Nitro TC3 steering. See the post right above yours. Another way to go is with the BMI graphite chassis. This will solve the side to side balance problem that the center rib mod solves and also solve the chassis warp problem from a hot motor that tends to pull the right rear of the chassis upward messing up the tweak.



http://www.bmiracing.com/products_ae.htm

there is also a fix for this warping problem a few pages earlier in this thread, it involves making a part though.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...rap#post257262

maxxman101

iTrader: (9)

will the composite cvd bones handle a brushless system? the gtb 4.5

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

The composite bones are a good match to a stock motor in the rear. If you use a one-way or locked diff the pins will tend to tear out of the composite cups on a regular basis even in stock on the front. I would use steel front CVD's and aluminum rear for a GTB 4.5. The oversized bones from the FTTC4 will hold up better but will still be a little weak at the pin holes for mod motor racing up front. This motor should be quite fast. I run the 6.5 at present. It's fast.