Seems like yet another way to waste money to me. I mean yeah it looks cool, and could possible stop some dirt from getting to the bearing. The other thing it could do is trap dirt between itself and the bearing, and tear the seal to bits. IMO just use a double sealed bearing like a TKO ceramic. With 2 seals, not too much dirt can make its way into the engine.

Could... but unlikely! It is very tight to the case and it sits pretty deep. If you notice, you can't see any of the milling that is on the front of the engine, just to give you a reference on how deep it covers.

Got my Werks b5 from amain today and it looks amazing! Got it all mounted in the car and should get around to breaking it in this weekend. I'm still not sure about which method to use though. Everybody here locally told me to use the heat cycle method, but Ron has a different method posted in here. Anybody have strong opinions for one over the other?

If you use Ron's method and run into issues, you'll have a dog in the fight...

Cant imagine he'd steer you wrong.

I did the heat cycle method for mine and it has a lot of pinch still. But i guess its still a new motor with only 2 gallons on it. When i purchase my next B5 i want to try the method Ron suggested, just to compare how they do in the long run.

I haven't used Ron's method yet so I can't really compare, but from my reading it, it sounds very good. I like the fact that you really can't do anything wrong with it as he has explained it and listed settings in detail. I would go with that one. Especially since it's the preferred method for the company's owner. In fact I think I will use it for my new B5. With that said, the heat cycle method is solid as well. Go with what you feel comfortable with.

Sounds like Ron's method loses the pinch a lot sooner. Pinch only hurts performance.

Agreed! I when people brag about their engine having "tons of pinch still". Metal pinch is nothing to brag about. Compression yes.

When it comes to break in there realy is no right or wrong. The bestsystem is the one that works best for you. After all they all acomplis the same thing, basicaly wearing your engine in. I recommend the system that I do because it is gentle on the engine and at the same time basically allows you to tune your engine properly at the same time, it's kinda a no brainer. Some people prefer heat cycle methods but my concern about that is if you are ideling an engine at 200 degrees, how lean is it actualy? In my oppinion probably too lean. Reality of the matter is that even on a fully broken in engine, I highly doubt that I would ever have it tuned so lean that I would see 200 degrees on the box! If I did that would probably equate to 250 or so under load and to me that is too lean!

What pipe are you going to use ?

Werks 2013.

Good choice Koby. I've been running that pipe on mine. I am going to try the 2057 also.

12 more tanks for break in? Mine was broke in after 2 tanks and it was all tuned up by about the eighth tank. About a half gallon. I have now put 5 gallons through, 80% of it racing and the other 20% practicing and not a problem yet. Its only on its third plug. These things are practically ready to go from the box. Im with big nasty. Race it, thats what you bought it for......

I totally agree with you. You dont want pinch unless you you dont like you con rod. Compression is what its all about........

Yeah. I think it's probably going into my truggy so I figured the 2013 would be a better fit(more bottom end). Plus nothing beats the sound of a 2013!