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http://tqracing.com/sensor.htm
i think they are all the same. heres what i use
some of the best. very flexible. i use these and his wire to
i think they are all the same. heres what i use
some of the best. very flexible. i use these and his wire to

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From: Antwerp, Belgium (Europe)
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This will be my first pro-painted body YEAAAHH

Thanks,
Erik
Trev
@carcrazy699
If you wil be running NiMh you don't need them.
The Novak is very big and has a lipo cutt-off. You already can do lipo cutt-off with your Tekin RS if you want. This is only possible with the higher software version. Not sure where it started, but v203 has it.
If you wil be running NiMh you don't need them.
The Novak is very big and has a lipo cutt-off. You already can do lipo cutt-off with your Tekin RS if you want. This is only possible with the higher software version. Not sure where it started, but v203 has it.
I recently used a Novak booster but it would not work with the latest 203 S Pro. I had to uninstall the 203 software, and use the previous version just to get it to work. Since then, I have bought a TQ booster and have had no problems with it at all. Cheers.
How does the angle of the turnbuckles from the servo, to the knuckles correspond to feel in steering? With running a flat servo, I guess more bump steer is produce than running a angled servo, mostly because a flat servo has more of a incline starting at the top with the horn with the turnbuckles, than a angled servo. Is that right so far?
So would shimming 1.5mm under the ballstud on the knuckles to produce less turnbuckle inclined, almost parallel to the chassis, produce a more linear feel with ackerman, and almost be a balance between a flat and angled servo? thanks.
So would shimming 1.5mm under the ballstud on the knuckles to produce less turnbuckle inclined, almost parallel to the chassis, produce a more linear feel with ackerman, and almost be a balance between a flat and angled servo? thanks.
Last edited by Mark506; 03-13-2010 at 10:26 AM.
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From: sydney australia
u need to fill the shock up so there is no air in the shock itself. Once shock has been filled pump the piston a few times to make sure there is no air trapped under it. When fitting the top plate and oring make sure the plate is pushed all the way in then push the oring in as well. the oring should be pretty much flush with the top of the shock body. Fit cap making sure its not cross threaded
u need to fill the shock up so there is no air in the shock itself. Once shock has been filled pump the piston a few times to make sure there is no air trapped under it. When fitting the top plate and oring make sure the plate is pushed all the way in then push the oring in as well. the oring should be pretty much flush with the top of the shock body. Fit cap making sure its not cross threaded



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