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Old 03-12-2010 | 06:54 PM
  #33736  
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How fast are these cars using going when carpet racing?
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Old 03-12-2010 | 06:56 PM
  #33737  
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Originally Posted by buffalobill989
http://tqracing.com/sensor.htm
i think they are all the same. heres what i use
some of the best. very flexible. i use these and his wire to
Thanks! So I don't need to specify motor and ESC, just the length?
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Old 03-12-2010 | 11:58 PM
  #33738  
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Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim
stical, I replied to all the pms, thank you for your interest!


lmk

...Jim
W.E.D.
www.wedjim.com
Hi Jim,

PM replied and payment sent.

This will be my first pro-painted body YEAAAHH

Thanks,
Erik
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Old 03-13-2010 | 01:31 AM
  #33739  
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Originally Posted by carcrazy699
hey guys thinking of running a 12th scale. i have the tekin rs esc and was woundering if i stil need to get that smart boost from novak to run
Don't get the Novak booster. The LiPo cutoff is set too high. Get the TQ booster or better the RC Dynamics one from the UK (www.rcdynamics.co.uk) which has better performance. Neither have a LiPo cutoff but they are not really needed if running stock classes.

Trev
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Old 03-13-2010 | 02:25 AM
  #33740  
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@carcrazy699

If you wil be running NiMh you don't need them.
The Novak is very big and has a lipo cutt-off. You already can do lipo cutt-off with your Tekin RS if you want. This is only possible with the higher software version. Not sure where it started, but v203 has it.
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Old 03-13-2010 | 08:26 AM
  #33741  
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Originally Posted by kk4hg
Thanks! So I don't need to specify motor and ESC, just the length?
yes, brushless sensors all use the same connector.
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Old 03-13-2010 | 10:04 AM
  #33742  
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I recently used a Novak booster but it would not work with the latest 203 S Pro. I had to uninstall the 203 software, and use the previous version just to get it to work. Since then, I have bought a TQ booster and have had no problems with it at all. Cheers.
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Old 03-13-2010 | 10:15 AM
  #33743  
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How does the angle of the turnbuckles from the servo, to the knuckles correspond to feel in steering? With running a flat servo, I guess more bump steer is produce than running a angled servo, mostly because a flat servo has more of a incline starting at the top with the horn with the turnbuckles, than a angled servo. Is that right so far?

So would shimming 1.5mm under the ballstud on the knuckles to produce less turnbuckle inclined, almost parallel to the chassis, produce a more linear feel with ackerman, and almost be a balance between a flat and angled servo? thanks.

Last edited by Mark506; 03-13-2010 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 03-13-2010 | 10:23 AM
  #33744  
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Originally Posted by Mark506
almost Parrnell to the chassis
I assume you meant "parallel to the chassis"?
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Old 03-13-2010 | 10:27 AM
  #33745  
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Originally Posted by CarbonJoe
I assume you meant "parallel to the chassis"?
Yes, fixed, thanks
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Old 03-13-2010 | 05:50 PM
  #33746  
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.

Last edited by Josh Keller; 03-14-2010 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 03-13-2010 | 07:29 PM
  #33747  
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Default 1/12 Newb ?

Getting ready to build an Assoc. 12R5. Can't see where it says how much oil to put in the two shocks...
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Old 03-13-2010 | 10:32 PM
  #33748  
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never mind, read that wrong.
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Old 03-13-2010 | 10:36 PM
  #33749  
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Originally Posted by kk4hg
Getting ready to build an Assoc. 12R5. Can't see where it says how much oil to put in the two shocks...
u need to fill the shock up so there is no air in the shock itself. Once shock has been filled pump the piston a few times to make sure there is no air trapped under it. When fitting the top plate and oring make sure the plate is pushed all the way in then push the oring in as well. the oring should be pretty much flush with the top of the shock body. Fit cap making sure its not cross threaded
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Old 03-13-2010 | 10:51 PM
  #33750  
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Originally Posted by dangles
u need to fill the shock up so there is no air in the shock itself. Once shock has been filled pump the piston a few times to make sure there is no air trapped under it. When fitting the top plate and oring make sure the plate is pushed all the way in then push the oring in as well. the oring should be pretty much flush with the top of the shock body. Fit cap making sure its not cross threaded
Thanks, mate!
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