Are you running the 2010 carb or the older version. If its the 2010 carb it tunes a lot differnt. It runs way leaner than the older version. If its the 2010 your way fat thats why it will run cold and not after it warms up. You want no gap at Idle with the restictor in. At least 2 turns in on the high and at least a turn and a half in on the low from flush. Start here and tune from there.

The settings I have are hs- 1 1/2 turn in. Ls 1/2 To 1 turn in. About 1mm gap on idle. All other settings I've tried. And what you all told me it Wont start or run. It seems to run good with the glow started connected. But after taking it off. I have to keep a small of throttle on. And when I get to over 3/4 to full Throttle it seems to run out of fuel"choke out". And when it does top out it dies as soon as I get off the throttle? I'm using odonnell 97t plug. I thought the plug went bad. I replaced it with another. And same outcome? Amain recommends this plug... The hottest I've seen the motor get was around 235. ???

just go back to my previous post and do what I mentioned. If that don't work, start checking for air leaks. To me with the plug problems, sounds like your running lean on the high end. Don't know where you are located, but when it's cold outside you have to run with a fat top end. With a idle gap that big you are probally compensating with a fat low end also, thus the plug problems.

Still sounds like it's too rich!

You say you leaned it out to about flush after your initial break in! Personally, I always start an engine up the first time with the needles flush. I think by the time I got to the track I was already 1 turn in, roughly.

I would only be speculating of course, but it sounds like you may have had a cold break-in! I only run it super rich for a few minutes to flush it out! having your engine spitting out loads of unburnt fuel for anything longer, isn't really necessary. It just stresses the con-rod trying to compress an overabundance of fuel! I use a break in bench so I can keep a heat gun on it to keep it up to temp while it's that rich.

Lean it out on the HSN a little more and see how it acts at mid to top then work on your idle!

x2 - tough to diagnose via post, but I would lean it. It sounds like a tune issue.

If I remember right around tank/heat cycle 15-18 my b5 seemed to actually "break in"...officially... and the tune changed drastically on that one lap. It went from being decently tuned, running just slightly rich since I was taking it easy, to being whale-blubber-sumo-wrestler fat with no power. 15-18 heat cycles for me is probably close to 3/4 gallon, which is where you're at...

Re-tuned and it's been super consistent ever since.

Let me start off by thanking you for picking up one of our engines. You asked about our warranty in one of our previous posts and to answer you we warranty all of our engines against manufacturers defect. So if there is anything wrong with your engine we will repair and/or replace it under warranty. Having said that the issue that you are describing sounds like it is totaly a tuning related problem. So.... to start with:

Based on your descriptions above, if you have a 1mm air gap that means there is a lot of air flowing into the engine at idle. To compensate for this you logicaly have to dump a lot of fuel into it, this means that you LS is going to be on therich side. This can also be substantiated by when you say that the engine idles when you have the glow plug igniter attached but dies when you remove it. This happens because there is so much fuel flowing through the engine that it extinguishes the plug.

Then you say that you have nit had the engine over 235 degrees but you also say that you can not get over 3/4 throttel before it cuts out. If you can't get over 3/4 throttel and are already seeing 235 degrees then logic indicates that your way, way lean on your HS because thatnks a temp that you should only be seeing at full race tune and definarely not if you are basicaly still in essence breaking in your engine (as in you only have 12 or so tanks through it)!

So.... how to get things back in whack and your engine running normaly? We'll start by reducing your air gap with the idle stop screw to around .5 mm or a little less. Then set your LS needle to flush and you HS needle to flush also. Now fire up your engine and blip the throttel for a few minutes to heat up the case and chassis. Now close the throttel and let the engine come back to idle and see how it does. If the idle is low and then dies out your LS needle is rich, (do not touch the idle stop screw!) lean out the LS a couple hours, blip the throttle, let it come back to idle and see how it is now and re-adjust if needed. If the idle is too high, richen a few hrs, blip throttle, let come to idle etc. etc. etc. Adjust using the above system until you get a smooth, steady idle. For the momen you LS needle is now set and does not need tone touched.

Now we are going to work on the HS. Warm up the engineand then do a fast lap on the track. Do you have enough top? If not lean the HS 1-2 hrs and then do another lap. When you come back in again you will notice that your idle is now a little faster, richen the LS slightly to compensate until you have a smooth, steady idle again. Was the top fast enough? If not keep on leaning 1-2 hrs each lap until you get the top or see a 200-235'ish temp. Remember every time that you lean the HS needle your idle will raise slightly and to offset this you will need to richen your LS slightly to offset this.

Onse you have the top set using the above and have done the finaly slight adjustment to you LS to get your idle right you are done. Go race andhave fun. Try to keep I. Mind that tuning an engine is only as difficult as you make it. If you break things down to the basics like I'm doing above it's realy simple, your engine basicaly tells you what to do. I've writen these tuning tips on this thread several times before, if you guys get out of whack please do not hesitate to flip back through this thread and give some of the tips a shot!

Chad, give these thing a shot and I'm sure you will find that it takes care of everything. Again based on what you are describing there is nothing wrong with your engine and definarely anything that would stem from a warranty/manufacturing related issues. You are simply way off on tune, follow the above and it should get you to where you need to be.

Regards,

Ron

My appolagies for the typo's words stuck together and all the other wired stuff that seems to happen when you type things up on the iPhone like I did above lol!

hey ron thanks for a great motor!! i just raced my first race with this new mill after a 10 tank heat cycle break-in ( still not a full race tune) and its a screamer!!!! i have a thunder tiger 2035 pipeset with it and a mugen 3 shoe clutch and this thing just rips everywhere!!! the bottomend is awesome!!!!! even still fat and somewhat still in late breakin stages i was seeing at least 9 minute run times in a mugen mbx6t on a small technical track!!! THANKS AGAIN!!!!

Thank you, glad that you are liking the engine and it's performance! If you get a chance try out a 2013. I think that you will be pleasently surprised by the increase in performance that you see over the pipe that you are runnin now ;-)

Can I just add tht the info Ron just gave about tuning is spot on... Doing as he said will get you spot on. This mill is a breeze to tune. I previsouly was running a GRP tuned .21, now tht is a handfull to tune. It should'nt take more than 10 minutes to get it tuned. The carb is up there with the expensive brands on tuneabilty.

just ordered the B5 and 2057 for my RC8B. Previously ran vspec. Can't wait to start breaking this bad boy in.

Yesterday we did break in our B5 with 2013 here in Holland. Breaking in the engine was very simple en the engine runs great . Perfect engine for a very good price.

gr Michel Velder

I am looking to get smaller venturi. Smaller than the stock one that comes with the engine.

What do you guys recommend.

GRP inserts work well. Decent fit, not perfect just a hair loose.

lol just how it would say it...

-DC-