Hi all,
I'm sorry for starting a new thread on this, but when I searched threads the only thing I found was XXX-CR (car). I have a problem with my CR truck that I can't figure out. I may have to try to call Losi if I can't find the answer here.

I had to replace my aluminum rear hubs due to severe damage on one side. When I removed them, the CVD spun smoothly on both - I checked them. I purchased new aluminum hubs and also checked and scraped them for slag. I put in the same bearings (all smooth) and used all the same hardware - the same stuff that was smooth before I took them apart. When I put them into the new hub, the CVDs were very rought and turned with resistance. I removed and reinstalled the hardware several times, including going back to the old hubs. I have a very small wrench for pushing the pin that goes through the hex nut and the outdrive. When I insert the pin, it makes for rough and resistant turning. When I pull the pin out and put my tiny wrench through the hole, it is smooth. If I remove the hex nut and put the pin through the hub, it is also smooth. So I replaced the hex nuts with new ones - no difference - still very resistant and rough. I am about ready to tear my hair out. Anybody else have this problem? They were smooth and working perfectly before I replaced the hubs, and again, if I leave the hexes off, it is smooth. The pins are also straight and not bent. There is more resistance than I am comfortable with and it creates a lot of drag and sporatic motor performance because it catches. I can hear the motor suddenly break it loose here and there.

I have been advised by another racer to just change the CR to the QC adapter for the MF2, but I have already spent $44 for these hubs. Also, I am not sure how that adapter works. I have seen pictures, but it looks like it has a nut on the end, not the spring release. Can anyone give me any ideas here? If I can't get this figured out, I'll probably give up offroad for now. I have an old MF1 that I have kept set up for oval, but none of my offroad good tires and wheels will work on it because you can't convert an MF1 (smaller CVDs) with the new adapter, at least not without a lot of extra expense of putting MF2 or CR CVDs on it. I am basically unemployed right now - work is sporatic - so can't spare the extra money to do all that anyway. Any suggestions on how to get the stock hubs and hardware to work? I have thought about sanding, but that might make it rougher. Has this happened with anyone else's XXXT-CR hubs?

Thanks.
Diane

Mine did the exact same thing and I ended up sanding the backside of the hex (the side closest to the hub/bearing). Cleared it up.

Same problem here and same fix, lightly sanded the back of the hex.

JS and KLaymon,
Thank you so much. K you say "sand lightly". How lightly is that. I assume you don't want to remove the entire raised area? What weight sandpaper would do the best job?

Just take off material until you don't bind anymore. The pin holds the hex in place so it's not like the hex has to rest super close to the hub. I'm not sure what grit I used. I just have some of those Testors sanding films. I picked one of the middle ones and sanded until I had clearance between the hex and hub. I may have removed the whole raised area. I would have to take it apart to see for sure.

Thanks! I'll give it a try and let you know how it works. Appreciate it!

Diane

Hey guys,
Thanks again so much. I sanded the hex screws and they turn smooth as silk now. Can't figure out why it does that, as when it was new it didn't do it and also it was smooth before I removed them to change the hubs. But the sanding did work. I did have to sand off the entire raised ring on the plastic. But it's perfect now. Thanks again so much. Now I can get my racing "fix".

Diane

Glad it worked.