The Speed Passion Thread
#2568
cain try and pull back the timing a bit. if its cogging/stuttering at speed you could most likely be overtimed.
The new software ramps up timing for more rpm hence why its more so a hassle with the 107/110 software.
Like irgo mentioned pull back motor timing or alternatively just back of timing on the esc.
The new software ramps up timing for more rpm hence why its more so a hassle with the 107/110 software.
Like irgo mentioned pull back motor timing or alternatively just back of timing on the esc.
#2569
#2571
I recently posted that I had an SP 13.5 v3 that seemed to have sensor problems... 'bjspinner' provided some key insight into what might be the problem, and then later posted a 'how-to' on "fixing" it...
To be safe, I did some more research and found where Shawn had posted some recommended sensor/rotor spacing information...
I tore down my SP 13.5 v3 and found that the rotor to sensor spacing was approximately 2mm -- roughly twice what Shawn had recommended! I have adjusted the spacing down to 1mm, and have only been able to do a workbench test, but Tuesday night I hope to get in a full track test on "practice night"... I'll report my findings then in the hope that some of this might help someone else...
Thanks for everyone's input...
Have you had a look at how close the sensor is to the rotor on the ver 3 motor?
You may be able to shim (remove shim/s and move to the pinnion end of rotor) the rotor closer to the sensor board.
We were dynoing motors and found on the version 2 this would stop cogging as the motor warmed up( also increased power by 5 watts)
You may be able to shim (remove shim/s and move to the pinnion end of rotor) the rotor closer to the sensor board.
We were dynoing motors and found on the version 2 this would stop cogging as the motor warmed up( also increased power by 5 watts)
pull the motor ends of the can and remove the rotor.Where are the shims placed on the rotor( my bet 3 on the sensor end).
Get the sensor end and leave it intact, now place the rotor into the bearing and see how much gap there is between the rotor and the sensor board.
Remove a shim at a time and see how the gap closes up,put that shim at the other end so as to not increase the total end play and give it a try.
Just remember every thing expands when it is hot so dont go to close to the sensor board with the rotor.
Get the sensor end and leave it intact, now place the rotor into the bearing and see how much gap there is between the rotor and the sensor board.
Remove a shim at a time and see how the gap closes up,put that shim at the other end so as to not increase the total end play and give it a try.
Just remember every thing expands when it is hot so dont go to close to the sensor board with the rotor.
Use the shims at the back of the rotor to make sure the rotor doesn't actually hit the sensors on the sensor board as it rotates. About 1 mm is fairly standard spacing between the rotor and the sensors.
As far as spacing goes - yes, it can make a difference. the closer the proximity of the sensor to the rotor the stronger the signal is to the ESC. Although there is some convoluted instances where close and strong could be too close and too strong for some ESCs, being farther and farther away can in most cases start to degrade the signal and you potentially lose some accuracy.
Generally though within the space available in a motor - not much worry about too far away, just make sure you're not scraping the sensors with the rotor
.
As far as spacing goes - yes, it can make a difference. the closer the proximity of the sensor to the rotor the stronger the signal is to the ESC. Although there is some convoluted instances where close and strong could be too close and too strong for some ESCs, being farther and farther away can in most cases start to degrade the signal and you potentially lose some accuracy.
Generally though within the space available in a motor - not much worry about too far away, just make sure you're not scraping the sensors with the rotor
. Thanks for everyone's input...
#2572
Just a shot in the dark, but I've been chasing sensor gremlins with my v3 13.5, and I wonder if the rotor to sensor spacing was too great, would that make the sensor more "voltage sensative" with some versions of the software..? If it did this might be a part of your problem...?
#2574
Tech Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,059
From: Oreganastan Pacific Wonderland home to Indoor Farming
To all those who are trying to help with the 12th scale 1s "stuttering" issue.......this IS normal when YOU hold it in your hand and free rev the chassis!!!!!!!
This setup (pin spur diff axle) really likes to Bark and Growl when tested like that
Put The Car On The Track to do the testing
Cain, if you have read all of TryHards posts, Ed has had "success" (?) with the 107 and 110 using 4 cell nimh, I on the other hand run 1s and have NOT been able to get it to perform at all
I mean it works, just no initial punch, running 17.5 v3 and 13.5 v3 . I had to dig up the old 312 to make it work!
I have hope that SP will be a 'player' in the 1s game in the future.
Mark
This setup (pin spur diff axle) really likes to Bark and Growl when tested like that

Put The Car On The Track to do the testing

Cain, if you have read all of TryHards posts, Ed has had "success" (?) with the 107 and 110 using 4 cell nimh, I on the other hand run 1s and have NOT been able to get it to perform at all
I mean it works, just no initial punch, running 17.5 v3 and 13.5 v3 . I had to dig up the old 312 to make it work!I have hope that SP will be a 'player' in the 1s game in the future.
Mark
Last edited by Drillit; 02-22-2010 at 01:36 AM. Reason: better choice of performing word
#2575
Tech Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,059
From: Oreganastan Pacific Wonderland home to Indoor Farming
#2579
To all those who are trying to help with the 12th scale 1s "stuttering" issue.......this IS normal when YOU hold it in your hand and free rev the chassis!!!!!!!
This setup (pin spur diff axle) really likes to Bark and Growl when tested like that
Put The Car On The Track to do the testing
Cain, if you have read all of TryHards posts, Ed has had "success" (?) with the 107 and 110 using 4 cell nimh, I on the other hand run 1s and have NOT been able to get it to perform at all
I mean it works, just no initial punch, running 17.5 v3 and 13.5 v3 . I had to dig up the old 312 to make it work!
I have hope that SP will be a 'player' in the 1s game in the future.
Mark
This setup (pin spur diff axle) really likes to Bark and Growl when tested like that

Put The Car On The Track to do the testing

Cain, if you have read all of TryHards posts, Ed has had "success" (?) with the 107 and 110 using 4 cell nimh, I on the other hand run 1s and have NOT been able to get it to perform at all
I mean it works, just no initial punch, running 17.5 v3 and 13.5 v3 . I had to dig up the old 312 to make it work!I have hope that SP will be a 'player' in the 1s game in the future.
Mark
Originally I was going to run the 323, but someone a the track had internet and let me load up whatever software I wanted after downloading it.
So, I went with the 107 after talking to others who said that the high end shuddering / whirring occuring was normal. It was actually happening when the motor sort of kicked in to the next gear it seemed, assuming this is because of the software.
Anyway, with that sorted I went ahead and ran the vehicle, and here is what I found throughout the night that I hope someone can help with:
setup:
- Associated RC12r5.1 set to stock configuration
- Magenta tires all around ( I think they are Jacos)
- 76T Spur
- SMC 25C 4000mah 1S Lipo
- Spektrum SR3500 Receiver
- AMBrc Transponder
- Futaba S9602? servo
- TQ Booster (white shrinkwrap version)
- Speed Passion GT2.0 LPF or Pro (tried both)
- Speed Passion V3.0 17.5 motor
I had the issue of basically the vehicle going into "coast" mode as I would describe it. when driving the vehicle, and it happened often on start up, it would just go to about 60% throttle or so and just hang out there. One whole race it did this for the entire race. the next one when it did it, I would "crash", and that would kick it over to be able to really go to full throttle. I tried a variety of different things:
- With and without (no receiver pack) booster (ESC runs fine with no booster as well as electronics)
- Different speed control (changed from GT2.0 LPF to GT2.0Pro)
- Different battery (SMC 25C to an SMC CMax)
When I ran the ESC with boost, I made sure and left the ESC off and switched the booster on. When I ran the ESC only, I turned the booster off, and turned the ESC on. (everything still hooked up)
Also tried retarding the timing on the motor, as well as changing settings on the ESC as far as timing goes and punch. Still had the problem.
Any ideas? It wasn't a brown out like what I saw the Tekin driver using the Novak booster was getting as I could get this "coast" effect with the TQ Booster as well as without it, and the car basically didn't just "die" in a way like his was. it would just go into this "coast" mode. Almost like when real cars go into 3rd gear when something is wrong in the other ones. when it was working, it had some punch and definitely had good speed.
Really need help here as other than myself, no one else runs the speed passions indoors at the track I go to, it pretty much a Tekin show, and I think maybe some LRPs thrown in too.
As a side note, I lent another driver the 17.5 ultra Shawn sent me awhile back, and he liked it enough that he wanted to hang on to it for a bit more.
#2580
Tested today, so what else other than 100222 firmware?
We have seen There is DMTS and Torque Limit from Speed Passion.
Will the new software had "The New Advanced Function" ?
Will Speed Passion LCD Professional had "The New Advanced Function" ?
what could be surprising on the new software ?
Glad to see Adam with new Secrets / Myth.
and i had Myth too, that LCD Professional might got more capability,
than we know now, has not yet been used.
The Myth is Speed Passion LCD Professional did not keep settings on LCD Professional.
The 3 Profiles Settings is saved at GT Esc it self.
The fact is came up when ESC firmware change , Settings Change as well.
while LCD Professional Firmware was not Changed at all.
Another Fact is that SP LCD Professional can not carried any ESC Firmware
in it.
And they (aliens) say why would need to carry such big computer while
Speed Passion LCD Professional can do it.
Wow That's the Myth, and why would need LCD Professional ?
Speed Passion Answer it with Tiny USB Interface,
and came up with the new Sighting Software, that may looks like
Log Software, it look's very nice there.
So maybe we cant wait to see The New Software.
And let's see How Professional is Speed Passion LCD Professional.
We have seen There is DMTS and Torque Limit from Speed Passion.
Will the new software had "The New Advanced Function" ?
Will Speed Passion LCD Professional had "The New Advanced Function" ?
what could be surprising on the new software ?
Glad to see Adam with new Secrets / Myth.

and i had Myth too, that LCD Professional might got more capability,
than we know now, has not yet been used.
The Myth is Speed Passion LCD Professional did not keep settings on LCD Professional.
The 3 Profiles Settings is saved at GT Esc it self.
The fact is came up when ESC firmware change , Settings Change as well.
while LCD Professional Firmware was not Changed at all.
Another Fact is that SP LCD Professional can not carried any ESC Firmware
in it.
And they (aliens) say why would need to carry such big computer while
Speed Passion LCD Professional can do it.

Wow That's the Myth, and why would need LCD Professional ?
Speed Passion Answer it with Tiny USB Interface,
and came up with the new Sighting Software, that may looks like
Log Software, it look's very nice there.
So maybe we cant wait to see The New Software.

And let's see How Professional is Speed Passion LCD Professional.



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