Thanks this thread has grown very big in a short duration a lot of happy users. Made up my mind thanks.

I'm now a believer on the importance of a carb reducer. I was able to use an 8mm insert from an old engine for today's race. I had expected to lean the needles considering it was 10deg warmer and with less airflow. I ended up richening the HSN 18 hours! Ron was right on with the increased turbulence without an insert.

i'm starting to notice a lot of terribles with b5's....

maybe Ron will be our next sponsor?????????

just wondering

Now that's an idea!!!!!

Hello Janke,

Take a look at the "tuning bible" stickied at the top of the nitro offroad forum. It provides good info on, among other things, this problem (and always make sure the engine has reached working temps before tuning (if working temps are hard to reach, lean the HSN a bit)



Jacob

Assuming you fuel tank and fuel line have no air leaks.
Set you idle gap to the credit card size. .7 or so.
With both needles starting at flush, put the car on the track and adjust the HS needle to get the top end you want. Once you get this set the LS for consistent idle. This will get you very close.

Hope that helps you.

I was hoping Ron would answer this....but here are my thoughts from reading all of Ron's posts.

At 5.5 gallons I doubt your engine is spent unless it's been abused for it's whole life. So I'm going to assume that you haven't abused it and it is still in decent condition.

Setting your idle gap at a cc size is the way to go, which you did. However, at 5.5 gallons a flush setting is probably too rich all the way around which you found out because you couldn't get temps up even after driving around for a bit. If you've adjusted the low to the point where you could get a steady idle how long was it steady before cutting off? I would get the engine fired up at whatever low needle setting your at, start driving it to heat saturate the block and chassis, then take a temp reading. If you're still in the 150 F range, start leaning the top 1-2 hrs at a time. During this time do whatever is needed with the throttle to keep the engine running (blip the throttle before it reaches the point where it'd die). With leaning the HSN you are leaning the total amount of fuel available so by default are continuing to lean the fuel at idle or on the lsn. At some point with leaning the HSN, your temps will start to rise. If when getting your temps up with the HSN your idle also starts to rise, then you know you've gotten to a point where there isn't enough fuel being delivered on the LSN and you'd begin to richen the LSN. If you don't ever cause the idle to rise by leaning the HSN and you have a good idle that doesn't die, your done. Or if the idle doesn't hold and the engine does die, lean your LSN some more until you achieve a steady idle that holds.

During this excercise always be sure you're seeing smoke at the exhaust throughout the entire rpm range and have some oil residue on your body and left rear tire. If you've done all of this and still can't get a steady idle, replace your glow plug w/ a brand new one (may actual want to do this first to eliminate the possibility of a bad plug). If the plug is good, start checking for air leaks in your fuel delivery system (tank, fuel lines, exhaust, couplers). If they're all good check for leaks around the carb base, backplate, cooling head and front bearing. Do a soap bubble test...spray a small amount of soapy water/windex to see if bubbles are made, if so, there's an air leak.

I'd also compare w/ my buddy, run the same fuel, being at the same place so atmoshpheric conditions are the same and see where his needles are as a reference.

Fuel, air, and ignition is all it takes for an engine to run. Adjusting needles is adjusting the fuel/air ratio and your glow plug is the ignition. Once you initially apply voltage to it to cause it to glow, the ensuing combustion w/in the chamber keeps it hot enough to continue to provide the spark needed for continued combustion. Air leaks are gremlins which play with your fuel/air mixture and bad fuel is just that...bad.

Good luck, let us know how you make out.

TT will have a wholesale account with Werks, and be offering all Werks products directly. I can not post pricing, but I can tell you we will always be about 10% less than any other retail outlet

i will be using the B5 at motorama cant wait

where do you order?

http://www.teamterribles.com/

Our team store is not yet open. We order directly from Werks. We just signed a lease for a Brick and Motor building In Texas ( terribles RC ) and our team website will have online sales. In due time our team store will be opened to the public, and verified team members will get additional discounts..At this time if you are not a team member, you cannot access our store, or purchase any product

OK I am planning out my Losi 8ight 2.0 buggy and this seems to be the engine to go with. I see that there is an updated carb design, but amainhobbies doesn't have it in stock. Does anyone have any advice on where to pick it up?

Also from going through the thread it seems that the Orion 2013 is best all around pipe to run with this. Is that correct?

One final question. I think I may be building a Truggy in the future as well, is this a competitive Truggy motor? I figure it would be way simpler if I could run the same motor in both rigs so I can become a real expert on it.

Thanks for any advice!

running the stock (13t) bell in my 8T 2.0..."PROBLEM" is that with the B5 having SOOOOO much bottom end, anyone try it with a 15t bell...??? is the 2-tooth bell change to much for the B5's bottom end..??