i will take a bible please?
[email protected]

Can't wait to try this engine.does it come with carb inserts.

Yes it does. One 7mm insert

Can someone explain what exactly the carb insert does? I see some engines come with multiple carb inserts all different sizes.

thanks,
Johnny

Carb inserts are a tuning aid that limits/changes the amount of air that flows through your carb. Generally more air requires more fuel which creates more power. It's a balancing act between run time and power production. At WOT with a 9mm insert the engine should make more power than with a 6mm insert. I believe they also affect thermodynamics, how the fuel air mix flows, turbulent vs. laminar flow. Maybe someone else can chime in on the science, those days are far behind me...

Your explanation makes sense, but if the goal is to make more power, then wouldn't you pretty much run without any carb inserts?

BTW.. thanks for the B5 Bible... I just got down reading the whole thing while having my morning cup of coffee.

Johnny

No problem on the bible, I did it so I'd have a printable reference trackside, kinda like having Ron right there w/ me to coach thru any tuning issues.

As far as the inserts, look down your carb w/ and w/o the insert. You can see how the insert is directing the airflow into the crank. The insert itself is smooth, allowing the air to flow faster (laminar as opposed to turbulent) and directing it exactly where you want it. The smoothness is why you want an insert no matter what, the size of the insert is a trade off between run time and max power.

I guess a carb could be fabricated smooth w/ the insert built into the aluminum and eliminate the need for a separate insert. The downside to this would be cost and inability to adjust it. The way it is now is real simple, if you want and need more power, run a larger insert. If you're gonna drag race your friend for pink slips, put in the largest diameter insert you can find and lean that biotch out. If you're gonna race and a pit stop could mean the difference between a podium and also-ran, tune w/ the appropriate size insert for the track your on.

Through all the product testing done by Werks, a 7mm insert is a good place to start and that's why it's included. Ron mentioned they are testing different inserts for the new carb in .5mm increments from 6mm to 8/9 I believe. Ultimately for most of us, we'll run the 7.

Hope this helps

I know this is probably a dumb question, but I'd rather ask than be sorry. When it is mentioned to turn the needle in 1 hour increments, I'm assuming that would mean 1 full turn? 15 min increment would be 1/4 turn?

I just got the B5 motor yesterday and want to make sure I break it in the right way.

thanks,
Johnny

Glad you asked, think of the face of a clock, 1 hour is 1/12 of a turn, 3hrs is 1/4 turn, etc.

Not a dumb question at all. 1 complete revolution is called a "full" turn.
1/12 of a full revolution is referrred to as an hour. IT is a very small turn to the right(lean) or the left(richen). look at the needle as being on a clock. turn it 1 hour.... vice 12 hours(full turn) Hope that makes sense.

Man, I'm glad I asked!! Both your explanations describe it perfectly. It also shows I was way off base with what I thought it meant.

Thanks,
Johnny

Man I'm full of questions today!

What percent nitro do you run in the B5? I see a lot of people talking about 30% nitro. Do you have to run that level because that's what the motor requires or can you run lower at 20%?

I ask because I have other nitro's that I run at 20%. I guess I've always run at 20% I guess because I don't know better or that's what the sales guy told me to run.

Now with the B5 I want to make sure I do it right.

thanks,
Johnny

It comes ready for 30% nitro. You can use 20% but would require removing a shim to lower the deck height, I'm not sure of what thickness(color) shim should be removed. If I were you, I'd get some Werks 30% as that what it was designed for.

Have had the engine for 5.5 gallons now. My friend and me have the same engine. We love this engine... I've gotton off tune a little. The engine would idle then the idle sound would drop. Then the engine would die. I had the idle gap to wide. So I went back to stock settings with the needles (flush). Closed the idle gap to just smaller than a credit card size.
It was hard for me to get the temp up to around 200F. Even after driving around for around 5-10min. Temp was around 130F-150F.
So I started to lean the bottom one hour at a time. Until I could get a steady idle. Then the engine would die...
So here is my question: Should I still lean the bottom or start leaning the high? Is this a tale tale sign the engine is going bad?
Thanks

Yeah, well I'm gonna hit the LHS after work today and see if they have 30%.

thanks,
Johnny