if you still have the 12x8 that would be fine. i dont need too much and i dont want to pay for more than what i really need, F-ing college lol.

cool, I will make sure to bring it with me to PG on sat.

You guys got a little off topic Can someone answer my q's on page 10

cheek out oople.com and go to the i made this section.
there is all sorts of detailed mid motor conversions.
if you are handy and creative anything is possible.

Thanks for the site info, looked at all the pages and found a bunch of builds. It looks like I would need to shim the tranny up about a 3/32 of an inch and make a brace for the tranny. Can someone post how they added the extra gear into the tranny? The battery mount and the other stuff would be easyer to deal with once the tranny is in and doesn't seem that hard once I have an idea, but I have access to a wide variety of metals and tools like a mill etc so it shouldn't be an issue, I'm thinking a couple little peices of angle aluminum for the battery.

If you are going to build an AE conversion you can buy the X Factory trans and have a 4 gear trans. I am going to use this conversion that mounts a 4th
gear on the outside, I am going to add a twist to this concept as you are pretty much stuck with a 20T pinion to do this mod in the pic.

Yeah I am modifying the external counter gear set-up on my car right now. I am adding a 'cam plate' to the outside of the original motorplate using a pivot and slip joint for adjustment with the counter gear mounted to the cam plate.This will open up the gearing window wide open. I will post pics by thursday.

Please post a pic when u are done 2wdMod..
I was going to do something similar but build a new longer motor plate and mount the counter gear on a angled slip joint and then mount the motor in front of the counter gear also at an angle so pinion or spur changes are unlimited.
I think we are on the same page

When I was using the losi trans I didn't have to put any spacers under it but then I put the x-factory 4 gear trans in my losi buggy. I can post some pictures of what needs to be shaved down on the chassis tomorrow

This thread is great and has me wanting to do a 4 gear conversion to a non-B4 franken-chassis too. Can I just buy the casing and be done or will I need a motor plate and internal gears also? Oh, this will be the 4 gear assembly from X-factory I am interested in. Thanks.

Thanks for posting the pic. it looks like the extra gear is an idler gear with a screw and bolt holding it on with a spacer between the motor plate and the extra gear, that wouldn't be hard to do but then you have gear cover issues. I supose you counld put the extra gear in a place for the pinion of your choice as I run 27/78 so it would need to be mover higher up. I was on atomic carbons website and they showed how to flip the tranny so its still 3 geard and standard rotation which looked easy to do but would need some help getting the spacers that are needed.

Junky, the gear cover isnt needed.I ran mine for about 15-20 batteries with no gear cover and no body for the firstweek or so after I built it.Zero issues with any debris getting in the gear train.The gears are pretty well protected once you move everything to the MM configuration.
Placement for the counter gear is crucial.Where I placed mine I have plenty of adjustment to move the motor forward ,or back..

The atomic carbon flip method works, but still doesnt optimise the torque roll of the motor to help with weight transfer.. This method is generally used when you dont have a speedo that will run the motor in opposite rotation.It accomplishes the same thing as reversing the motor rotation, but it does it by swapping the motor plate to the opposite side of the tranny..This has the same effect as running a 3 gear tranny with the motor rotation reversed. The only method to acheive the same effect as x-factory's layout is to go with a 4 gear trans style set-up. Doesnt matter whether it's inside the tranny or outside,but the tranny rotation is correct while the motor rotation is also correct to aid in weight transfer.

We are kind of on the same page- I already have a slip joint in my motor plate to allow the counter gear(idler) to be adjusted.This does work ,but you have to locktite the screw for the counter gear shaft EVERY TIME you adjust it.I have had mine move on me a couple times so far. so this method is kinda hack and not dependable. The cam plate set-up I have designed is much more stable,and adjutsble. I also made a new motor plate for this set-up. Using the flat plate style chassis like I am doing I was able to move my motor DOWN 3.5mm for a lower C.O.G. where those that are choosing to modify stock chassis are having to shim the tranny UP to get motor clearance on the side pods of the stock chassis, which RAISES the C.O.G...Keep in mind I only moved the motor DOWN.It did not change the motor position from front to back, but still moves the pinion shaft 3mm further away from the counter gear/spur assembly. I only went down 3.5mm ,but actually could have went down another 3 mm if I machine a recess in the chassis for the motor to sit in, but didnt want to open the bottom of the chassis up for debris to get in .

Punch X-factory into your search engine. you will find their webstore where all the parts you need for the tranny are available. At one time I do beleive that had a bundle that included all the parts you needed for the 4 gear tranny.

you will need new internal gears for it because it uses b4 gears with an extra idler. you will need the x-factory motor plate. if you are doing this to a losi buggy like mine i would suggest using the x-factory rear bulkhead and x-factory shock tower like i used on my buggy