The Hitec servos and the Multiplex Rhino should be able to handle the Lipo voltage with no problems according to the Hitec boys!!

As per promised---I've got a few more pics to put up--I'll show how the car is coming as I've learned to "setup" for our racing conditions. I'll take lot's of pics at the Toys for Tots race this weekend--and update what I've learned about setup for these cars. .
Stay posted newbies!!!
T

Okay---I'll post some new pics and updates on my experiences here with the FG EVO cars I've been running. To remind our readers--I'm running an older EVO 4 car with some updates in the sportsman--Street Competition class our here--and I've now moved into the "fast guys club" with the Super Touring Class of cars with the new--"EVO 8" build car!

This last weekend-- we had the annual Toys for Tots race with the GLARCRC club. I ran the above mentioned class's-- I'm getting better at understanding the setup for these cars--but I DO have to give ALL THE CREDIT to Frank Killam without who's help I would not have progressed as far. He really knows these cars well--and relying on his expertise --has allowed me to concentrate on driving and getting better with a car that always seems very close to the ideal setup!!

Below, you'll see a pic of the car--and then close ups of the front and rear tires! Please notice the wear pattern on the tires. You can see the inner side of the tire is getting worked harder than the outside. This isn't completely bad--but I used this information to put more "positive" camber-- lean the top of the tires farther towards the outside-- to correct this wear pattern and use more of the full tire from side to side. This made the car bite better-- and turn harder as well. I think what I need to do--is complete one of Vic's EVO build / setup sheets that he posted earlier in our build thread. As now--it would make more sense. I'll need a couple of days to get it filled out--but that would be good for a future post..
Needless to say--these cars take CONSTANT upkeep and looking after to ensure that nuts/bolts/screws stay tight and everything stays in place where we want it!!!! IT seems--that things CHANGE from just driving these cars---of course, IF I could stay away from hitting boards--bumping over the curbs or inside line disks--or even avoid hitting other CARS then maybe I wouldn't find soo many changes. But I have to keep checking everything in the suspension--especially the ride height--droop--wheel alignments--camber and caster--tow in and out etc etc etc. After every pass--- I take the time to remove the body and inspect the car--even if I've had a perfect untouched run. Things DO change and vibrate loose--just like real race cars. If I hadn't found the counter shaft pinion gear had loosened on the car--I would have lost a qualifier--or worse--the race! Noticed it had come lose after my last qualifying run on Saturday. Fixed and repaired for Sunday's last qualifier--and then main event.

Okay---earlier in the thread--someone asked for updates on my lap times with the two cars. I've had three races now to really get to know them. The older EVO 4 car is VERY good and faster than the new EVO 8 because it has the proven modified "Tom Bowlin" motor in it. It's got a LOT of power, and doesn't use too much fuel to get it done!!
The EVO 8 has a bone stock 23cc Zenoah motor in it. Three races ago---brand new and barely broken in. Now it's got some time on it--it seems to be picking up a little more power and RPM. But you can really tell the difference in the two motors. I'll soon pull it out--and send it of to Tom for his "Magic" touch to wake it up!!! I've purchased a new stock motor for a "back-up" while the run-in motor gets the Bowlin touch. Tom tells me it's better to have the motor run-in before he rebuilds them as the "heat cycles" help everything settle in and seat better even for his rebuild.
However, now that I've gotten a little better driving these cars, I'm starting to be able to take advantage of the better handling of the EVO 8!! In my last qualifiers on Saturday-- I ran 11 laps in the high 19 second range and could not manage to dip into the 19's with the older car even with the faster motor!! It handled really well, and set TQ in it's class--but the STC Class is MUCH faster--and the EVO 8 could handle the track enough better to make up the advantage the 4 car's motor gave it!! Interesting huh??!!! Of course, that was still only good enough for 7 on the grid---but I guessed right for the final setup-- (It was right near sundown and the track was getting colder) and the car was really good to drive. Others had a more aggressive setup--and it cost them the ability to drive their cars hard enough to run fast. I was able to move up to 4th position for my best finish ever in the STC class!! All in all---a very good fun weekend for me and the new EVO 8!!! It's living up to it's billing as a very good car-- and I hope I can learn to get faster with it!!

The pics below just show how LOW the cars need to be to run well--low--but NOT touching the track in the turns or under hard braking!! Also--another tip -tow IN on the rear tires ---tow OUT on the front tires is standard setup !!!
FWIW
T

nice rebuid

Hi timming, great job man.

much appreciate your effort, this guide is really useful.
Only an advice for the next time: when you'll build a brand new FG car you could make some videos during the building process.

what do you think?

That's an excellent idea--actually--I need to talk Frank Killam into doing a build thread. He's the MASTER of the FG cars and building!! Maybe I can help him do a complete build thread. Anything I've learned about these cars has come from HIM!!
THANKS for the compliment-- I'm hoping to make the coming Nationals with my F-1 car. I'll take lot's of pics there if I can.
T

Hi Tim, any news about you had posted sometimes ago please? Most of people out there are waiting for a brand new FG build car. Maybe the evo-11.

I look forward to hearing news from you.

A big thank you.