Okay---I opened my big mouth too many times-- and for my punishment-- I'll try to post many pictures--and a description of the "BUILD" for my new FG Evo 8!! I bought the car through Bob Sarnelle of VS Modelsport. They are the primary importer of all things FG!! They are very helpful with the correct parts and "setup" over the phone if you're interested in picking up a car.

I'm enlisting the help of master builder --Frank Killam-- to help me with this build. I'm learning to post pictures with this as well--so please bear with me--I'm learning a LOT of things at one time!!!! I've known Frank for over 35 years of racing all things on-road--from real cars to 1/12 scale and now on to 1/5 scale and he's kindly agreed to help me with my build.

To start with---I've got a pic of the "open box" with all the bits packed in there. I choose the factory BMW body for my initial set up. I plan on running this car in the GT class so I will be mounting one of Killam's new Corvette Bodies on the car. There's pics of my newly painted bodies as well--I've been painting slot cars and 1/10 scale cars with an "Airbrush". So picking up rattle cans is certainly a "forgotten art" for me!!! I forgot about the dreaded "bleed through" as you can see on the BMW--but I'll live and learn.

In the pics below you can see the box of parts on the left-- the complete car less body is in there!! Chassis--pipe and motor--mounted wheels and tires--kit came with soft A compound for rear and hard D compound for the fronts! Guess they want you to "push" a little when you first drive it!!
The Corvette body is done in Silver / Black/ and flourescent red.
The BMW body is Yellow / black and Green accent stripes.

Okay--- so I'm on the phone with Frank and he says--- "Build the radio tray"!! Well need to have that done anyway--and I'm sure you can handle that no problem!
SO I got out the bits and the "Directions booklet" from FG--and start checking in parts and opening bags. The little "Servo saver" was the first thing on the list. Below it's the first pic on the left. Then I had to assemble the steering arms-- the servo attachment arms-- and drill the carbon radio tray for the "Hitec / Multiplex" servos that I"m going to be running. The Rhino from Multiplex is THE servo of choice for steering on the FG cars!! It's BIG--and very STRONG!! I'll also be using a Futaba 3PK transmitter and 2.4 fasst style reciever. I had good luck with this radio setup recently with 1/5 scale--so it's tried and true.

The FG manual has the assembly pictures of the saver and tray--so I'm only showing the assembled bits---not all the individual steps. I hope this helps you follow along though. If anyone has suggestions of what they'd like to see--let me know and I"ll try to keep that in mind as we go forward.

The final pic is my current EVO 4 with upgrades that I used to race in the Roar Regionals and Nationals the last two months. This is close to what the EVO will look like once it is completely assemble. There will be some small variations-- the radio tray is all carbon-- not plastic-- and everything will be spotlessly clean-- as this car is fresh off the Street class A main event at the Nationals. A VERY nice handling car--very fun to drive. I'm looking forward to seeing how much better the EVO 8 will be with it's current up to date parts. More to come---

Hydrolic---cable is for TV's!!

EVO8 , Hydro or cable?

I thought the picture was a dead give away. It is Hydro.

Timmig, kinda disappointed. You go from parts in the box, to building the radio tray, then a complete car? Usually build pictures show building the chassis from ground up.

Can you take it apart and assemble it again? Because from the title of this thread, it is very misleading.

read it again Harry--- as I said---I took a picture of my 4 year old EVO4 car that I have been racing --- to show a completed car! It's NOT the one that is being built. What did you miss about it being built this Saturday?
I also state that the radio tray's are quite different--the picture shows a plastic tray with 4 servos in it-- the build shot shows the Multiplex servo and 2 other Hitec servos for a 3 servo set-up. The Rhino servo is so powerful it doesn't need to be "ganged" for steering like the older servos.
FYI
Keep looking--- lot's more pics to come!!!
Thanks
Tim

I'm interested to see, how much of the geometry changed between the Evo4 and Evo8. If you could post side by side pics, that would be great. BTW Timmig, isn't that a comp chassis, not an Evo

Yep, you made the edit after I read it last night. I made the post this morning. I SEE WUT YOU DID THAR!!

As far as that Multiplex servo, how have they stood up with crashes or hitting walls? I am leaning more towards buying two more JR 9100 HV (High Voltage Series) servos, obviously the JR 9100 HT (High Torque High Voltage series) for the steering. Plus I don't know if Multiplex supports LiPo batteries. If they do, do you have a link?

Can't wait to see more pictures!!! I am hoping this job works out tomorrow. From there, I can place the order for my Evo 08-530 with BMW M3 Alms.

Dogbone,
from the 04 to the 08. the rear geometry is the same but they sell an upgrade to change the roll center, we just don't have enough traction to use it. the front changes a lot, the 04 had the Comp style from end and they changed to the shorter bulkheads, shocks, springs and the flat C/F plate. for racing we use in-line hubs and not the off-set ones provided on the 04 kit. not sure which one are supplied on the 08.
thanks,

Vspeed

pics!! & set up sheet..

Hey Vctr1,

Would you happen to have the specs on that Multiplex Rhino servo? As in how much torque it has and speed?

Also, what do you think about two servos for steering, versus one?

Here is what I want to use for steering for the FG Evo 08-530:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...HVT#quickSpecs

Or do you think it would be better to get two of these:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...HVS#quickSpecs

Anyone, feel free to chime in.

Victor about the inline hubs. I just got my EVO 08 this summer and it has the offset hubs. Why do you prefer the inline hubs. I 'v heard this before but I don't understand why.


Thanks

Larry,
I like the single servo better that the dual. the gears have a bigger mesh and are stronger.
this are the specs of the Rhino servo at 6V.
The strongest Multiplex servo. Metal gears with final gear made of steel, triple ball bearing. Servo disk with alloy reinforcement ring.

Data @ 6 Volt
power supply: 4-5 cells
torque: 250 Ncm
stall torque: 225 Ncm
speed: 0,10 sec/40°
weight: 175 p
dimensions: 59x29x55 mm

Holeshot,
in-line hubs have faster and linear response, off-set give you a good entry with a big push out of the corners. I'll post a pics of my front end tonight..

Thanks for the updates Victor---

Harry-- I didn't edit the post after last night. Ya just have to READ--as well as look at the pictures!! I posted immediately that it was a pic of my current EVO 4 car-- and I will put some side by side comparison shots together later.

I'll be sure and post as many pictures as I can after the build on Saturday. Experienced racers like Victor are welcome to chime in with their thoughts and suggestions for the newbies--of which--I am one!!

The EVO 4 I have IS an older Comp car-- and it has had some upgrades as it was Frank Killam's personal car from a few years ago.

Harry--the Multiplex servo has proven near BULLETPROOF!! That is why it has become the servo of choice--and the geometry of the servo saver and front steering works really well with the single servo setup. This servo is so strong-- I can't imagine breaking one. Something else will break first!! I'm even using the aluminum output steering arm upgrade--if you're concerned at all about servo breakage---use the heavy duty nylon output arm--it will break long before the servo gears!!
FWIW
Tim

How does the Multiplex servo work with 2 cell LiPo batteries? Can you just hook it up or do you need something else like a voltage regulator for the servo.

And judging from the specs that vctr1 posted, it is the same specs as one of the JR 9100HT HV servo. Plus the JR9100HT HV servo works fine with LiPo.

I'm sending the question to Mike Mayberry of Hitec. He'll answer the technical stuff for Hitec/Multiplex. I like to run the 5 cell 3300mah sub c nickel metals anyway. They'll take lot's of abuse--and I don't have to worry about a possible on-board fire from an impact. I need the weight on that side of the car anyway to offset the weight of the motor on the other---and I can hang it really low in outrigger style so it helps with handling.
FWIW
TIm