Ok I'm going to get some p4 plugs and then ill give you a call thanks John E
Me and brandon had a half decent tune just gets a little hot still

Mine run 270ish with a race tune. I run od97 plugs. The p4 work fine, but cost twice the od plug.

me and my friend run reedy`s in our rc8t`s whith p3 plugs. whe run the 8mm carb insert, and byrons 30% fuel. our head temps are normally 240 to 270 every weekend.and have been for 5 gallons of fuel. as fare as the tune I usually start off whith the high end needle 2 1/2 out and bottom end 3 turns out. but last weekend I raced at reo raceway`s indoor track I had to richen the top 2 hours. the head temps for bothe motors 240 to 250. we pited every 11 minutes. ps just give the reedy a litle time to breake in and the temps will dop. I hope this helps? rc8t factory team pipe. 1.1 clutch springs whith 14/52 gear setup.

+1. I first tried the 97 because of the cost, but am now 100% convinced for most conditions it's the better plug. From my testing, the P4 narrowed the gap of hitting a good tune. The 97 provides rock solid idle, crisp bottom, last longer and is $5, what's not to like?

Brandon do you have any suggestions on break-in and tuning that you would recommend ? Any little things that help. Paying attention to the details is a key to success. Thanks

can i ask for honest opinions on this engine it a toss up between a v spec or the reedy what are the run times in a buggy like? and what are they like to tune

thanks

So what plug runs better in the Reedy ? The p4 or od97t ? I don't want to buy plugs that don't work well !

Yeah sure thing, you are right, it's often the small stuff and even the simple things can get a engine to run great.

I'll go more in depth how I tune the motor, there are all different ways of how people break it in. This is how I have personally broke in my Reedy engines, and they all tune well and perform for a long period.
-always preheat before starting it up for the first time
-wrap the head with something like foam, foil, a sock or something to retain heat.
-idle just ONE tank through the engine (just to oil and seat the parts). LET COOL after first tank
-PRE HEAT engine again-on the second tank I am running the engine on the ground, with the HSN a little rich for lubrication but lean enough to get temps up to around 240. Run the whole tank out using idle to 1/2 throttle bursts. let cool again
-Keep doing this for 3 tanks, then for tanks 5-8 I keep it at the same HSN setting but now I am making about 100ft pulls of wide open throttle (temps still staying around 240).
-after 8 tanks I put a race tune on it and try to kick some butt
-biggest thing is making sure the engine cools after each tank, and then preheating it before the next start up. I usually preheat the engine for the first 1/2 gallon.

TUNING

I will say that on all 5 ngines I have ran, I have never used a carb or back plate sealant, and have never had an air leak or funny tuning. Some people swear by sealing an engine but I have had good success without doing it.

I actually prefer to tune from the bottom end first, and can usually get it really close on the box before hitting the track. Here's how I go about a tune when I get to the track.

1.) Start engine and rev gently for about 2 minutes to get some heat into the engine, always tune the engine when up to close operating temp.
2.) I clear the engine out when a couple solid (not death revving) revs then listen to how it comes down to idle, wait about 5 seconds and hit the throttle.
3.) I look for a steady smoke trail and a steady clean pull from the bottom end. You don't want heavy smoke at first tapering into a faint trail. The engine shouln't hesitate with a rich or lean bog. Should have a crisp sound with steady smoke.
4.) If the engine blows lots of smoke and hesistates to start pulling, lean the bottom end until you get whats described above. If the engine doesn't blow smoke and stutters to accelerate, richen the LSN until the desired setting.
5.) A KEY indicator of having a close tune on the LSN is listening to the engine come from a rev back to idle. With the proper glow plug and a properly tuned LSN, the engine should almost immeditaly achieve idle speed after a rev on the starter box or on the track. If the idle hangs up, then slowly comes back to idle in "steps" you are too rich on the LSN, probably noticing alot of smoke as described above. If the engine tends to run on and maintain a high pace without ever coming back down, the LSN is too lean. ALL THIS IS ASSUMING THE IDLE GAP IS SET CORRECTLY (which is around .6-.7mm.)
6.) Once the LSN is where I want it, I will tune the HSN on the track. Assuming climate hasn't changed dramitcally since the last time I raced, this is usually only 1 hr. either leaning or richening for optimal tune. If it's the first time with a new engine, it may take a couple adjustment to hit correctly. A proper tune on the HSN should pull hard until the end of the longest straight, but never totally run out of smoke or "run on" at the end of the straight. If you have properly set the LSN and the engine runs on after long straights, the HSN is too lean. If you see a little smoke, and it doesn't run on, you are very close.
7.) After break in, if the engine runs and performs well, and all driving characteristics are as they should be, I don't pay attention to temps anymore. If you have it tuned properly, the temps will fall where they should. You will learn to trust your tune. I could just about tell you within 5 degrees what it would be before a pit guy checked it, LOL.
8.) After setting the HSN on the track, I will then just double check the LSN sound and response after a tank run before shutting it off after it's at full operating temp. Make any minor (if needed) adjustments, and then it's usually good for the rest of the day, unless the mains go into night fall.

I don't carry any P3's or P4's in the box anymore, I prefer the 97T.

I have both motors so I feel I can answer your question for ya. The Reedy has more top end and is much, much smoother over the v-spec. The V-spec is a faster motor too also very snappy and very easy to tune. If your a good tuner I would choose the Reedy.

thsi is the ONLY method to use... I dont use the Reedy motor but it works on everything, and Brandons method of tuning is the best out there, its safe and motors hold the tune longer and last longer also.. I know there are 100 different ways of doing things in Nitro buggy and truggy and believe me I have done them all..lol But his method is the easiest,safest and by FAR the most consistant, not to mention smooth power delivery.
If you guys follow it down to the wire you wont be dissapointed!!!

the reedy has more top end? really? would the top end show up on a straight away? just saying i watched ryan win with a reedy at the nationals and he was by far the slowest down the straight.

Compared to a stock V-Spec I feel so. Compared to a Pro-Mod, Speed or Ninja then nope.

Nobody at the Nat's ran a stock V-Spec in the A-main too.

not talking about pro mod,speed,ninja,mod whatever. if you think the reedy has the top end pull of a stock 3 port vzb 21 v spec, your ruler is bent. os v spec max rpms 4o000. reedy? i've never seen you run a reedy with topend and or a temp below 300. the os motor pulls of the corner and keeps pulling down the straight. the reedy signs off half way down. the os 28 motor while it has lots of lowend like the reedy it does not have the topend rpms and stops pulling half way down the straight.not saying the reedy is down on ponies, it uses a smooth lowend that works very well in offroad.

They are not going to be cheap engines but they won't break the bank either.