Temps are 200-220.....I have tried that combo on the needles

Aaron Joy...No I did not change the bearings.....

Maybe lean bog isnt the correct term I shhould use...It gives a sound like the clutch is engaging too early But it is not the clutch..so??? That is why I am so confused? Wow could bad bearings cause this? I did notice dirt from the front bearing

You will know if the bearings are bad, your engine will not hold a consistant tune or idle poorly. Read over the stickies on engine tuning ( not saying your new to tuning ) but it helps. I like to tune just as Ron Paris described. I tune the bottom first then the top, they come together in the end. You over clutch a S7 tho I did in the past with a Fioroni sliding clutch with teflon shoes, my engine ran like crap until I switched it out for Kyosho shoes and 1.1 springs.

I find the low-end lean when it "pings" like a 250 dirtbike after you come off a full throttle pass and come back to idle.

Has anyone tried running a Losi RE10 pipe on a S3/Junior 9 ?

I have a small problem with the RB WS9.
Currently running the RB 6 plug with RB 25% on road fuel

The problem is that i can't set the LSN right.
If i go any ricjer than 1/8th it will drive very rich and has no power...if i lean it 1/8th it will act like high idle after letting the throttle from a hisg speed run.
HSN seems fine ...not lean or rich...makes good power.

I would try another plug.... like OD.

+1 on that! I swithed to OD77/97t's and it held a better tune!

Anyone know where I can get Allen head screw to replace the slotted ones on the motor? I know RB sells them, but it seems as though there unavailable everywhere.

I would close the idle gap more, and then try a slightly longer header....as well run a RB5 plug instead...

If you have any old .21 nova engines, the screws should be the same, just make sure the length and threads are the same.

personally, all I run are o.s p4 plugs in my ws73,and c6...best plug IMO I have ran the od97r with good results but prefeer the p4...

as far as the lean bog, does it do this at all times like when engine has not reached full operating temps? if it only happens at operating temps I would look into the front bearing leaking. also check all fuel lines,and psi. tes your fuel tank, and make sure all of the gaskets are good on the exhaust system.

if all else fails go back to factory settings, 5 out on low end, and 3.5 out on high end. these RB engines like to be a hair on the rich side on the low end.

hope this helps


Ryan

I'm new to the RB scene. I just got a C6 USA and the 2045/192 pipe combo. I'm really too lazy to scour another big thread so i'm just going to ask if there's a better pipe and manifold for this engine? Anybody have success with the 9886? One of the really fast drivers i run with told me a shorter manifold will wake it up. Is this engine lazy on the top? I understand it's a stump puller but that might not be to my advantage on the slippery tracks we run on. I'm also thinking of having EB mods bore the crank and fill with silicone. Any other changes to consider?

I myself am a fan of the AE 2035 pipe/header combo..I run this across the board from my S3,ws7-3,c-e-o c6....my c6 is in my truggy and nothing on the track touches it plus I can go over 13 min to a tank ...my s3 is in my buggy and can get over 11 mins plus has plenty of power...never had a jump that I couldnt clear due to low power. both engines are running a 6.5 venturi. outdoors the ws7-3 will be in the buggy also with the 2035 pipe

On a C6 raising the exhaust timing is the way to go IMO.... My C6 is an absolute screamer of a engine on top end.... The Jp4 works well on the modded C6

Saw your dyno this week. Looking sweet.

I am getting excited !