I race every week with my SC10 and the only thing that seem to be an issue for me is the front and rear suspension arms, also keep set of spare hinge pins handy, it always seems like when an arm goes a pin is slightly bent as well, other than that, it seems to be pretty smooth. Also always check the button screw that hold the rear hinge pins in place they seem to back out at the totally wrong times!!!

The only parts I've broken/damaged so far are:

Front bumper: The round "beam" broke away from the upper mount, but it was still functional.

One of my front shock caps was cross-threaded from the factory (or it came loose and shifted during a run)... It doesn't like to thread on straight but it's staying put for now. Waiting for parts to do the VCS bladder conversion.

Rear wheel: I,ve read about the rear axle pins stripping the hubs, so I followed a recommendation to fill them with JB Weld which cures nice and hard. Worked like a charm until the wheel nut came loose and stripped it out anyways.. I added some more JB Weld to rebuild the area, I hope it holds. If you use epoxy or JB Weld, make sure you fill the holes completely, otherwise it can break away and slide deeper and expose the thin areas again.


Motor: Literally melted. I was running 7-cell NiMh, i should have used a 15/16t pinion, I just wanted to see how long it would last.

Everything else is holding up pretty well.

I have seen a rear diff strip out. The guy told me that it happens to many Kits.

My rtr motor cooked itself in 4 runs, I just wanted to burn it up anyway. The endbell literally melted and shifted the bushing over.

Like everyone else said, keep arms, pins, ball cups, maybe shock towers and make or buy a chassis brace. I made mine out of thin stainless steel, took me about 30 minutes to fab up. extra caster blocks and spindles wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Thanks for all your input guys, appreciate it.

As far as the rear wheel hubs stripped out, are you guys getting them replaced by Associated or just having to bite the bullet and pay for a new set? I've got two sets and all four of them are stripped out. I was reading in (what I think is) the latest issue or RC Car Action that recommended fixing the stipped hubs using Quick Steel Plastic Repair. It seemed to work on one of them until the plastic repair stuff de-bonded from the hub and stayed attached to the pin. LOL

Anyway, does anyone know if AE is recalling them or anything of that nature? Just seems like a waste of money if I can't get these fixed or replaced. They were, like, $22 for the pair at Hobby People. Wish i'd known about the JB Weld trick before i'd mounted the second set up. I'd have done the JB Weld on the hub and not wasted the second pair i'd just bought.

It ticks me off that AE knows they're a problem but there's nothing on their website about it.

B.

The B44 rear hubs wirk just fine with the outer bearing being bigger.

I have broken a front and rear a-arm, and a chassis.

The a-arms were my fault, landing against the grain off a large tabletop, on a outer wall fence.

The chassis was an unexplained break, at the front area, on the second run.

You may consider one of the chassis stiffeners available.

Ive only broken front arms.

Ive only broke a Front A arm. Replace the stock ball cups with RPM's, & Id recomend a front chassis brace

I would say that a few extra rear hubs couldn't hurt, the left rear seems to strip off if not totally tightened down. And a set of front A-arms couldn't hurt either, I run the ball diff but I have a completely built gear diff and parts for the ball diff just in case something goes down in that area.

So I posted twice here, opps!

Keep the rubber side down ans the shinny side up, and get rid of the stock electronics, personally i havnt broken anything YET but it seems like front arms are what everyone seems to be breaking

get a diff rebuild kit too.

we broke a front arm today, just landed a jump like normal and it snapped. and we had the pin fall out of the hub a few weeks ago

im getting my own sc10 soon, yay