Which SC10 parts break commonly?
#1
Which SC10 parts break commonly?
I have to decide on a "Pit Box Crash Kit" of parts for my SC10, because my LHS doesn't carry parts and if I break on a race day I am pretty much done. So to prevent this I wanted to know from experienced drives of this car what parts are best to stock up on.
Secondly, I see there are a lot of Aluminum hop up parts available for the SC10. Are any of them "must haves"? I am about to upgrade to a BL system (CC MM 5700) and I know that the truck will be under added stress and will undoubtedly break more than before.
Please let me know what you all think please.
-Hsier
Secondly, I see there are a lot of Aluminum hop up parts available for the SC10. Are any of them "must haves"? I am about to upgrade to a BL system (CC MM 5700) and I know that the truck will be under added stress and will undoubtedly break more than before.
Please let me know what you all think please.
-Hsier
#2
Tech Initiate
The SC10 has to be one of the best cars I have ever driven. The only part i have broken was a front arm from going pinned down the backstretch and a pipe breaking right in front of me. also have seen alot of motors and ESC burn up lately from Associated's RTR line so be careful with that. other than that not really anything.
#3
Doing an RPM front GT2 arm swap isn't necessary but it it is a fantastic upgrade. A set of MIP CVDs in the rear end is also a plus.
Otherwise, keep an eye on your rear wheels, those have really been the only critically weak link in the truck thus far. The keyway slot in the center gets tweaked and eventually strips out. You can fill the holes next to them with epoxy or CA to beef them up, and supposedly the rear wheels are currently being revised to solve the issue
Otherwise, keep an eye on your rear wheels, those have really been the only critically weak link in the truck thus far. The keyway slot in the center gets tweaked and eventually strips out. You can fill the holes next to them with epoxy or CA to beef them up, and supposedly the rear wheels are currently being revised to solve the issue
#4
Tech Adept
iTrader: (20)
the only part i broke was the left front arm after i landed on a 1/8 scale buggy, but i did the rpm upgrade and i am very happy with it, practically bulletproof. and the rear wheels did strip out on mine as well, AE did upgrade the rear wheels, i got a new pair, but haven't mounted them yet, keep ya posted.
#5
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
front arms keep breaking,but thats a t4 thing,get the gt2 RPM arms,i am....and i keep destroying rear wheel bearings,2 sets in 3 months of racing and practise,nothing left but the bearing races,so im going for the gt2 rear hubs,bigger outer bearing...other than that,rear tyres...really cool truck,awesome hadling
#6
has anyone tried strc new aluminum axle carriers or steering blocks?
#7
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
front arms keep breaking,but thats a t4 thing,get the gt2 RPM arms,i am....and i keep destroying rear wheel bearings,2 sets in 3 months of racing and practise,nothing left but the bearing races,so im going for the gt2 rear hubs,bigger outer bearing...other than that,rear tyres...really cool truck,awesome hadling
Get the b44 rear hub carriers, they have the gt2 outer bearings in the outside and inside. Replace all the stock bearings with something better like acer, boca, or even red sealed dynamite bearings.
Go with the gt2 frpm front arms and the metal brace for the front of the chassis. The chassis tends to break on the front when you land nose first. Do these upgrades and the others listed above and you should have a really strong truck.
#9
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Carefull of the wheels issue. I sniped some small pieces of aluminum to fill the openings in the wheels and glued them in place........no issues. Some people have used 4mm set screws to fill that gap too just thread them in and you're good to go.
Blowing out a wheel really sucks!!!!!!
Blowing out a wheel really sucks!!!!!!
#10
Tech Master
iTrader: (60)
I've broken a front arm, rear arm, front bulkhead, steering bellcrank part, and I stripped out the rear wheels.
The broken parts are because things like bricks and pails jumped out in front of me. The rear wheels are because I locktited them on and then had to remove them. I didn't want them working off because that's how they strip out, but the locktite was too much when I tried to take them off by holding the tires and undoing the nut. I did reconfigure them and then JB Weld them back into the original shape and still use them with my MM5700 combo on pavement without issue. My nest set will be JBed before use.
The broken parts are because things like bricks and pails jumped out in front of me. The rear wheels are because I locktited them on and then had to remove them. I didn't want them working off because that's how they strip out, but the locktite was too much when I tried to take them off by holding the tires and undoing the nut. I did reconfigure them and then JB Weld them back into the original shape and still use them with my MM5700 combo on pavement without issue. My nest set will be JBed before use.
#12
The only aluminum upgrade that I can think of is the front hinge pin brace. The pastic one usually gives out after a couple of hard side ways landings.
#13
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
the only part i broke was the left front arm after i landed on a 1/8 scale buggy, but i did the rpm upgrade and i am very happy with it, practically bulletproof. and the rear wheels did strip out on mine as well, AE did upgrade the rear wheels, i got a new pair, but haven't mounted them yet, keep ya posted.
Do you have a part number for the upgraded wheels? I ordered a new set of the stock tires mounted on stock wheels from associated. I think my LHS will have them in today. I'm wondering if I got the upgraded wheels, or the originals.
#14
Have lots of extra front arms and maybe a few rears, extra pins and screws for the arms, a set of 30 degree castors, and a of the T4 Titanium turnbuckle kit. Then your good to go.