Heat the arm up with a heat gun and use some old hinge pins to align the holes. It sucks big time and takes a while to get the hang of this. I use a nut driver on the end of an old hinge pin for leverage. If you don’t heat the arm you will elongate the hole. It can be done to perfection once you get good at it. It's just difficult to tell which way to bend the holes. If you let the pin slide through to the other hole, you can tell which way to bend it. Once you get it close, use the reamer. Man I hope that’s clear...

you should beable to hold the pin in between your fingers ant the arm should fall under its own weight thats when mine do i make sure everything will drop under its own weight with out any binding

Can anyone explain to me how to adjust the breaks on this truggy??

I understand what brake alias is, I just dont know how to set it up.

I would like about 65% rear, 35% front...but am clueless even where to start.

(completely new to 1/8 or nitro for that matter)

Does anyone have a picture that may be helpful?

Thanks in advanced! This forum is great!

Hey guys....how many of you guys are still running the stock shock springs?? I run a brushless setup and have the adjusters pretty much bottomed out just to be able to hold the ride height properly. I am battling the truck pushing and one of my buddies thought that may be the problem. The truck may need the stiffer purple springs in the back. I just wanted to make sure that made sense first.

I should add that when the droop screw is screwed in it affects the holes drastically. I have thought about drilling the hole out a little but I'm not sure if I want to do that. It may not stay put. So, make sure the droop screws are in before aligning the holes.

I adjust the bakes with the radio on,holding the truck by the wing. Pick up rear and hold on brakes, try to feel how much resistance you get, then pick up front and do the same with just the rears on ground.
It's a feel thing, then put it on track and see how it works and adjust from there. I don't like my brakes locking up at all, you lose control when locked up, I prefer a litle more front than rear but everyone is different, just remember to run it right afterwards to see how it feels to you.

+1 on the brake adjustment thats what do to works great a bit more front brake

What's your exact brushless setup? Just to be sure your running the 8T 2.0 right? What Neu......1515 or 1512? 4s, 5s, or 6s batts? What mah and weight? What brushless conversion? Gearing? Diff set-up? As you can see there are a lot of variables that can cause your handling woes.

I run race roller 2.0 set-up on diffs, shocks, and springs. I use the Tekno conversion and use their clutch. The batts I use for my truggy are just about 600 grams (1.3 lbs). My 2.0 turns almost as well as Drakes.

i dont adjust my brakes, my dad does it to both our cars, he has the feel thing going, i dont lol, but he sounds really similar to what you said. you never want your brakes locking up, then yous gots not control

Adam Drake Adjusts Break Bias

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6WHGXq5nfA

what? your dad likes to feel things

i will take one guess what he likes to feel

VERY MUCH SO

yea i understand. simpler to buy new arms lol. assuming the new arms line up.

I have noticed that no matter how much i clean and polish the hinge pins they still bind in the arm pretty hard. The pins rotate freely in the hinge pin retainers so why do they need to be free in the arm too. My suspension does not bind the pins just don't move in the arms very much they rotate at the ends where the retainers are. What is wrong with this? It keeps the slop down and the suspension works well.

Im thinkin the dirt play's a factor in how quickly the suspension can bind up....on a smooth hard pack clean track i went All weekend without touching my rear end on either buggy or truggy...yet at home track i cant go a day without the rear end's goin all squeaky on me...but i cant say the pins have actually blinded in the arm at all...there just a little gritty when pulling out.