8T 2.0
#3016
yea losi-racer that pic i seen of yours looked alot like the rc8t body, but my buddy that painted this had one of those there and it looked much better in person, oh well, this body didnt cost me anything but the nitro stuff of my truck, so i think i made out pretty good
#3019
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 681
From: chester ny
ok my rear diff gear mesh has been too tight since new. i left it alone . now i have hours of run time. the gears look ok but it is way too tight still. no play . also i made the pinion tight with the center shaft so it is not moving in and out.
did shims come with the kit? what the technique
did shims come with the kit? what the technique
#3020
you can shim the rear diffs they come with shims in them and a few with the kit to.. if its still rerally tight just shim so there isnt any tight spots in it...
they do come tight from factory after i ran my cars in i shimmed the diffs so they werent so tight
they do come tight from factory after i ran my cars in i shimmed the diffs so they werent so tight
#3022
ok my rear diff gear mesh has been too tight since new. i left it alone . now i have hours of run time. the gears look ok but it is way too tight still. no play . also i made the pinion tight with the center shaft so it is not moving in and out.
did shims come with the kit? what the technique
did shims come with the kit? what the technique
shim the R+P with a Tick of play...and the Pinion is supposed to be tight to the drive shaft output...if there is slop in there the pinion will walk back and forth causing more problem's.
#3024

It all depends on driver and track. There is no way to tell you if something will make it handle better or not without having a LOT more info. Talking to someone local would be your best bet.
#3025
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 681
From: chester ny
i added a shim and it had to much play. took shim out and now its perfect. then i noticed the diff was installed wrong from the beginning. plastic thing around left side bearing was in the housing backwards.
oh i miss my xray( but it handled like a tub compared to this losi)
#3027
#3028
what motor are you runing.
the stock clutch works great if you are running the right setup for your engine.
if you are running a .28 then you will need to run different springs.
i run a .21 and use 2 Dynamite MaxLife SHoes with gold springs and 2 Losi Carbon shoes with green springs.
I have been running the same shoes since feburary and they still have a lot of life left in them
the stock clutch works great if you are running the right setup for your engine.
if you are running a .28 then you will need to run different springs.
i run a .21 and use 2 Dynamite MaxLife SHoes with gold springs and 2 Losi Carbon shoes with green springs.
I have been running the same shoes since feburary and they still have a lot of life left in them
#3029
hey guys, i ran the 2.0 tonight, i gotta say again, this is the best thing i have ever driven. i finally broke 46 sec mark at my track, the pros do 42 so im happy about that.
i do have on concern, i had a worn out set of bow fighters on my truggy, it was pushin hard in corners(onpower) luckily i had a set i bought for the nitro challenge that i forgot about, so i put those on and that problem persisted. i checked my camber, ride height etc. idk why its pushin, i was thinking about changing the camber but i forgot what exactly does what, i dont have my book in front of me.
any help would be appreciated
i do have on concern, i had a worn out set of bow fighters on my truggy, it was pushin hard in corners(onpower) luckily i had a set i bought for the nitro challenge that i forgot about, so i put those on and that problem persisted. i checked my camber, ride height etc. idk why its pushin, i was thinking about changing the camber but i forgot what exactly does what, i dont have my book in front of me.
any help would be appreciated
#3030
i have now gone through 2 Hitec 7955's on the 2.0 Truggy
the new tray is great and makes it heaps easier to setup the linkages but the harmonics issue is still there. (im sure thats what losi used to blame)
i've had a mate go through i think 5 servos now on the thottle of his 2.0 buggy and truggy.
we all have them setup perfect but when they go theres no warning. they just stop. they aren't burnt out. they havent stripped a gear. they just stop.
Stupid thing is that when you pull them out of the car they work again. if you put them back in the car they still work. but half way into the first lap they stop. Hitec cant find a problem with them and blammed the receiver. so we change the receivers and the problem is still there
This is the same stupid problem that we all had in the 8T and 8. and as far as i can see the 2.0 has just prolonged the process
so any one have any ideas. and dont say epa's. ive been racing without breaks and at 3/4 throttle for so long that i wouldn't even know how to race with a higher epa
the new tray is great and makes it heaps easier to setup the linkages but the harmonics issue is still there. (im sure thats what losi used to blame)
i've had a mate go through i think 5 servos now on the thottle of his 2.0 buggy and truggy.
we all have them setup perfect but when they go theres no warning. they just stop. they aren't burnt out. they havent stripped a gear. they just stop.
Stupid thing is that when you pull them out of the car they work again. if you put them back in the car they still work. but half way into the first lap they stop. Hitec cant find a problem with them and blammed the receiver. so we change the receivers and the problem is still there
This is the same stupid problem that we all had in the 8T and 8. and as far as i can see the 2.0 has just prolonged the process
so any one have any ideas. and dont say epa's. ive been racing without breaks and at 3/4 throttle for so long that i wouldn't even know how to race with a higher epa



