8T 2.0
06-12-2009 | 01:15 AM
#2987
06-12-2009 | 02:02 AM
#2988
Get a longer screw and a lock nut on the fronts at least. and on the rear left arm out a left hand thread screw in that one and also the right front on new arms only for thread reasons and forget about it.
06-12-2009 | 03:12 AM
#2990
J-Dub did the actual work on the hubs I purchased, so I call them J-Dub hubs. If someone else did the work then they would be their hubs. If I purchased the hubs from you I would call them TIX hubs. I really dont think you want Knig Headz to give you credit for the larger bearing size in their alum hubs do you?? I know a local group of racers that is selling modded hubs that are "your" design am I suppose to tell them to give you a call and a pat on the back? I dont know who ruffled your feathers but my hubs came from J-Dub; therefore, they are called J-Dub hubs.
I'm just pissed that another company has now taken my idea and put it production without even knowing where the idea came from.
I contacted KH over 12 months ago with the 16mm hub idea and they said there was no market for it.
now they are selling it with no thanks to me. not even an offer of a free set.
that ruffled my feathers. im sure it would ruffle yours too
J-DUB does a great job and does it for next to nothing. KH charge you $70 for a product that costs them less than $10 to make. im sure if there $60 profit they could have found room to thank the guy that came up with the idea
anyway i dont mean to b!tch about it. it has just pissed me off that there are now 2 companies making a massive profit off it while J-DUB and I try to do the right thing and make it an affordable hopup for the average racer.
If it was your idea making someone else rich you would understand
06-12-2009 | 06:37 AM
#2991
Have run the Drake setup now for six weeks or so and am finally comfortable with dirt racing. One thing I would like to change is to reduce the amount of weight transfer when on power. It is not bad but want to make it less. The front lifts and the rear squats a bit more than I would like. What would be the best ajustment to make to what part to accomplish this. I have some ideas but just want to hear from others. I run on a fairly tight course with one 150 foot straight. Thanks.
06-12-2009 | 07:44 AM
#2992
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 114
Not an engineer personally, but there is a machine shop next door to me, and I know a few other engineers as well.
06-12-2009 | 10:06 AM
#2995
06-12-2009 | 10:36 AM
#2996
Tix. U had no idea I would be pissed too if I had contacted kong headz and they completly stole my idea like they did to you. That sucks! It happens all the time. Your bearing mod works very good. A big THANK YOU from this racer keep up the foward thinking it will pay off.
06-12-2009 | 10:40 AM
#2997
Tech Master
iTrader: (115)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,854
From: Hamilton Ontario, Canada
I use an Ofna truggy starter box and it works great with the 8ight T 2.0. I went one step further and used the top brackets from the Losi starter box on the Ofna truggy box (custom modification needed). Now I can switch over between starting my 8ight 1.0 and 8ight T 2.0 with ease!
06-12-2009 | 10:41 AM
#2998
06-12-2009 | 10:47 AM
#2999
I use an Ofna truggy starter box and it works great with the 8ight T 2.0. I went one step further and used the top brackets from the Losi starter box on the Ofna truggy box (custom modification needed). Now I can switch over between starting my 8ight 1.0 and 8ight T 2.0 with ease!
06-12-2009 | 12:05 PM
#3000
Ok maybe I am way too r/c car dorkin it here,but I was measuring the turnbuckles and steering arms on my basically un touched truggy And all the measurements in the book are way off from the actual setup on the truck??
Ok I get that once you get the camber gauges out and all that,but if this was a kit and I set my ride up like this am I to make it work? Or are the book measurements wrong misprints? I also noticed that the manual has the link measurements from the o.d. why? Is it not easier to measure the link from the i.d or c/l for that matter(while on the car like droop)? this is what I am looking for with this rant what is right... the book or the tools we set up with. for example the rear upper links
book: 142mm
mine 3 mm longer @ 139 and 2 degree neg camber
steering links.
book 137.20 I assume to the manual this is the 2 degrees of toe out that they suggest??
mine untouched from race roller kit remember
139mm
I can adjust my car and read a camber gauge and calipers and all so someone help me out is the hott setup the book or the way it is?
ok im done please help us understand (me and my truggy)
R/C dorking it like The Bandit son 10-4 over and out
Ok I get that once you get the camber gauges out and all that,but if this was a kit and I set my ride up like this am I to make it work? Or are the book measurements wrong misprints? I also noticed that the manual has the link measurements from the o.d. why? Is it not easier to measure the link from the i.d or c/l for that matter(while on the car like droop)? this is what I am looking for with this rant what is right... the book or the tools we set up with. for example the rear upper links
book: 142mm
mine 3 mm longer @ 139 and 2 degree neg camber
steering links.
book 137.20 I assume to the manual this is the 2 degrees of toe out that they suggest??
mine untouched from race roller kit remember
139mm
I can adjust my car and read a camber gauge and calipers and all so someone help me out is the hott setup the book or the way it is?
ok im done please help us understand (me and my truggy)
R/C dorking it like The Bandit son 10-4 over and out