Hi guys, i have brand new 35plus 21 Cordoba engine,still in the box with all papers. no one drop of fuel has been put through the motor. i bought 2 at the time to keep one as back up, but not needed. $550 AUD plus shipping from Australia.

Cheers
Alex

PS motor was removed from plastic.

OK I am looking to replace the engine in my Savage SS Monster Truck and was thinking to go with a Novarossi power plant, can someone point me in the right direction please. N21 3T/RT?

Novarossi does have .28 engines. Better is it to take a look to the R&B .28 engines (made by Novarossi). The TM series or the cheaper ST/RT28 are easy to fins and will make your Savage a beast.

What is the effect of cutting exhaust stinger short ?

I cut my exhaust stinger because long stinger often get bent.

Btw, is it more rpm with shorter stinger ?

Cool I will check those out.

Thanks

Are the extra needle and inlet nipple supplied with the 353'08 just spares or do they serve a specific purpose?

Well for the prices these things are going for I am surely going to be running the 353 08 as my replacement for the NS12 TS1 that has worked so hard for me. I am certine that even though it is not the 09 or even the Tuned version of the 08, it is still going to kick but compaired to what I have been running all this time.

Sean

Hi,
The HSN, LSN and idle needles are well described in the engine's manual. What is the factory setting for the 4th needle, the one opposite the LSN (spray nozzle)? Is this needle set with quarter step or can be changed 5 minutes for example?
What is the accepted temperature for this engine, when it tuned to compete?
Thanks

I have a 353 08 that was running fine now I have to screw the hsn needle way down and the lsn way in to make it run and still only making 220 degrees. If I go back to where it used to run will not start I replced the rod. Any ideas? thanks

OK, I feel like a noob asking this, but I have searched and I don't have the warm and fuzzy feeling from the answers I have found.
I have a 353 '08 with 1.5 gal through it. I have only been able to run it two weekends so far this season and I'm having a weird problem. What should the space be in the chamber at TDC for 25% fuel?
The issue is that it runs like a champ good top end power (@220 F), low end is good (now hesitation after the 5 - 6 sec. idle then full throttle), blows good smoke, after a 5min warm up & 5 min run it comes in and the idle drops W/O high pinging, BUT it won't idle more than 6 - 7 sec. before dieing.
Tried raising the idle, no luck. I'm going to rebuild the carb this week.

Thanks for any helpful advice in advance!

I think you should open at the high needle
perhaps also close just a bit the low needle
and than readjust the idle

If the motor has run good up to 1.5 gallons and there were no issues, changing the head clearance isn't going to solve the problem. Nova carbs are also very reliable, and if there is a leak issue it would show up right away. This sounds more like a fuel tank issue to me. If you have a new fuel tank try it. I had a very simliar experience and changing the fuel tank did the trick. I would definately check the tank for leaks. When the engine is at full operating temp, look at the fuel line. There should be no bubbles.

Thanks for the advice. I hope it isn't a tank, I just put this on in last week....... I forgot to add the 1.5 gal was with 30%, I just switched to 25%. I'll check for air bubbles anyways and change the fuel lines, maybe I need to switch to the X-Ray tank.

RayJ, are you coming out to play?

Scott ... I'm going to try to make it down on Sunday. With your motor I would look at afew things.

1) going from 30% to 25% I would use a #6 plug.
2) Going from 30 to 25% will require leaning the motor out by two to three hours and the motor will want to run between 20 to 30 degrees hotter for the same performance. If you were running it at 220... 240 to 260 with the lower nitro.
3) I'm running an RBR3....similar to your 353, and it won't run very well at all until it gets up to about 265 on 25% with a #6 plug.
4) Check the rod for wear. Sometimes connecting rods that are worn will cause a very unreliable idle when up to race temps.
5) I don't know what head clearance you started with when using 30%, but dropping to 25% won't usually require removing a head shim. It will generally require a hotter plug and leaner top end. If your motor wasn't detonating at 30%(dry piston top with sand blasted look) dropping to 25% won't usually require reducing head clearance.
6) I would definately be looking at the fuel tank, and check the rod. Those are the two things that I would look at first. I would definately be running a #6 plug and lean the motor out.

does any 1 know what the factory carby setting are for plus 12 . and what pipe is good for small to medium size track.