Mugen JX21
#483
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 156
From: San Diego, CA
Hey Guys,
I'm new to the nitro thing and I am having trouble getting the fly wheel off of the engine. I took the clutch shoes off, but the fly wheel is giving me trouble. I used a t-wrench to loosen the nut, but now it just spins loosely against the flywheel, but it won't come off. It just keeps spinning and making the piston move up and down. I watched a video about using a battery terminal tool to pull off the fly wheel, but I have yet to get the nut off, so I'm worried I'll do damage to the engine if I start pulling on the fly wheel. Thank you for any help on this.
Marc
I'm new to the nitro thing and I am having trouble getting the fly wheel off of the engine. I took the clutch shoes off, but the fly wheel is giving me trouble. I used a t-wrench to loosen the nut, but now it just spins loosely against the flywheel, but it won't come off. It just keeps spinning and making the piston move up and down. I watched a video about using a battery terminal tool to pull off the fly wheel, but I have yet to get the nut off, so I'm worried I'll do damage to the engine if I start pulling on the fly wheel. Thank you for any help on this.
Marc
#484
Marc,
If you do not have a Piston stop tool, you can take a Q-tip or the end of a plastic tooth brush and stick it in the exhaust port. When the piston comes up it will stop when it hits it and you should be able to remove the clutch nut.
If you do not have a Piston stop tool, you can take a Q-tip or the end of a plastic tooth brush and stick it in the exhaust port. When the piston comes up it will stop when it hits it and you should be able to remove the clutch nut.
#485
Tech Regular
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 494
look through the exhaust port and put the piston at top dead center. Then remove the backplate. Take a small wooden dowl or toothbrush handle and place it to where it locks the rod in place and wont let the engine turn over. You should now be able to remove the flywheel nut without the engine spinning. However they do make a piston stop tool and is fairly affordable but the other method always worked for me. Hope that helps. also I would replace the collet that the flywheel sits on because it is closing prematurely or you could just hold the flywheel and remove the nut.
#488
I would think the jp3 would work ok. I run a jp4 with mine. I guess im gonna change my piston clips. I have around 2 gallons on mine now. Im just scared to open the engine since it runs so well. Scared it might start flamming
#489
#491
#492
#494
I am using one in both my engines. They do increase power on bottom and top without sacrificing reliability.
Every person that drives my car can not believe how much power it has. I have been very happy with them.
Every person that drives my car can not believe how much power it has. I have been very happy with them.
#495
Bajaracer how much time was on your engine when the clip came loose?
My first Ninja died this past weekend. I had installed the new clips before ever firing it. It lasted 5+ gallons before the rear bearing came apart and ate it up. It gave me warning but I ignored it and paid the price.
I have a 2nd Ninja I bought as a back up. After replacing the clips on the first engine I didnt want to go through the hassle of doing it again. I figure as hard as it was for me to get the originals out to replace them they had to be OK. Now that I am down to one engine I am rethinking that position.
My first Ninja died this past weekend. I had installed the new clips before ever firing it. It lasted 5+ gallons before the rear bearing came apart and ate it up. It gave me warning but I ignored it and paid the price.
I have a 2nd Ninja I bought as a back up. After replacing the clips on the first engine I didnt want to go through the hassle of doing it again. I figure as hard as it was for me to get the originals out to replace them they had to be OK. Now that I am down to one engine I am rethinking that position.



