1Armed1- A lot of guys are very happy with the 2056 or "Bat" pipe. Might be worth looking into. I have been running it on a few other engines lately and have been pleased. In the past, I ran the 2057 on the ET RP mill, with a 7mm restrictor. I could push 9 mins on a med to lrg size track. The 57 is slightly softer on bottom than the 13, but opens up on top more. It is also more quiet.

Tuning is not a huge mistery! You are adjusting a ratio. There is a prime amount of both air/fuel to make good power. The ex-tech cylinder is no different than any other from that stand point. Its hard to explain in a forum, but the concept is so simple. Fuel is needed to cool things down, but you dont want it so cool that its not burning all of it. If its fat, it can't burn all the fuel on combustion so it flogs it out the pipe, and its lazy. Lean on the other hand lets it get really hot, builds a huge fire, but it makes insane power, for just a second, there is the fine line. Keep runnin it lean it will eventually distort, gaul, melt the cylinder,piston, plug what have you.

I cant tell you, set your screw here, and here and it will be perfect. Elevation matters, type of pipe, fuel used, ambient temps, aif filter cleanliness, and even moisture in the air effects the tune.

Temps are good way to play it safe, but watch your smoke stream, feel the pull and you will dial it in, if it is just extremely blippy with no smoke, she be lean. Also, tuning the bottom end needle helps you off the snap, so you may not have to turn the top, and vise versa. Its a balancing act, but its not a hard one.

one thing to keep in mind, if you tune it to be nice and crisp as soon as you fire it up, its gonna go lean on ya as it warms up. Dont turn screws until you have made a lap or two, then start tweakin, small turns at a time.

MY OPINON, NOT CLAIMING TO KNOW ANYTHING!!!

One other thing, the BAT pipe from ex-tech, watch for the internal baffle coming lose, heard of it, and seen it happen MANY times. Seen it once, but heard SEVERAL folx with the issue.

will we be seeing more of these engines on the shelves soon i really want to try one

I've got 2 .24 truggy engines I want to sell. P.M me your email if you want pictures (having photobucket problems) one is almost new with 30 min run time. the other has maybe 1.5 gals though it. to be honest im tired of keepin them tuned. I dont think anything is wrong with the motors I'm just not able to keep them running right.

Were these motors pre-broken in? Do they Have Eb Mods etched into the crank case?

As far as tuning goes when I tune at home I always need to richen up the bottom end out on the track. My bottom end is about 1 turn out from flush. Opposite of what the spec sheet says but it works! Run a p4 plug with 30% and it should run at about 190 to 205 degrees.

PM me your prices.

Thanks

Guys, 3 failed bigboy pipes at the track this weekend. Same issue with the internal baffle breaking loose. I have one from the very fist units that Trinty got and it is fine. All the new ones seem too be breaking. This caused us absolute fits chasing a tune. Not realizing it was in the pipe. Keep an eye on it and save yourself a headache.

Ive had 2 fail, got one to try out, second time out it broke. Got the replacement, first time out it broke, the pipes are JUNK! not to mention the eb mods extech i have. Trinity, or ugh.. team epic will be getting one nasty letter from me along with all my broken trinity products

EDIT: I got around to uploading the pictures from my camera.(Note: this engine is the eb mods pre-run in motor and has 1 1/4 gallons on it)

Notice the taper on the crank pin


This is the amount of slop caused by it(my finger is holding it against the pin so its on the pin straight, no trick photography)


random picture of the block with eds engraving


somewhere i have a picture of the piston almost going through the top of the sleeve, ill have to find it.

Ouch!!!! I to have sent in a motor from EB with major rod slop! I expect Chad will take care of it for me. It was definately the crank pin wearing away as I put a new rod in and it had the same slop.

I have another .24 broke in by Chad. It has 1.5 gallons and runs great! I hope to get 6 to 8 gallons from it.

guys, I have been running a Etech .21 for a couple months and its FAST - what I found is you need to take the time to break it in... this is what I found to work the best -

Break it in at 175' and then let cool....idle it.. just in the car or on the bench if you can - wrap tin foil around it to keep in the heat and add heat from heat gun if needed... to get the temp up -

Do this about 6-7 times and let it cool in between runs -

Then run it in the driveway slow... and just popping it a couple times here and there.. with 2-3 tanks..

Tuneing... I struggled with this as well but after some coaching from CHAD - found it to be easy - the trick that works great is starting to tune from the bottom end first then move to top end.. if you get the bottom end real crisp, it seems to make the top end that much easier - once set.... it ROCKS -

Some tweaking at the track, depending on the weather

Running Jammin 3 pipe - good bottom and Mid.....

Just takes some time - once you get it good.. it only becomes great -

Anyone know which sirio rod is the same as the trinity rod for the .21?

I had the same problem with my .24. I saw the slop and thought it was the rod originally and ordered a new one. When i put the new rod in it didn't solve the problem and that is when I noticed that the crank pin was rounded. I talked to Chad with trinity and he said that the EB motors were broken in way to fast and that caused both the premature wear on the rod and crank pin. Lets just say that Chad is a stands behind the Trinity products and now my motor is SCREAMING again.

On another note I have a LOSI truggy and due to the carb being so close to the center diff has anyone developed a "notchy" effect on their carb from it not pulling and returning perfectly square. I am now in the market for a new carb but can't find one.

Anyone??

dhopkins,

I spoke to Chad and the losi carb issue came up. (I don't run Losi), He said a lot of the team drivers where grinding some of the center diff top plate off to make room for the slide. Just FYI.

Yep. You need to be sure that you pull the carb open as straight as possible. +1 on grinding the center diff mount. Also, if you run a TRS you need to be sure that it sits down low so that it pulls straight back on the carb slide, rather then pulling up at an angle. I was working on mine a couple weeks ago and forgot to push the TRS back into place, and now I have a carb with a burr on it again LOL. You can buff it out or send to Chad. But, with them moving it will probably be a bit before yo get it back. Below is what he told me on how to debur:

"dremel the tip of the idle screw with mothers polish using a buffing wheel. I also polish the grove it rides in.. if you dont want to do it.. send it to me and i will do it.."

Guys,

Thanks for the tips. I will try both grinding the center diff housing and polishing the carb slide at the idle screw groove.

The buffing works great. Mine was smooth like butter till I FUBAR'd it again being a dummy.