They might be in the process of moving right now, just give him some time. I think you all know how aggravating the move is going to be for a little while. I'm sure he will pop in sometime.

I use a nova carb on my werks b7 sirio based engine same as the extech and It works great. I like the the nova carb better then the sirio carb

what does it mean when people say bottom end and top end when refering to engines?

'bottom' as in low rpm

'top' as in high rpm

good bottom end = high low rpm torq (get up and go)

good top end = high high rpm torq (fast top speed)

are these no longer available through a-main????

I am having issues with the extech fitting my 2.0 roller. After the everything is lined up motor mounts, gear mesh, etc the carb slide boot is smashed up against the center diff top plate.

I have been looking at if for hours and cannot figure it. I am pissed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

have ? for u all. i have the eb mod version. i ran maybe 3 gallons. i think the compression is low but not sure for this motor. i cant turn it over by hand with a lil force. i run nova motors though and i cant do that with them. motor runs like bat out of hell no problems. was thinking it needs a pinch since it feeels like this. are these high compresion motors? just trying this one as a experament. thanks for any insight. also if u all say it needs a pinch or new p/s will the version 2 p/s combo fit the version 1. if somone could pm that would be great. get busyy and forget to check form talk thanks

Chad will be back on within the next 2 weeks or so. I think the move is a major pain for them but it should better serve the customers once the transition is complete.

Dishsoap---You have to shave the center diff mount a little bit in order for the carb not to rub. This isn't a X-Tech specific issue but several motors from other manufacturers do this as well on the Losi buggy's and Truggy's.

iF YOU TURN THE CARB TOWRDS THE BACK OF THE CAR A LITTLE YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE ANY PROLBEMS.

anyone else notice that amain doesnt even list these engines anymore

Interesting, Maybe it has to do with the move and name change?? Here is a letter from the owner: http://www.teamtrinity.com/Moving%20letter%20Web.pdf

To the person with the LOSI 2.0,, I spoke to Chad about that and he said a lot of guys Dremel off a bit of the top plate on the center diff. If I remember correctly the bottom of the carb has a rectangular opening shaped to the crank. By turning it it could mess up the flow....

I must say i don't think i will buy another trinity product ever again.

Let me share my experience, i originally bought an EB Mods pre-run in Ex-tech 1st gen back in June of last year when the engine was first released. The first time i ran the engine in practice it was fine, it didn't make great power as it was still new and running rich which was perfectly normal, i had noticed some fuel leaking from the carb but decided as i had still been running it rather rich that there was a lot of unburnt fuel flying around and chalked it up to that. The second time i ran the engine was a race weekend, the trinity boys in socal were at the track and i pointed out the carb boot leaking, and they spoke to chad about the issue over the phone that weekend and advised to just seal the carb to fix the problem. They also helped me get a good tune on the engine for the race, it was still running rich as it had less than a gallon on the engine for the race weekend and was still getting past the metal pinch. After the race i practiced a bit before the track closed, i had put roughly a gallon on the engine including the fuel used for break in performed by eb mods. This was the end of the season so everything was lubed up to store for the next few months. Fast forward to last month, i get the engine out and practice with it before our first race, the engine was running decently and making decent power, temps were averaging right around 190. At the end of the practice day the engine didn't want to hold its idle and decided it must have an air-leak somewhere. I went through and sealed the engine making sure there were no air leaks and took the car out the following weekend for our race. Me and 2 others were trying to tune the engine and could not get it running right, the motor kept dying, fouled a plug and would not idle properly. I threw in an old go-tech engine to finish the day up and put the ex-tech away. I recently got around to taking the motor apart to inspect it with the intention of replacing the front and rear bearings hoping the engines sporadic behavior was due to an air leak. I was however very wrong. I put some after run oil on the top of the piston with it at tdc, immediately a few air bubbles started to form between the sleeve and piston, i put the head back on to check the compression of the engine by turning over the crank, as well as holding the crank and seeing if the engine would hold its weight, lets just say it didnt, the compression is practically gone in the engine after ONLY 1.25 gallons. I began taking the rest of the motor apart and the rod pin on the crank is badly worn, there is massive amounts of play where the con rod connects to the crank. The con rod shows very little signs of wear and looks very good, but i can visually see the crank pin clearly worn down. Another thing i want to point out is for the new season i ordered a trinity big boy pipe as i heard good things, the first time out the inner venturi on the pipe broke and was rattling around. trinity replaced the pipe for free and the first time running the replacement on another engine some metal shavings came loose in the pipe and clogged up my air line.

I have several motors that have lasted well over 15 gallons, i always pre-heat my engines before running them as to not stress the con rod and always take very good care of them to ensure i get proper life, but 1.25 gallons is just ridiculous.

SMRACER,

I believe the problem is due to the break in procedure by EBMods. I was told he does the Full throttle super rich version of a breakin which is tough on the Rod / pin.

I have about 3.5 gallons on mine that I have sent back to Chad @ Trinity and we will see what they do. Before I sent it back I put a new rod in the motor and it still had way to much slop at tdc.

I have another .24 broken in by Chad and it runs flawlessly. Only one gallon on it but no problems thus far. It is one bad azzz motor.

All in all I think I will break in my motors myself from now on.

GLTY

Thanks for the info! let me know what chad can do for you, there customer service so far has been top notch, i am yet to be impressed by their products however.

Man if that is the case, yeah, i could def. see how the rod and pin would be worn!! Sheesh!! Thats WAY to much on those danty little pins and rods.

My opinion, idle that thing as much as you can stand it, do it at nite when u are just bored and cant drive it anyway. Idle 10 tanks if you can. The longer you can run that dude without loading it, the better the shape of the hole is gonna be and the less amount of stress you are going to cause. Then once you get it running, keep the RPMs out of it, keep the temps down, and the dirt out, should get plenty of use out of it. Keep the RPMs out, i mean gear the car for your conditions so that its not on the max RPMs 10 feet from take off. MY OPINIONS!!!!! dont stone me here!!