no prob just pm me and i will get it done

thanks j-dub

OK, having serious flasbacks here, the screws holding the bottom of the rear shocks are backing out, anyone have a fix?? On my 1.0 used a longer screw and a locknut....any ideas??

Put a short screw in one of the holes next to your shock screw. Should keep it from backing out. I really wish they would have used the same system as the 2.0 buggy. The slotted screw and set screw really keep it secure. Since they re-designed the T2.0 arms anyway, not sure why they didn't do that. You could also just use a dab of CA or shoe goo.

my radio tray has a little flex in it on the t/b side(I know that isnt wanted at all, it ist excessive however, but its there) my EPA's are set correctly for t/b(carb only opening 90%) all mounting hardware is tight as well. linkage is moving freely with no binds, carb assembly/carb ball at correct angle with linkage parallel to chassis. Im kinda lost on what is the cause of this.....any ideas, I hate to think I need to back off more EPA as my carb isnt fully opening now? I am going to look closer at it in the morning.

Anyone tried shimming the ramp plate closer together? Example: using 4 20/25's will have the same off power and still have the on power aggressiveness?

Yes to what JAMMINKRAZY said. Also at places that carry Xray parts they have left hand threaded screws you can use in the front right and left rear. They are pricey but you'll never have one back out. Ten screws for $8.75 U.S.D.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/24572

yip LH thread on the LH side stops it coming out...also Hobao do them on their hyper truggy and might be cheaper.

x-ray and ofna are metric thread pitch, what are you going to do, buy new arms just to run their screws, and then are the shock end balls going to be sloppy on the metric sized threads?Just run the smaller flat head screw next to the main screw.

+1 metric hardware wouldn't hold in an arm already threaded with standard thread pitch.

The difference in size seems negligible. There is much more slop that develops in the aluminum shock caps after a couple races. I was just providing another course of action, the readers can decide on their own what to do. Thanx

the shock screws are button heads so if you take the countersunk screws from the rock guards (they are shortest 5-40 screws on the truck) and run them in a hole next to the button heads and you are golden. i just run them till they are flush with the front side of the arms. even though they are short if you crank them in they will hit the shock end and that isnt good.

I've been thinking about doing this as well, and noticed that issue when I looked @ it. I figure I'll just trim them down to size w/ my dremel.

-Howard

Can I use the 8T 2.0 servo saver spring with the 8T 1.0 servo saver assembly?

I replaced my 8T 2.0's servo saver's plastics with the 1.0 stuff along with the alum. servo saver top, but I don't have the 1.0 spring.

the spring is the whole issue. u can use all of the 2.0 stuff and just use the 1.0 spring. the 2.0 spring is the cause of the whole problem.

Are you sure? I read somewhere that you had to replace the whole 2.0 assembly with the 1.0 T assembly...something to do with the plastic's geometry.

I don't want to have to order a spring now if I don't have to.