Ok well 3 shims on each side of the diff has helped. I have run it now for 4 cycles and it seems to be holding up. I will take it a part again soon and look for any new damage. I am using black greese again. I will try diffrent silicone next time if all looks ok.

Just finished mine with no problems. I went for the more desert/SCORE look...

If it is hitting then your servo saver bolt is not tight enough. I had the same problem until it tightened it more.

That is by far the best looking SC10 I have seen yet. Good job.

i agree!

Thank you very much!

Still need to add side mirrors and a rear spare wheel, then its done. The lights are now functional as well.

If anyone needs any custom decals, please let me know. I made most of these with my plotter.

problem solved...

2 full turns. now it's loosesy-goosy...

thanks...


NEW issue... what is the deal with the roll pins for the rear axles???????

on the firearms i work on, i use a punch and a small hammer to drive them through...

any secrets?

can i switch out to a hex hub???????

you need to add fake "spare tires" in the rear section then...

does anyone know what pitch the spur's are on these? do kits normally not come with a pinion???

48 pitch. Yes most kit's that don't include a motor don't include the pinion.

ldivinag- You are frustrated because they don't stay in?

I agree as well. Real nice.

Can we get better shocks for this thing? Mine are leaking allready. Back in my t3 days the same thing happened lol I thought by now the design would be better.

Mine too. About 10 batteries in.

just the opposite.

i remember my old kyosho days where the pin (not a roll pin) would constantly fall out...

but the roll pin... i need a small press to PRESS them in...

i'm sure the old pin would still work?

or is there a hub kit, like the slash has?

come on... for $200?????

how much were their other kits with premium shocks...


lol....