Team Associated SC8 Setup and Tips
#301
i just got mine friday was breaking the motor in saturday, i had kind of the same problem. it was running soooo rich it was flooding the engine and almost hydro locked, raw fuel was pouring out the exaust. i tried leaning it out and would rev like it was running out of fuel, had a few strange things happining,
i ended up pulling the high and low speed needles out and found debrie in the needle port (low speed needle i cleaned it out and runs great now. no more flooding issues, i think it was a piece of plastic from the fuel tank or primer bulb.
my big issue is with the remote glow plug what a pain in the azz. spend more time messing with that than i do running it. i have 8 tanks run thru it now. love the truck though,
very fun
#302
now i have a ? for the experts
i dont if its just me or this is the way the sc8 is suppose to be but
it seems like it has about 75 t0 80% power to the rear wheels, in loose soil the rear wants to drive around the front and loop out very easy under power.
is there a way to get a little more power to the front wheels i would like it to be about 60-40 or 55- 45 rear to front power, still want to slide it around corners.
thanks for any suggestions
steve
i dont if its just me or this is the way the sc8 is suppose to be but
it seems like it has about 75 t0 80% power to the rear wheels, in loose soil the rear wants to drive around the front and loop out very easy under power.
is there a way to get a little more power to the front wheels i would like it to be about 60-40 or 55- 45 rear to front power, still want to slide it around corners.
thanks for any suggestions
steve
#303
With a completely locked center diff, you'd get 50/50 power distribution between the front and rear. I'm not sure what weight fluid is in the diff stock, but say it's 10,000wt. I'd knock it down to around 7000 and see how that does. The lighter the center diff fluid, the more power that gets transferred to the front wheels. It also helps stabilize the car in the bumps under power.
#305
Suspended
iTrader: (7)
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,428
From: Everett
Anyone know what the fuel metering screw on the carb is to be set at.
For those of you that are having issue with the remote glow plug wire; if you want to keep this system (I like it myself) you can buy a locking glow plug adapter, several companies sell them. I bought one made by dynamite, it screw locks on the glow plug like some ignitors do and it pretty much solves the problem of the wire popping off.
It won't work with especially tall plugs like the ODO99 and ODO100 however.
#306
It says in the instructions that came with the truck for the Pro28. If I recall it was something like 2 1/2 or 3....just guessing but turning it out 4 should be rich enough that you can lean it down until it runs right.
For those of you that are having issue with the remote glow plug wire; if you want to keep this system (I like it myself) you can buy a locking glow plug adapter, several companies sell them. I bought one made by dynamite, it screw locks on the glow plug like some ignitors do and it pretty much solves the problem of the wire popping off.
It won't work with especially tall plugs like the ODO99 and ODO100 however.
For those of you that are having issue with the remote glow plug wire; if you want to keep this system (I like it myself) you can buy a locking glow plug adapter, several companies sell them. I bought one made by dynamite, it screw locks on the glow plug like some ignitors do and it pretty much solves the problem of the wire popping off.
It won't work with especially tall plugs like the ODO99 and ODO100 however.
i put a new plug in the glow starter glows bright, hook one up to the remote
and ground the plug, barly glows. tried 3 glow srartes all the same
if i take it apart. put it back together its ok for about 1 tank.
#308
Suspended
iTrader: (7)
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,428
From: Everett
I cut a slit in the rubber boot. Makes it fit, but it also makes it come off a little easier. Its much like the Revo spring fitting, so it will clip into place and hold alright but eventually bounces off.
That's weird, never seen it happen but it doesn't surprise me. I'd either replace the unit and hope for better luck, or solder it together. I also am using a glow ignitor with a pretty fresh 2000mah nicd in it, so it might be compensating for the voltage drop on mine.
my problem with the remote plug, it is were the ground wire and the remote plug bolt together. everything stays tight but it still looses ground partially
i put a new plug in the glow starter glows bright, hook one up to the remote
and ground the plug, barly glows. tried 3 glow srartes all the same
if i take it apart. put it back together its ok for about 1 tank.
i put a new plug in the glow starter glows bright, hook one up to the remote
and ground the plug, barly glows. tried 3 glow srartes all the same
if i take it apart. put it back together its ok for about 1 tank.
#309
I use a bump starter box to start mine and I just bought a Hot shot 2 long shaft glow igniter I put a small hole in the body above the motor and go directly to the glow plug for starting WORKS GREAT so much easier
Another thing you guys can do (I did it on my last revo) Cut the boot off the remote glow wire and solider on a small alligator clip place it on the glow plug and it will not come off like the stock one
#310
Well I have ran about a gal. through my truck so far so I figured since I had the time today I would take apart all 3 diffs clean and inspected them. Everything looks great but all I have to say is MAN that diff lube associated uses is some nasty stuff
I replaced all 3 with Mugen 10,000 weight fluid it is noticeably smoother
I replaced all 3 with Mugen 10,000 weight fluid it is noticeably smoother
#311
Suspended
iTrader: (7)
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,428
From: Everett
So I wanted to show some of you guys what I was talking about for the remote glow plug, for those having issues with it popping off. I tried this guy out yesterday and it works just fine, it doesn't work on tall plugs like the O'Donnell however.
See the attached pic so you see what I mean, it's a twist lock remote ignitor originally for Traxxas vehicles made by Sonic-Tronics. Dynamite also makes one, but this is a nicer unit IMO.
Part # is MCD450, and it was $10.95 at my local Hobbytown.
See the attached pic so you see what I mean, it's a twist lock remote ignitor originally for Traxxas vehicles made by Sonic-Tronics. Dynamite also makes one, but this is a nicer unit IMO.
Part # is MCD450, and it was $10.95 at my local Hobbytown.
#313
I had some troubles today while I was driving. After 2 or 3 tanks, my servo saver comes loose. The manual says that the gap were the spring is between, have to at least 8,3mm. But mine alu ring is going allways down and he is scrathing against my lower frame, so that my steering servo can't turn anymore.
It isn't easy to describe, and my English isn't that good.
It isn't easy to describe, and my English isn't that good.
#315
Tech Initiate
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 25
OK, first of all I'm the noobiest of the noobs to RC, but when I saw the SC8 I had to have one. Anyway, I've been reading all I can about tuning, and watching youtube vids. I've been having a heII of a time getting it started, but I finally did today, and got it to run a little. But I think I need to increase my idle a bit but I can't get access to that idle screw. How do you guys do it? It seems like I either have to remove the pipe or pull the engine. Or is there an L shaped screwdriver? Help, please!!!



