stormperson- I don't want to argue with you or anything. But wouldn't installing a stiffer front spring make the car more twitchy? Because the stiffer springs would react quicker.... right? That's why I've experianced since I started. But you have much more experiance (especially in 12th scale) so I may be wrong. But its just something I wanted to bring up because I'm kinda confused. Thanks.

racerdx- A stiffer front spring will not make the car more twichy, it will actually take some of it away, or at least thats my understanding. Also there are never any "always" when it come to set up.

DPowell/coRy - Email eric and ask him to take a pic of his car, since he mounted it nicely on his 12l3. BTW, nice to see on you this thread schnerder (sp, lol).

Because of the design of modern speed controls, both the diode and the cap are integral to the operation of ESCs. The cap takes the ugly AC that comes out of the speed control and turns it back into DC that your motor likes better. The diode keeps voltage generated by the motor (when slowing down or transition from forward to neutral or braking) from damaging the FETs in the ESC. You can solder the diode between the wires on the way to the motor, but it really is a lot better electrically if it's right on the tabs. I never had a problem finding a place for a diode or caps on the motors on my original 12L, and the cars I see now don't look much tighter....

-dave

DPowell: I think you're talking about the big square-shaped diode on the GT7, right? I also had trouble with it, not in my 12th scale but in my sedan. The sedan has very little electronics room, and the diode was getting in the way. I talked to a Novak driver and asked whether it was necessary because he wasn't using one. He said it was not, especially in stock or 19T, so I ditched it too. I've run without the diode for a month or two with no problems. It may void the warranty, though, I'm not sure. If you do decide to use it, though, Novak sells wires with the diode built in (no soldering ) so you can switch out everthing and not mess with soldering the diode back into line.

DPowell,

Ran the Quad12 today for the first time!! Didn't know what to expect since it's my first 12th scale. Took a couple of laps to dial in the right amount of steering ( always heard 12th scale had lots of steering - now I know!! ) and then it was awesome! The car handled great - I let another guy at the track who runs 12th try it and he thought it was great too.

I do have one problem though. I was trying to run a 1.67 roll-out. With my 1.9 rear tires and 100 tooth spur I should be using a 29t pinion. It won't fit. There is still room to move the motor screws but the motor is hitting the T-bar. Any suggestions?

I also re-wired my GT7 with 16 guage wire. I removed the diode from the old wires and mounted it to the side of the speedo using one of the supplied clips and wire ties. Seems to work well and doesn't take up near as much room.

Stumper1,

I file the T bar top edge so the motor will move up futher. I file the middle T bar mounting nut also, this will allow another 4 to five teeth of pinion to be put on.I hope the attached picture helps.

Big KAT,

Thanks. That's what I figured I would do but didn't know if it was a bad idea to mess with the t-bar. It's gonna be cool to see this thing going faster since it's allready a rocket. I also need to rebuild my diff - I was having too much fun and forgot to check it after the first run -


Can you also tell me how you lube the dampner tubes? I'm not sure if I'm doing it right.

Thanks

I use 5000 to 30000 silicone diff lube for gas cars in mine. 10000 Mugen seems to work well. I normaly squeeze a little into the tube and work it back a forth till it works it way out the bleeder hole.

I'm grad you are happy with the car. The viscosity of damper lube will depend on your track layout. Tighter track/thicker lube. On your gearing, would a 28 tooth pinion fit? That's what you needed for a 1.67 roll out.

Try a 96 tooth spur and see if that will help you get to the gear you're looking for.

D.P.

The biggest I could fit was a 26. 27 was borderline - seemed just a little too tight for me. I guess a smaller spur would solve the problem ( smaller spur = smaller pinion right? ). Is there any advantage to having a larger spur gear?

Also, I'm using TRC tires. I had to trim the lower pod on the left side for clearance. Should I be shimming them out or was trimming the right thing to do?

You are correct. Smaller spur=smaller pinion. Dropping to a 96 tooth spur along with a 27 tooth pinion would give you the 1.67 rollout you were looking for. There has been alot of debate about spur gears and whether one size has a mechanical advantage over the other. I don't have an answer for you on that subject.

Double check your width. That is where the notch in the lower plate comes in handy. The rear end should be 6 3/4" overall or 3 3/8" from edge of tire to center of notch in both directions.

D.P.

D.P.

Thanks!

Lots of people actually notch their T-Bar so you can fit a bigger pinion with a 100 tooth spur......or you can get the offset ride height blocks

I trim the tires so they are about flush with the mounting hud. JACO and older TRC's wheels are flush with the mounting hub, the new yellow TRC's are offset some.

I'm pretty new to 1/12 scale...

Is a micro servo the only way to go or is a std. size servo ok?

I have filed/glued the edges to my chassis, should I do this to the rear pod plates also?