the one 5mm spacer is all you need as long as the shock set is the short bodies for the mini's not the sedans(slightly longer bodies)

and how long should the shock be in total (in mm)?
(I use TRF-shocks with spacers (5mm) in them)

another question:
I find two sets of shocks, especially meant for the mini: tam 50519 and tam 50746.
What's the difference between the two.


And about droopsettings:
I guess that I understand it correctly that I should make the shcoks with a 5mm spacer to shorten the shock-length .. and the adjusting the droop-settings by putting the mini higher or lower on it's wheels by turning the shock-collar (TRF-dempers) or changing the amount of clips on a plastic shock.

This will change the height of the car ... but will have a higher inpact as it also changes the droop ... am i correct?

secondly
could someone give me some advice on how I should change the droopsettings when I have not enough steering or when I have too much when going into a corner, compared to when I come out of the corner?

hi there i'm going to be running a 4HR M03 race indoor at my local track in Groningen NL

i have softerned my front shocks off as i was getting a lot of "push" on turn in this fixed it

i run 35wt in the front with medium springs and 3 hole pistons
50wt in the rear with medium springs and 1 hole pistons

5mm spacer inside the shocks (trf) to lower the droop

and lots of anti wear grease in the diff , but i still get quite a lot of wheel spin out of the corners , how do i counter this ??

cheeRS phil

I can tell you what works for me. I run indoors on a fairly good carpet.

Front: TRF Fluorine coated dampers (designed for 1:10 TC I think)
55wt. silicone fluid, short blue spring, 2 o-rings and a 3mm spacer inside, 1 o-ring outside. Droop is almost non-existent. Total travel is maybe 4-5mm. Ride height set to about middle of shock travel.

Rear: Same dampers, same spacers. 35wt. silicone, red short spring. Ride height a little bit higher.

Toe set to neutral at normal ride height. 1.5 degree toe in at the rear.

Tires are Team Powers (37?) pre-mounts all around. 5.0mm insert in front, 4.5mm in rear.

You can toss this car into a corner at just about top speed and it just goes where you point it. Pretty amazing, really.

I won my first a-main last week against a very good racer with this setup.

My number one biggest suggestion is run a tire smaller than 60d. Get the Tamiya 55d or any other tire of around that size. You'll be amazed by the car's ability to stick to the track.

And for those who don't know what that pic is all about...it's the winners at the Thailand International Touring Car Championship on the weekend.

And thats the Mini class winners

Mini 2WD A Main Final

1 -Tanit K. (TQ)
2 -Atsushi Hara
3 -Marc Rheinard

The question is, were the HPI/HB guys running the new HPI Switch FWD or not? Sadly there's no photos or info to say yes/no.

Either way, it was an M03M that won

well we are set for our 4HR race

just stripped and rebuilt the car

although we have worn out a 20 tooth pinion today

we fixed all the handling issues and the car is AWSOME to drive ,so responsive

i love the M-03

Part No 53509 - Hardened Flourine pinion (20T) .

Possibly wouldnt hurt to grab one of them Phil.....

are there any setups available from Mr hara or Mr Rheinard from this competition?

I would also like to know

HPI had their new 4WD Mini on display today at one of our races. The steering linkage doesn't seem like a problem especially if you mount the servo in the upright position rather than the laydown position in the photos. The controls on a helicopter are like this and the loads and the precision are greater than those in our applications. It looks like a quality kit
and the 240Z body is one I have to have. To mount it upright, the servo, that is, you do need to use a shorter servo.

What might not be noticed in the photos is that the wheels are larger. Bigger than our Mini wheels, but didn't seem to be as large as TC wheels. They may require special sized tires. The tires they did have seemed to be the same diameter as the Tamiya 60Ds, but were what could be described as low profile. My apologies for not measuring, but I was distracted by the racing.

today there are many hard case lipo in the market, which lipo its best value for money??...

what lipo do you use???

have any1 tested cheap hard case lipo against Team Orion lipo?

team orion lipo (kokam cell) was review as best lipo money can buy....i am thinking of getting them..for my mo3.....

currently i am using yeahracing 3200, i manage to open the hardcase, but found the battery a bit "balloon" like got some air the battery pack, was wondering if this happen to expensive cell too???

comment are welcome...

The ballooning happens I believe when you have a damaged cell or the cells are overheating. The cells will swell if they are not charging equally or overheat. Are you using a cell balancer when you are charging? Usually happens to older batteries or cheap cells. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

waar en wanneer, die 4uur-race?

PM'D you mate

your welcome i think

need a few drivers and a few batterys