I am looking for some thick 1/4 axle shims.

I am installing irs axle on a cyclone 12 and to get to 172mm I need alot of shims as the car was original design for 0 offset rims.

I have been unable to find anything but the .30 shims. I need something much thicker.

Any help?

Hi guys. I will be moving to the States (Virginia) around March next year and plan to race my 12th scale car at the Snowbrds and hopefully a couple of Nationals whilst over there. Could anyone give me a really quick run down on what rules govern this class of racing regarding motors please? IE, do you HAVE to run brushless for example? I thought I'd read somewhere that ROAR had stated this was the case but can't seem to find that post now. Also, with the differant types of additive you use over there, what, generally do you use tyre wise? And do you have a list of bodyshells you have to use or is it pretty much anything goes with bodyshells? Sorry for all the questions but I am serving over in Afghanistan at the moment and will have very little time to prepare for the move once finished over here! Thanks guys, Chris.

Senna555, fibre-lyte in the UK make carbon fibre spacers just for that job. The idea is that you space the axle out for normal wheels and then use the spacers from fibre-lyte with the off set wheels. They bolt in between the inside of the rim and the hub. Really easy to use and you don't have to keep re-spacing the axle for differant types of wheels! Cheers, Chris.

The more diff balls you run the less you will have to tighten the diff to keep it from slipping. This yields a much smoother diff with less wear and tear.

Depending how far you have to space them...BMI makes 3mm rear axle spacers. These are primarily designed to properly space the axle on the DB12R using the Jaco Prism wheels...but if you need 3mm or more they will work on any car.

Just use a bunch of shims... I find it is easier to get the right amount of play in the rear axle with more shims.

new prototype 12th scale from CRC

http://www.rc50.com/modules.php?name...lbum=55&pos=59
http://www.rc50.com/modules.php?name...lbum=55&pos=60
http://www.rc50.com/modules.php?name...lbum=55&pos=61

Looks like a T-force with a fatter t-bar and a brushless pod converson.

I'm seeing the t-bar being held to the rear pod with 3 pivots instead of the normal screws. Maybe to let the pod go back and forth without flexing the t-bar while still having the t-bar flex when the pod moves side to side?

Yup looks that way...funny how old ideas come back around again. I remember that from the old Cheetah Racing rear pod for the RC10L and I believe the Agitator used a similar system on their t-plate as well.

If there are only two holes in your spur gear I'm thinking you actually have a spur for a TC and those are mounting holes. Two holes is not going to work effectively for several reasons.

1) the diff rings are "balanced" on a line and are likely able to rock/tip back and forth. I would not be surprised if they actually "escaped" their keying (the 'D') with this. I would think that 3 balls (creating a triangle thus not allowing the rings to tip) would be the minimum that would even work reliably.

2) as mentioned before, the way a diff works is by having enough friction for the wheels to turn forward under power. The more diff balls (contact points) you have the less you have to tighten the diff to get the same amount of friction. 12 balls require roughly half the pressure as 6 balls and allows a noticeably smoother/freeer diff action. I can't imagine what 2 balls (in the diff, sickos ) would feel like.

Do yourself a favor and spring $5-6 for a proper spur gear and another couple bucks on enough diff balls to fill it. You will feel the difference as soon as it's built even if you don't sand the diff rings, etc.

Looks like they're using the same rear suspension idea of a BMI DB12R, but keeping the T-bar instead of having seperate flex plates.

Lets not forget the importance of having balls of all the same size. It is better to reaplace all the balls at once than one-by-one should you lose a few cleaning the diff.

If you have 12 balls and rings that have a few months of runs of them. heaven forbid that two rolled off the table when reaplacing the worn spur gear. Don't just slap in two new balls. You'll be better off to just leave those holes unfilled or totally replace the balls and rings. The reason being is that with two new balls, those balls will be slightly larger than the remaining 10 balls and the contact pressure will be more on those balls than the others. Resulting in a hard to tune diff. A little too tight, diff is sticky from those two balls digging in, little too loose, diff slips.

Thanks for the comments. I will pick up the right spur gear and some new diff balls.

Scottrik you mentioned sanding the the diff rings. What am I using to sand them with? I never realized there was this much to 1/12 scale. I'm wondering if I'm over my head here.

I always used 600 grit sandpaper on a flat surface to polish my rings. 1/12 cars are easy to get running but there's ALOT of small things you can do to make them either faster or easier to drive.