Alright I will try the P4 plugs.. and see whats up.

Fuel underneath my front bearing! And not even half a gallon through it, Same thing happed with my V-spec that now has a massive leak at the front bearing and unusable. I hope this brand new GRP dosent do the same thing!

Could it be the fuel(same fuel i used for my V-spec) im using? Its not running overly rich just rich enough for break in.

what fule
and how rich
a bearing going to leak if the motor to rich
half gallon that way to much fule for break in 6 tanks and lean it out

The fuel is called massive mods HB444 and is supposed to be one of the best made here in Australia.

Its not at half a gal yet, just did the 7th tank today and was going to tune for performance and give it a good run tomorrow.

This sucks, i wasn't expecting a shotty bearing in under a gallon from a grp.

If you tune the LSN first then when its good tune the HSN do you need to richen the LSN as you lean the HSN or lean the LSN as you richen the HSN. I thought the HSN affects the LS setting.

Also when breaking in do you primarily lean the HSN from tank to tank or do you lean the LSN or both?

i have had alot of engines leak when they are new, during break in usually because they are rich, i have around 4 gallons on mine and no leaks

Ok i leaned it out a bit more and ran another 3 tanks through it and there was little to no leakage this time, hope it stays that way. Now at 10 tanks.

And man, this engine is starting to open up now, it has a never ending top end atm, im scared if i try and let it reach maximum rpm it will go too far and out of range lol.

alright, i noticed it comes with 3 diffeerent ventris, should i run the smallest for better gas milage?

i use the 6.5 and 7mm restrictors, it seemed like the engine is more responsive with the smaller ones, it dosent really seem to take any power away like it should

I am not worried about power, but having less power helps with less wheel spin, which cause the buggy out of control. Its all driving ablitiy. everyone drives differently. i like smooth low power out of corner then high power before hitting jumps and straight ways.

then you might wanna try a 6mm i never tried the one i have in it yet, i feel the same way about power, its only good if u can put it down

Today during break in off a new GRP engine i had some troubles keeping it running under rich conditions with de GRP #5 plug. The outside tempature was high enough so that couldnt be it. I changed to a OS. P3 plug and i finished the break in with no problems at all.

Question is: Is it possible to go back 2 the GRP plugs or wont it seal proper now? (dont ask why i want to change back )

why are you guys having so much trouble with grp plugs? i have owned 5 ninja engines(4-.21's and 1-.28) and the only time i have had trouble with plugs was when my tune was off. i have broken in all of the engines with the supplied #6 or #7 plugs with zero trouble. the cold plugs are a little harder to tune, but they are very tough. currently i'm running 2 ninja .21's and a ninja .28 and all are running the grp #6 plug. i have used 7 plugs total between these engines since january of this year and the plugs i threw away weren't even bad, i just felt like it was time to change based on the amount of fuel put through the engines. i will be trying the grp #4 plugs to see if the tuning window gets bigger like i've heard.

Yes. You can switch back to the GRP plug. But don't keep on changing it often otherwise it won't seal properly.

I wonder how did this one guy made his GRP motor run 12 mintues one tank.. I know you have to do a good tune and setup, just curious because all i have heard was 10 mintue run time.. is it just a bullshit?

And shims? I wonder if i should not put any more shims in or should I?