8435 - Servo Mount & Screws, come will 4 screws, cost less than $2

O.K. this might be a silly question but where can i get the carpet used for indoor racing? I have access to a small warehouse and would like to practice on it.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7718822

yeah i've found that pink rears seem to work the best under cold - medium heat conditions, and soft kawada rears to be the ticket when the track is hot.

We (in New Zealand) don't run tyre compounds, or any additives on the track. But we seem to have the right setups to put some good laps / times in

Most people use shoe goo to mount flat servos. When you want to remove the servo it come off if you twist the servo. The remaing stuff on the chassis and servo just peels off.

If you mount the servo flat you must get taller med height ball studs for your steering spindles or you will have horrible bump toe in.

Don't use servo tape. Its too thick and makes the bump toe problem worse.

Flat servos are for carpet and angles servos are for asphalt. Flat servos generate less ackermann and make you car scrub less speed in the corners. On asphalt you need the ackerman to get more steering.

OD, do you have a puck conversion for the OD12? P2 had told me what to do to put a puck on the OD12, but I know I would mess it up, and it would look all jacked up.

Your confidence is underwhelming!

Paul was running car that way for a while and liked it, but since he went to tubes he likes it better that way. I was going to do a damper disc version but lost interest after P2 quit running it that way. I may still do it at some point, but its not high on the list, to be honest. If you want to try it I can get together with Paul and make up a kit you

It really is not that bad my confidence lately. Their really is no hurry for it. I will wait till you do decide to come out with a puck version for now. Thanks anyways. I have tried to make the pieces for the puck conversion and it did not come out right. Plus, it took patients to deal with the grinding and cutting, which right now I have no tolerence for. I just want to blot it up setup the car and go race. I have gone back to a puck car for right now because it feels more consistant to me as of now. The tubes were getting to be a pain in the butt with popping off when i would hit a wall and get runned over becoming useless after that. Not also to mention to find the right viscosity of fluid to put in the tubes to suit my needs for the rear pod.

Hi,
a new 1/12th (another one? yep!) car : http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=182337

A Linked-car with extreme sharp X-figured front end!
The VantommeM12 dates from early this month, please
check out above link for more details.

Benedict.

Just busting your chops, man I can understand someone not wanting to hack it together themselves, that's why I do what I do. As soon as we have something I will let you know

Orion Vortex Brushless Motors

anyone had chance to run 1 yet on 4 cell?

how'd they go compared to LRP, Novak items etc ?

I have just got my hands on an old but brand new Associated L3. Can anybody give me any tips or mods to do to this car??? I am going to run it on carpet and run 19t.

Thanks in advance

No problem OD. I knew you were busting my chops, what chops I have left.

Get rid of the Stealth diff and get a big ring differential from IRS or Niftech.
Replace the motor plates with lowered ones from IRS or CRC.
When the front end wears out or you break something, replace the lower arms with the new IRS lowered ones.

That's it!

I will test next week, or maybe this...

//p