BMI's DB12R
08-13-2007, 02:11 PM
#466
What length/type 4-40 screw are there the most of on this car?
I'm going to buy a bunch of 8-32 locknuts and figured I'd throw some 4-40 screws on since I am already paying for shipping.
Unless someone knows of a good place to get low profile aluminum 8-32 nylocks...
I'm going to buy a bunch of 8-32 locknuts and figured I'd throw some 4-40 screws on since I am already paying for shipping.
Unless someone knows of a good place to get low profile aluminum 8-32 nylocks...
08-13-2007, 03:37 PM
#470
Both my cars match....007 with red shims, contersunk washers..
DB12R with crome rear pod and axels, red shocks and red servo mounts..
See its all about the red and crome combo....
Car is stunning Bro. Seems your going to make alot of people very happy when you gave them a realistic date of delivery and then beat it, with your hard work and hopefully not having to ride Adrian too hard....
I think since your so far ahead you should take this weekend off and race...
Yea thats exactly what you should do.....
Let the Flames begin....
....
-Shookie <><
then next weekend we have a carpet race that i will take the DB12R out for its virgin run
08-13-2007, 04:20 PM
#472
08-13-2007, 05:14 PM
#475
Reactive caster - This gives your car less caster as it rolls into a corner. This allows you to set you car with some static caster (with the car level side to side) for straight line stability but as the chassis rolls into a corner the caster is reduced making the car turn in more quickly and have more mid corner steering. As the car exists the corner the chassis returns to level and the caster comes back for stability.
99.99% of the time the 10* reactive blocks are best. If you look in the pit boxes of guys like Barry Baker, Mike Blackstock and Josh Cyrul they usually only have 10* blocks. Mike Blackstock told me once that if you think you need a 5* block you have a problem elsewhere in your car.
The 5* block is a compromise. You will need to run less static caster to keep your corner entry turn in but this will cause you to lose some straight line stability. If you want to get rid of a violent turn in there are other settings to look at in a 1/12th car like pod droop, center shock angle, center shock oil and center shock spring.
0* blocks are for oval racers...I throw mine away with the bag and header card.
Bump Toe (in or out) - ...is not a good thing. Guys talk about this in regards to angled or laid down servos....but either way you need to set up your steering links to eliminate bump toe.
The reactive caster front end most of us use is designed to run with an angled servo. This allows you to run standard ball studs and you will have not bump toe. With this setting your car will have Ackermann. This means the inside wheel will trun inot the corner a couple degrees more than the outside wheel. This will give you more low speed steering. This is how most people run their servos outdoors.
With a laid down servo you will need to use longer ball studs on the steering arms of your spindles to adjust the steering link geometry to eliminate the bump toe. With a laid down servo you will have little to no Ackermann at all. This is better on high traction surfaces (like Carpet) where you already have a lot of steering. No Ackermann on a high traction surfaces gives more corner speed since the inside front wheel will be less likely to turn in past its optimum slip angle and cause drag.
That said Mod drivers run angled servos on carpet to get more steering...becuase you ALWAYS need more steering in Mod...lol!
99.99% of the time the 10* reactive blocks are best. If you look in the pit boxes of guys like Barry Baker, Mike Blackstock and Josh Cyrul they usually only have 10* blocks. Mike Blackstock told me once that if you think you need a 5* block you have a problem elsewhere in your car.
The 5* block is a compromise. You will need to run less static caster to keep your corner entry turn in but this will cause you to lose some straight line stability. If you want to get rid of a violent turn in there are other settings to look at in a 1/12th car like pod droop, center shock angle, center shock oil and center shock spring.
0* blocks are for oval racers...I throw mine away with the bag and header card.
Bump Toe (in or out) - ...is not a good thing. Guys talk about this in regards to angled or laid down servos....but either way you need to set up your steering links to eliminate bump toe.
The reactive caster front end most of us use is designed to run with an angled servo. This allows you to run standard ball studs and you will have not bump toe. With this setting your car will have Ackermann. This means the inside wheel will trun inot the corner a couple degrees more than the outside wheel. This will give you more low speed steering. This is how most people run their servos outdoors.
With a laid down servo you will need to use longer ball studs on the steering arms of your spindles to adjust the steering link geometry to eliminate the bump toe. With a laid down servo you will have little to no Ackermann at all. This is better on high traction surfaces (like Carpet) where you already have a lot of steering. No Ackermann on a high traction surfaces gives more corner speed since the inside front wheel will be less likely to turn in past its optimum slip angle and cause drag.
That said Mod drivers run angled servos on carpet to get more steering...becuase you ALWAYS need more steering in Mod...lol!
08-13-2007, 05:20 PM
#476
what reactive castor does is reduce your castor angle of the steering hub during suspension compression.depending on the angle you have will decide how much castor reduction you get.more castor reduction will make the car more aggressive on corner entry,less will make the car push more on corner entry.less reactive castor can be used for real high bite tracks where the car seems to drill the nose on entry.all the degree blocks are set for the same static castor angle.you have some adjustment with the shims but your static castor will remain the same with all of the blocks.the blocks change the forward angle the arm is mounted at.this is what makes the upper arm pull forward as you compress your suspension.i hope that i didnt make it confusing.
bump toe is another nice adjustment.toe in as we all know will reduce steering response.using bump toe in will tone the steering down when the suspension is compressed and will return to straight when the springs are relaxed.this also tones the car out on high bite tracks when needed.using the angled mounts will eliminate all bumpsteer and allow for more aggressive steering throughout the turn and will be most aggressive for tracks with less traction such as asphalt.
bump toe is another nice adjustment.toe in as we all know will reduce steering response.using bump toe in will tone the steering down when the suspension is compressed and will return to straight when the springs are relaxed.this also tones the car out on high bite tracks when needed.using the angled mounts will eliminate all bumpsteer and allow for more aggressive steering throughout the turn and will be most aggressive for tracks with less traction such as asphalt.
08-13-2007, 05:57 PM
#477
Bump toe in will make your car turn into a corner harder. As the suspension compresses the outside wheel will turn into the corner more than the steering input increasing turn in.
The reason I don't like any bump toe in is that it can give you what you want in some places on the track (like entering sweepers) and fight you in other places (like chicanes). It can pull the nose of the car too deeply into a corner when you want to make a quick direction change.
Bump toe can also make your car darty and unpredictable on bumpy tracks.
Bump toe out is all bad...all the time and will make your car do weird stuff. The good thing is that it is REALLY hard to get bump toe out in any 1/12th car.
The reason I don't like any bump toe in is that it can give you what you want in some places on the track (like entering sweepers) and fight you in other places (like chicanes). It can pull the nose of the car too deeply into a corner when you want to make a quick direction change.
Bump toe can also make your car darty and unpredictable on bumpy tracks.
Bump toe out is all bad...all the time and will make your car do weird stuff. The good thing is that it is REALLY hard to get bump toe out in any 1/12th car.
08-13-2007, 06:23 PM
#478
Huh ackman...
I still don't get, is the rod like \ / give more ackman, or like - - give more ackman.
What about rod like / \ ??
(Front on top, servo on middle)
I still don't get, is the rod like \ / give more ackman, or like - - give more ackman.
What about rod like / \ ??
(Front on top, servo on middle)
08-13-2007, 06:36 PM
#479
/ \ this is more ackerman makes the car smoother and easier to drive
08-13-2007, 07:01 PM
#480
Bump toe in will make your car turn into a corner harder. As the suspension compresses the outside wheel will turn into the corner more than the steering input increasing turn in.
The reason I don't like any bump toe in is that it can give you what you want in some places on the track (like entering sweepers) and fight you in other places (like chicanes). It can pull the nose of the car too deeply into a corner when you want to make a quick direction change.
Bump toe can also make your car darty and unpredictable on bumpy tracks.
Bump toe out is all bad...all the time and will make your car do weird stuff. The good thing is that it is REALLY hard to get bump toe out in any 1/12th car.
The reason I don't like any bump toe in is that it can give you what you want in some places on the track (like entering sweepers) and fight you in other places (like chicanes). It can pull the nose of the car too deeply into a corner when you want to make a quick direction change.
Bump toe can also make your car darty and unpredictable on bumpy tracks.
Bump toe out is all bad...all the time and will make your car do weird stuff. The good thing is that it is REALLY hard to get bump toe out in any 1/12th car.