This engine is simply an RS12 S1. If it's sooo good, why did they stop making it about 4-5 years ago?

If it's realy that good than why don't we all buy the package and sell the Plus 2 on Ebay, cheap!

I was also there at the mach track, the engine is good in the way novarossi describes it, a clubracing engine.
it's not as slow like a sts or a mega sp engine which was run by 2 fast drivers, who tryed that for getting the race more exciting.
This worked out very well, first 5 drivers where in 6 second of eachother.

hi dsmotorsport,
novarossi discribe it as a tranings engine, in a box with a high tech race engine.
how now??? that we get a engine for training to preserve the plus2?? or that we get a club engine??

dieter

Good News! I am breaking mine in now. Can't wait to try it. Looks like it will be good on fuel consumption. It is also a short stroke engine. I like the revs that the short stroke Novarossi engines make.

I just opened a NS12P and what I found is beyond ridiculous.

This is a mix and match puzzle from all their old engines.

At best, I'd say this engine is good for stadium trucks or as a rain engine, or if you want to run 10 minutes on a tank of fuel.

The crank has the smallest intake opening I've ever seen on an NR engine, not only the timing, but the port is so short, that when you look through the carb hole, half of the opening is blocked by the crank.

The counter weight on the crank is full circle like on the first MT12's and it'susing the long rod of the MT12.

If you look through the exhaust outlet, half the opening is blocked by the sleeve.

I'll try and mod this egine to where it's usable as an onraod engine, but I'm afraid, my Dremel won't be enough. I should probably get some dynamite to blast the holes to correct size....

Wow. That sucks. Sounds like someone would be better off buying one Nova engine, and if a club motor is needed by an inexpensive OS motor. They cannot say the price is justified, if the second motor is something no one will want to run. I use some of my older stuff as club/practice motors, but they are fast. You cannot practice with something too much slower than your "main event" motor. You will be starting all over again , because the car will seem so fast. Someone said it seems that Novarossi had a bunch of parts, and this was their way of getting rid of them. I hope that is not the case. I was planning on buying one of these motor packages, and if the second motor is complete junk, then I will take my business elsewhere.

i am not ranting just to be negative. I am an avid racer who truly cares about this sport, and feel that the manufacturers have a responsibility to provide quality products. 1/8th scale racing is like F1 racing, but without the huge paychecks, however many of us spend thousands of dollars on equipment. The least a provider can do is to make sure they are providing quality products. Engine prices are not getting cheaper.

the PLUS2 pics on Nova website are wrong.......

I do fell sorry for the customer who were expecting something like that.

I'm not saying that it's not a Novarossi fault, but it's very easy to see that the pictures are wrong because those parts are from .21 engines (shaft is from the 35plus 21 Rally, rod is from 35 PLUS and backplate from Collari or other .21 engine which comes with the new patented backplate), and the P/S set is a 5 port and the engine is actually a 3port............

I am glad someone else say that!
I don't think there was a mistake, I just think Nova has taken it alille too far..

What engine mixture changes are needed on race day as the temp warms up?
I am running an RS12s1X right now in a 710. Engine has 1 gallon through it right now.
Especially low speed, because in midday as it is warmer, the car stalls easier.
Any tips/hints or rules of thumb?

nova p5x modded should i run a jp-2 or jp-3 will be used in my new truggy with fironi clutch setup and 14 tooth clutch bell..most likely a cen matrix...please let me know guys

thanks,
Jayson

I think the JP-2 would give you the best all around power, someone else correct me if I am wrong the JP-3 is more of a top end pipe!

In a truggy I would use the JP3. The JP2 is suited more for the top end. You have to get those big tires rotating

I had an issue with my P5 Sunday and was wondering if anyone could help me out...

Motor was running very hot but didn't feel lean or anything. So I richened it up a little and then mid run it seemed like it was falling out of tune and became richer. It was so slow it couldn't get out of it's own way. Pulled it off the track and temp checked at 280 degrees but was idling fine. So I went back, pulled the plug and the wire was white and grey So I put a new plug in it and tuned it in my pit then went back out for another qualifier. Seemed to run great through warm up and first 3 or 4 minutes in. The last minute it did the same thing. Pulled it over and it is idling fine. Temp it and it's 311 So I thought I had an airleak at the front main bearing. Pulled the motor apart and it's not the main bearing and I don't see any other leaks on the motor. Still has good pinch but the top of the piston and head button look like they've been blasted with a very, very fine sand.

Any ideas? It's a P5x, running 30% Sidewinder, with extra copper head shim and a McCoy MC59 plug...

Your motor is detonating at top rpm. That's why it has a sandblasted appearance. Two things can cuase this.....Two hot of a glow plug and/or not enough head clearance. I should have read more closely what plug you wre running, but I would definately add a head shim!! By the sounds of your post your motor was detyonating pretty badly. A sure sign of a motor detaonating is perfromance going flat from mid-range to top end.

A MC59 is a hot plug so I guess I should've had an 8 in there. These Novas supposedly come shimmed for 25% but they say you are ok to run 30% with the stock shimming. I even went beyond that and added another copper shim. I spoke to another guy today who seems to think I wasn't getting a good seal in the head shims. He said it would only take a pin hole leak to do this and said he has seen it before...

A small leak in the head chamber won't cause detonation. If it is leaking it will cause lowered compression. Just the opposite symptom of detonation. It doesn't sound like that is the problem. Just don't keep running the motor while it is detonationg like that. It will destroy the piston. If you have rasied the head clearance already it just sounds like you need to run a number 7 or 8 plug. I believe the MC-Coy M59 translates to roughly a number 6 plug. I believe the MC-Coy M59 is also a non-turbo plug. Make sure when you buy the new plugs they are non turbo 7's or 8's as well.