pro3
#1711
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by rc-zombies
yea..it's pricey...
$50.00 is not too bad, that's how much I paid for mine....Ordering from Rainbowten $41.00 + $8-10 to ship.
but at least HPI made an effort to get some in the US to sell and
show they still support the PRo3.
yea..it's pricey...
$50.00 is not too bad, that's how much I paid for mine....Ordering from Rainbowten $41.00 + $8-10 to ship.
but at least HPI made an effort to get some in the US to sell and
show they still support the PRo3.
-Dave
#1712
pro3 parts
I have been wanting that graphite chassis since they showed it to us on the website.
just ordered one from buyhpi.
My pro3 is mostly stock with the prp top deck and with this new chassis my 3 will be even more solid. That chassis will be sweet.
I still race my pro3 and do quite well with it. I always liked the idea of the batteries down the center.
I kinda like being the only 3 at the track. Kinda makes ya feel like an underdog.
Later
Rod
just ordered one from buyhpi.
My pro3 is mostly stock with the prp top deck and with this new chassis my 3 will be even more solid. That chassis will be sweet.
I still race my pro3 and do quite well with it. I always liked the idea of the batteries down the center.
I kinda like being the only 3 at the track. Kinda makes ya feel like an underdog.
Later
Rod
#1713
Originally posted by rc-zombies
popsracer...
do you need a front one-way? I have one to sell along with some other parts...left over after I sold my Pro3
popsracer...
do you need a front one-way? I have one to sell along with some other parts...left over after I sold my Pro3
#1714
Tech Initiate
Thanks.
I try the WD40 strick. see how that works.
To popsracer.
I forgot the Alu spur gear adapter and alu clapon hexhubs in the hopup list.
Havend had the time to run the car yet but i will try it with one springrate difference front to back and i will try the rear uperlink.
I also changed the droop to 1mm in front and 3 in the back.
I don't have that much money now for the upperdeck and i cant order a prp upperdeck (live in the Netherlands and don't have a creditcard.) as some of u will have noticed that european car parts are relativly expensive in the US well HPI parts cost twice as much in the Netherland!!!
The only one i can get my hands on is the one from HPI itself but i heard its a struggle to get the battery's in and out.
I see how the above settings work out for me and see if i order the 3deg c-hubs to start with.
Any one have experiance with the HPI UPPERDECK!!!!
Thanks,
Whacky.
I try the WD40 strick. see how that works.
To popsracer.
I forgot the Alu spur gear adapter and alu clapon hexhubs in the hopup list.
Havend had the time to run the car yet but i will try it with one springrate difference front to back and i will try the rear uperlink.
I also changed the droop to 1mm in front and 3 in the back.
I don't have that much money now for the upperdeck and i cant order a prp upperdeck (live in the Netherlands and don't have a creditcard.) as some of u will have noticed that european car parts are relativly expensive in the US well HPI parts cost twice as much in the Netherland!!!
The only one i can get my hands on is the one from HPI itself but i heard its a struggle to get the battery's in and out.
I see how the above settings work out for me and see if i order the 3deg c-hubs to start with.
Any one have experiance with the HPI UPPERDECK!!!!
Thanks,
Whacky.
#1715
Tech Elite
Whacky;
I had Powerpole connectors on my Pack before the HPI Upperdeck installation and there was NO WAY they were going to fit with the Upper Deck. I even left it off for a while. What I did was install the small Euro Plugs on my Packs (side-X-side). It is a tight fit, but they go in and out reasonably easy.
The 3 degree Front Hubs will help the Car run a tighter line in the corners. The HPI Upper Deck helped some too along with the Graphite suspension Arms. Last major change was Raising the Rear Camber link to the top hole on the Hubs. The Car is VERY good now. Good enough where I don't feel the need to make changes everytime I drive it. Racing on Concrete this weekend, I'll let you Guys know how it turns out.
The 3 degree Front Hubs will help the Car run a tighter line in the corners. The HPI Upper Deck helped some too along with the Graphite suspension Arms. Last major change was Raising the Rear Camber link to the top hole on the Hubs. The Car is VERY good now. Good enough where I don't feel the need to make changes everytime I drive it. Racing on Concrete this weekend, I'll let you Guys know how it turns out.
#1716
Tech Initiate
Thanks Popsracer.
I tried the wd40 trick on the front belt and it still is tight (left it in the wd40 for 12 hours).
Should it be more lose after the wd40 bath or does it loosen up faster when driving the car.
Whacky.
I tried the wd40 trick on the front belt and it still is tight (left it in the wd40 for 12 hours).
Should it be more lose after the wd40 bath or does it loosen up faster when driving the car.
Whacky.
#1717
Tech Elite
Guys;
Got 3rd this weekend in Sportsman Stock "A" with the Pro-3. Had 2nd for a while, but a corner dot flub and a backmarker mishap kept me from catching 2nd place a for second time. The 1st place Guy got out front and drove a perfect race.
REALLY HAPPY with the cars performance and I Want to thank you all again for the help that you've provided me.
Side note: I made some minor changes to the TL01 that we have and it was Dialed too. Just need to work on the weight issue and freeing up the drivetrain.
Thanks, Steven
Got 3rd this weekend in Sportsman Stock "A" with the Pro-3. Had 2nd for a while, but a corner dot flub and a backmarker mishap kept me from catching 2nd place a for second time. The 1st place Guy got out front and drove a perfect race.
REALLY HAPPY with the cars performance and I Want to thank you all again for the help that you've provided me.
Side note: I made some minor changes to the TL01 that we have and it was Dialed too. Just need to work on the weight issue and freeing up the drivetrain.
Thanks, Steven
#1720
Tech Addict
pops where you racing at? You ever come to socal?
#1721
Tech Elite
Thanks to my online Friends
Thanks Guys.
teamAE;
Hobby People Fountain Valley. I'm a Nitro person first and a Electric second, so no So-Cal for me. Plus I live in San Bernardino and it's a long drive just to race electric.
(BTW, I got 1st in the Expert Nitro main too at the same race.)
teamAE;
Hobby People Fountain Valley. I'm a Nitro person first and a Electric second, so no So-Cal for me. Plus I live in San Bernardino and it's a long drive just to race electric.
(BTW, I got 1st in the Expert Nitro main too at the same race.)
#1722
Tech Initiate
Great job popsracer .
Keep the PRO3 alive and running.
About the TL01 drivetrain: Degrease the Ball bearings, use the carbon propeller shaft and use a teflon based grease on the gears, this makes up for a very smooth drivetrain.
The carbon propellor shaft is +/- 28grams lighter than the stock one.
Greatz
-Whacky.
Keep the PRO3 alive and running.
About the TL01 drivetrain: Degrease the Ball bearings, use the carbon propeller shaft and use a teflon based grease on the gears, this makes up for a very smooth drivetrain.
The carbon propellor shaft is +/- 28grams lighter than the stock one.
Greatz
-Whacky.
#1723
Don't let the avatar fool you!
I'm still running the Pro 3, and I've finally got it handling consistently (graphite arms are the key). It used to change character between every run, but now I can leave the setup the same and really feel how the track conditions/tyres are.
It's just that after two years, i'm a bit bored of it.
I do fancy one of those Yokomo's, but I'm effectively out of work from Saturday, so I think I should watch the wallet a bit...
...then again, we all deserve a treat from time to time, and what are credit cards for anyway?
I'm still running the Pro 3, and I've finally got it handling consistently (graphite arms are the key). It used to change character between every run, but now I can leave the setup the same and really feel how the track conditions/tyres are.
It's just that after two years, i'm a bit bored of it.
I do fancy one of those Yokomo's, but I'm effectively out of work from Saturday, so I think I should watch the wallet a bit...
...then again, we all deserve a treat from time to time, and what are credit cards for anyway?
#1724
Tech Initiate
Originally posted by Whacky
I tried the wd40 trick on the front belt and it still is tight (left it in the wd40 for 12 hours).
Should it be more lose after the wd40 bath or does it loosen up faster when driving the car.
Whacky.
I tried the wd40 trick on the front belt and it still is tight (left it in the wd40 for 12 hours).
Should it be more lose after the wd40 bath or does it loosen up faster when driving the car.
Whacky.
Anyone Please!
-Whacky.
#1725
Tech Champion
iTrader: (5)
Hello,
I am going to be putting together my Pro3 next week for racing on temporary use, but treated Asphalt tracks.
Car must remain 100% box stock HPI!! Springs and all to be legal for the HPI Challenge this summer. You guys have already been a lot of help-but now I need to know where to start with the Camber links and shock locations and spur and pinion for a MOnster motor. 64 pitch preferably. This is what I have now!!!
Set of 27r with red inserts on dish rims.
Set of 33r with red inserts on dish rims.
HPI Mondeo and ALfa 190mm bodies with optional wing kit.I realize I will be making changes as I go-but I need to be put in the ballpark!!!
Thanks,
Ray
I am going to be putting together my Pro3 next week for racing on temporary use, but treated Asphalt tracks.
Car must remain 100% box stock HPI!! Springs and all to be legal for the HPI Challenge this summer. You guys have already been a lot of help-but now I need to know where to start with the Camber links and shock locations and spur and pinion for a MOnster motor. 64 pitch preferably. This is what I have now!!!
Set of 27r with red inserts on dish rims.
Set of 33r with red inserts on dish rims.
HPI Mondeo and ALfa 190mm bodies with optional wing kit.I realize I will be making changes as I go-but I need to be put in the ballpark!!!
Thanks,
Ray