Hi everyone i was wondering if anyone would have a setup for a L4 raced on capet and in stock, also wat would be good tires to run also it would be low to med bite. thanks jordan

droop is adjusted by shock length based on shock mount location.you move the shock mount forward and this will change length also with still being able to adjust the pod droop seperately.this is a very good adjustment to have.we have 2 locations right now and i am working on an antenna mount that will allow for more than the chassis plate alone gives.

here's one way

yes usually the esc on the right side will balance the car pretty good

i measure my ball ends to a sertin length then cut
i have different ball ends for different droop settings
with or with out washers under the balls
from 0 to 2mm droop depending on how the track is.
if you move the ball forward the change is too great.
i think anyways
you can get a more precise change by cutting the 1 ball end.

Do ppls run caps with their GTX? for stock racing?

One thing about the GTB is the giant capacitor; you can locate it on the side opposite the esc to help balance the car. BTW I just balance the front part of the car without the motor pod attached. I don't think this is the best solution but better than balancing out the imbalance of the motor pod of a brushless car by piling weight on one side of the chassis

As far as width go what width are you guys running. I'm about running very close to 6.75 and my front I'm running is about 6.5?

I'm taking some notes on other people set ups and what not but I was wondering what kind of with are you guys running in your 12th scale.

Speedmerchant does but I wouldn't reccomend it. Mine shattered on the 2nd roll over.

Maybe you guys can help with this. My car handles great when I stay on the throttle and just adjust to the speed I need for each corner. But if I let completely off the throttle it's like I'm slamming on the brakes and the car gets loose. I'm using a P2K2 motor and a blue can Fantom Team Stock motor with a Quantum 2 ESC. I've got the punch set at 2, initial brake was at 2 I just reset it to 0, and the automatic brake is at 0. I just changed the initial brake but judging by sound it still seems like letting go of the throttle is the same as slamming on the brakes. Think maybe I'm running too much spring on the motor or is it a setup issue and not the brakes at all?

hi guys

im running a crc 3.2R with an 8x2 flatwire cobalt, i use 4200 intellect cells (matched), would a 3.5 brushless be more battery freindly and faster?
my club is an asphalt track medium size
and i also use a lipo to run the reciever and servo

thanks
chad

Haven't been running 1/12 long enough to give setup advice. However, a torquey motor like the P2K2 will have a lot of 'braking' action when letting off the throttle. You could try running larger rear tires to help keep the motor spinning, and/or bump up your transmitter neutral trim to a very slow roll.

I tried that...bumped up my trim to max and it still wasn't rolling yet...I think I'll have to add in some sub trim.

Edit - I redid the setup on the ESC and now I can get it to roll with the sub trim so maybe that will work. Thanks.

yes,i agree,what i am talking about is not pod droop though.hmm,i dont want to sound like i am being nasty because i am really not.typing never sounds good. what i am talking about is strictly just changing the pivot point.you adjust your pod droop afterwards.i always maintain a certain amount of pod droop but i mess with different pivot positions to alter the cars feel and handling by changing the length and angle with keeping the pod droop the same with a longer ball cup or shorter if needed.you know what i am saying?

what are the shims/spacers for in this pic, (those inside the red circle) ?