mangoman

iTrader: (11)

The Pro4 driveshafts are a different length (i think they are shorter) to the cyclone ones. I guess they might fit if you throw them in **SHRUG**

Also the FF and RR pivot blocks from the Pro 4 shouldnt be usable on the Cyclone as they are different.

Did you have any problems with the 3racing lower bulkheads. Ive swapped mine out quite a few times now and i find that it is too narrow and causes binding. It is only JUST too narrow but unfortunately for me the bulkheads will not go in with the diff properly

Also instead of going for the cyclone S upper bulkheads and CF shock towers i went for the full bulkheads and the 3Racing shock towers for the standard cyclone.


Did the 3racing FR and RF pivot blocks require shims to be installed on the hingepins to space out the arms? If you replace the plastic FR or RF with Hotbodies parts then you need shims to space it correctly while more shims are required if you swap over to the hotbodies/hpi pivot blocks.

Otherwise thats pretty close to what im running on my mutant Cyclone S.
Oh i did snap one of the 3racing universals on i think the first run, using a 10x1. It was the front left of my car but and i was running a front oneway so the front drive train takes more stress when you crash (would be the same with a spool). The universal broke at the point where the axle meets the ball (that goes into the diff cup). It snapped clean off i was pretty disappointed with that. I shifted out the other front one and went with the proper cyclone universals which looks a lot more solid.

One thing i would suggest if you can get your hands on them, is a p-dub bumper. The bumper is stiffer and WIDER than the standard bumper and thus provides the front suspension with more protection

academygaz

The TIR ones I'm using are a little too long, they are as far into the spool outdrives as they can go, but they don't seem to be binding anywhere in the steering range.

They fit and work fine, I think you mean the FR and RF ones, as the belts go under the kit ones (which they can't do with the Pro 4 versions)..

No issues here. I built up the kit with the alloy plus the tub, all went together well before I then went to carbon. Have you built them with the lateral posts? I did and they are square to the chassis, but I've read that some people left them off and are having probs with them lining up right.

I considered doing the same, but I had a pretty nice setup on the car as it was with the standard positions, and I'm too lazy to find another one.

No, the plastic insert bushing in the pivot block has a short shoulder, like a built-in spacer. You just need to run spacers on the front end of the hingepin.

Also, the bushing is 'hollow', and in a hard impact the hingepin can slide back and go inside the block just far enough for the whole corner of the car to move round. When it happens in a race, it looks like you've snapped the wishbone or the hingepin, but all is fine, just slide it back out. Once I've figured out how to sort it, I'll post it here, but its only happened once since September, its not a big issue.

I found the same thing when running a 27t and the front diff tightened up, before I got the TIR driveshafts. Axle is fine, but snapped the bone right at the joint. They are fine on the back of the car, its not a lot of load (might be an issue on carpet w/foams, I'm on dusty tarmac w/CS22's).

P-Dub coming up, already got a little addative staining on the Pro 4 bumper.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Cheers thanks for the replies

Yeah with regards to the bulkheads i do run the posts,i guess i could hollow out the plastic diff bearing holders (i assume you are still using the plastic ones and not the 3racing alloy ones).

With regards to the RR FF blocks from the Pro 4 im pretty sure i tried to use them as a zero degree pivot block on the Pro 4 and found that they are actually different.

That sounds annoying with the bushing on those 3racing RF FR blocks. I think i might fork out some extra dollars for genuine HB ones to play it safe.

Also did you find that the space between the 3racing alloy motor mount (and brace on the otherside) was narrower. On mine its like (from memory) 1.5 mm narrower which means you cant fit the centre pulley in without it binding on the bearings.
Fortunately i bought the 3racing one piece alloy spur gear mount which is pretty handy. Wish i had bought an extra one so i can fit it to my other cyclone.

Also i heard that that some of the Schumacher drivers were complaining that the TIR universals dont seem to be that strong (ie bending) i would be interested in knowing if you find yours bending (ive now got two pairs to test so ill see how mine go).
I have a pair of Square RC titanium CVDs on my Pro 4 and one guy mentioned how he ripped the entire front corner of his car and the universal was still straight!!! But if you come across the Square RC universals they are heaps heavier and just have that indestructible feel to them.

kwellst

iTrader: (3)

im running foams on carpet until winter is up, so i am trying to stiffen the car up, while also lightening the car and the drivetrain as much as possible, to ease the strain on the motor. the tir axleshafts are weak but they are superlight. but im just gonna stick with the stock axleshafts for now.

academygaz

No, I've got 3R alloy bearing holders - I forgot about them! They don't really make a difference over the kit plastic ones anyway.

Everything's sitting square and true on the chassis. I got my parts within a couple of days of release, maybe there was a problem at the factory that caused some parts to me machined wrong?

I've TIR Worlds edition ones, I think they are 1mm thicker than the regular ones. I used to have an MI2EC with TIR regular CVD's and I had one twist with a spool! If I can find some Square ones over here, I'll get them on the front, then retire the 3R ones I have on the back, and move the TIR ones over.

chupstar1000

From which brand are these aluminum screws and this cool boxes???
Any ideas?

padailey

iTrader: (11)

Well I took a chance and ordered all the 3racing lower bulkheads. Hope I have better luck with them than Mangoman. I'll let everyone know how it goes. I'm running 13.5 brushless lipo rubber and have the balance pretty good on the car but I am slightly under weight. Hopefully the aluminum is just enough to put me over the min limit so I don't have to add weights.

Car is running great... don't have any complaints with the car at all. Only my driving! I've added a bunch of parts but performance wise the biggies for me were aluminum diffs and front universals. Other than that the rest is pretty much bling (but I like bling it looks fast). So anyone new to the "S" those parts would be my recommendations to start with if you are running the same type of class.

I was running 4300 foam and it was going pretty well also. I was shocked at how well the car cornered. It looked like it was going to roll over but always held on. Had to get over thinking it would roll and just drive! I'll have to get the BMI chassis if I go back to foam but I won't worry about that for now.

turtle

iTrader: (2)

I brought a front spool for my cyclone S (part no. 61045) and tried to install in today, but it seems the dogbones dont fit inside the hubs.
Do you need to run uni's to use a spool?
If so, can someone give me the part no. for them.
Thanks.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

There is a v2 universal and these have a line through them, but i thought they have a bigger ball on the end than the dog bones.

One thing to keep in mind is that if you install a spool you will have to replace the centre pulley system. If you stick with the stock plastic stuff you will strip them when you tag the barriers. If the rear of the car starts sliding out savagely on power you have most likely stripped the centre pulley for the front belt.

You would be better of replacing the dogbones in the front but make sure you get the right universals to suit the spool.

turtle

iTrader: (2)

So if I get uni's they will fit in the spool cups?

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Might or might not, you have to get the right versions. Looks like you have the older version of the spool. Ask in the main Cyclone thread, there will be more people there who will be able to help you.....

bullfrog_racer

Hi guys, was wondering if anyone can help me, I am new to RC and am running up my Cyclone S, I am racing on a larger circut, as Nitro cars run on it as well. It has a long back straight where the nitros hit 2nd gear about halfway down. but also for the electric cars have some tight turns etc.

I run out of legs down the back straight and loose to much ground. I am told for this circut I need to get a 51mm rollout, the car was keeping up well apart from the back straight.

I am currently running a 96/48, tyres are 62mm(diameter), we race Stock silver cans (14500 RPM), which gives me a rollout of 39.93, Cyclone S ratio is 2.4375. I am still using 64 pitch but may have go to 48 pitch maybe something like 69/42 for a rollout of 48.62mm.

I am just a bit worried that they will not mesh properly if I get it wrong, any suggestions appriciated.

One more thing, what are the best value upgrades for speed and performance?

Great thread best one I've come across, hopefully as I learn I will be able to contribute also.

Thanks

padailey

iTrader: (11)

For me personally it was aluminum diffs and front universals.

BillyCaldwell

iTrader: (32)

You may also get the aluminum layshaft pulleys.
Have you ever thought about switching to 64 pitch gears? Its alot smoother, and to me has just felt better all around.

bullfrog_racer

I am running 64 pitch at the moment but because I need a rollout of 51mm, I dont think I can achieve this with 64 pitch as I cannot find any 64 pitch spur gears lower than about 88. , and I think I need to maybe run about a 78-80 spur and 50 pinion.

Also what are the aluminum layshaft pulleys?

Thanks