When you say more droop you mean more downtravel on the motorpod, correct?
What would be a good starting point for pod droop?

Edit: typo

what effect will the in-line front axles have a 12th car?

It will cause a huge increase in steering response and the car becomes really twitchy in general.

Most folks that try it in 1/12th don't like it (me included). But, give it a whirl and see. Won't know until you try.

-Rich

Whether I am correct in my thinking or not, but in my view there are two "components" to what the rear pod does in regards to 'droop.'

Droop for me is how far down the rear of the pod can travel down. How adjustable this is depends on whether the car has a T-bar or not. The link cars that do not have T-bars have a lot more range of how much the rear pod can sag (depending on center shock length). In general I adjust it to be either 1 - 2 mm. How do I measure that? I set my droop setting blocks from my touring car under the main chassis and then use the droop gauge to measure how far down the rear edge of the pod sits.

Sag for me is how far down the front of the pod and the back of the main chassis sit below normal ride height. In general I keep it level but sometimes I let it sag about .5 - 1.0mm below ride height.

Those two components (droop and sag) work together in affecting the car's handling - especially off and on power.

What I mean is, if the sag is set at 0mm and the droop is set at 1mm, that is effectively 1mm of droop travel. However, if the sag is set at 1mm and the droop is also set at 1mm, then there is effectively 2mm of droop travel.

-Rich

I believe in Capatilism but $24.99 for a $2.00 bearing?

it would be a good idea to understand what you are getting before flaming

A buddy of mine here in Michigan sells ceramic bearings for various cars and just received a new shipment which includes front and rear bearings for 1/12th cars. I do not know if he has unflanged front bearings, tho.

If anyone is interested I can ask him to post on here with his info. He's primarily just been selling them locally to the local hobby shops in the area.

Or, if you are a hobby shop and would like to carry his bearings, let me know and I'll have him get in contact with you.

His prices are low so you won't cry for a day if a bearing gets blown out in a bad crash.

-Rich

I'm not sure where you can get the thrust and races for $2, but I'll go with what you say for my argument.

You ARE paying exactly $2 for the $2 bearing. The remaining $23 is for the machined delrin collar that makes it work. In my case I paid $28 for those collars and feel they were well worth the money. Yes, I probably could make them myself, but it just ain't worth the time sourcing the material and setting up the lathe to do two or three of them when someone has already invented that "wheel".

Scottrik

have a look here folks and see if you can help

VXR Li-Po / Regulator Problem

Yea remove the red wire from the ESC going into the Reciver...It is tryign to give power to the reciever when there is none needed...
Just pop out the red wire, fold it back and put a tiny bit of electrical tape or shrink wrap so it you ever plan on running the ESC in a car without a reciver pack
Hope that helps,
-Shookie <><

Not flaming... check out page 273 of this very thread....


Actually $5 total....

again read what was written. there is a delrin collar. that is the special "sauce"

Here ya go... Have fun.... http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...?t=37&page=273

There's no "special sauce...."

not sure what you are pointing to, but the delrin collar rides on the outside of the bearing in the hub, not on the inside like every other collar on the market. so unless you can find that collar somewhere for a couple of $, the hpi thrust bear does you no good.

So I guess the setup I've been using on my car doesn't work? Rebuilt my diff on saturday and it was working perfectly....