2991Likes1/12 forum
07-22-2006 | 03:56 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 134
quote from corally manual
"Do not replace this steering system or remove the play at the centre pivot. The tolerances in the track rod eyelet's have been designed to aid straight line stability. Fitting 'play free' ball joints will change the geometry and make the car very difficult to drive- you have been warned!!!"
that steering system seems to work fine for me
"Do not replace this steering system or remove the play at the centre pivot. The tolerances in the track rod eyelet's have been designed to aid straight line stability. Fitting 'play free' ball joints will change the geometry and make the car very difficult to drive- you have been warned!!!"
that steering system seems to work fine for me
07-22-2006 | 06:39 PM
Anyone see how Darkside deals with this issue on the 10th scale oval pan cars? It's a center-pivot bellcrank rack with a single trailing link arm to the servo. A nice alternative, but the larger cars have more room to do this with. Pretty slick idea, though.
I wonder if the zero-Ackerman/zero bumpsteer sliding rack that Custom Works designed many years ago for dirt oval could be developed in a 12th scale format? It's a flawless setup for 2wd dirt oval cars, no reason why something simple couldn't be adapted and designed for 12th, too.
I wonder if the zero-Ackerman/zero bumpsteer sliding rack that Custom Works designed many years ago for dirt oval could be developed in a 12th scale format? It's a flawless setup for 2wd dirt oval cars, no reason why something simple couldn't be adapted and designed for 12th, too.
07-22-2006 | 06:54 PM
Stormer Hobbies carries them at about that price. Their stock goes in and out, but they had just about everything a couple of weeks ago when I placed my order.
When you run them, make sure to glue the sidewalls of the rears if you run anything close to a high bite surface. Otherwise, they split pretty easily (then chunk). Even the firm compound rears...
When you run them, make sure to glue the sidewalls of the rears if you run anything close to a high bite surface. Otherwise, they split pretty easily (then chunk). Even the firm compound rears...
07-22-2006 | 07:43 PM
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Stormer Hobbies carries them at about that price. Their stock goes in and out, but they had just about everything a couple of weeks ago when I placed my order.
When you run them, make sure to glue the sidewalls of the rears if you run anything close to a high bite surface. Otherwise, they split pretty easily (then chunk). Even the firm compound rears...
When you run them, make sure to glue the sidewalls of the rears if you run anything close to a high bite surface. Otherwise, they split pretty easily (then chunk). Even the firm compound rears...
07-22-2006 | 08:49 PM
i run the jaco wraps and i have to glue the outer sidewalls.i dont do the inside because really the outside is only under the excesive side load.im sure the same applys for the crc ones.
07-23-2006 | 06:00 AM
I ran Jacos and TRC all of last season in stock and 19T and had never had to glue sidewalls ever (I don't like doing it—I think it looks hack and it makes the tires behave erratically). I was surprised that after a single test session in stock (purple/grey), that the rears pulled themselves apart. After a re-glue, they were fine, but I wouldn't run those again without gluing them.
07-23-2006 | 07:16 AM
yeah,its only the TRC and JACO wraps that i have had this issue with.the standards i never had a problem.i never tried the new CRC tires so i cant say for them.from what your experience with them was,i would say they fall into the same catagory.
07-23-2006 | 07:19 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,895
From: Portland Oregon.
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
I ran Jacos and TRC all of last season in stock and 19T and had never had to glue sidewalls ever (I don't like doing it—I think it looks hack and it makes the tires behave erratically). I was surprised that after a single test session in stock (purple/grey), that the rears pulled themselves apart. After a re-glue, they were fine, but I wouldn't run those again without gluing them.
Apex the car shouldnt be erratic ( inconsistant ). Now if you glue the whole side wall. You will loose traction.
This is a trick for running on high bite carpet, to make the car less prone to traction rolling. But at that point you only coat 1/2 to 3/4 of the sidewall.
You'll be giving up cornering traction.
Now your only supposed to put a small bead of glue at the seam. If you apply it neatly it wont be hack, you only need enough at seams! .
Last edited by speedxl; 07-23-2006 at 07:29 AM.
07-23-2006 | 07:40 AM
Originally Posted by TFR
Anybody know where I can get some CRC procuts cheaper than their own online shop? I have seen one of the Japan online shop selling them for around $13USD a pair but they are out of stock.
Kraig
KT Hobbies
07-23-2006 | 08:29 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,895
From: Portland Oregon.
Originally Posted by protc3
yo hector,i had my wraps split at the rim and between the tire and wrap.i just glued up to the wrap part and it worked great.you going to the state race at b abd b bro?
I got sick during the last state race at Strickland. I need to make up points!
07-23-2006 | 08:30 AM
hell yeah,its 15 minutes from my house 
i wanna run my 1./12th and some mod touring. for some reason i never ran my 1/12th at a state race.i always just run touring.it should be some good comp and alot of fun.see you there 
i wanna run my 1./12th and some mod touring. for some reason i never ran my 1/12th at a state race.i always just run touring.it should be some good comp and alot of fun.see you there