Keyence ESC
#586
Check out one of the shops/distributors on this link and see what you can arrange
http://hobby.keyence.co.jp/english/shop.html
http://hobby.keyence.co.jp/english/shop.html
#588
hi adrian i was wondering if you could offer advice on my keyence zero v extreme? I have had it some years now but cannot rememner exactly when i bought it. I have run a schottky on it since day 1 and still going strong (i hope) what i was wondering is that on reading this thread i have no idea if it has ensa fitted or not, what is the easiest way to tell it makes no mention of it in the instructions i got. Also due to me running a schottky how can i tell if i have damaged the fets (i read one of your earlier posts about damaging them and noticing the next time that you were 1 second a lap slower) but i race on different layouts all the time so have lttle to compare would t be a very noticable difference. Finally can you advise yes or no to running a schottky if it is indeed an earlier model without ensa.
Thanks in advance
Nathan
Thanks in advance
Nathan
#589
Tech Initiate
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 43
Originally Posted by 2-Bad
I contemplating getting a Rapida Pro and was interested if anyone has any issues they have had with it....
Any feature dislikes, horror stories, bad performances....etc
Any feature dislikes, horror stories, bad performances....etc
I run Rapida Pros in my touring cars and love them. They are a little confusing to set up at first, but once you get used to it you should not have any problems. Only time I have ever had trouble with one was from a bad wreck. My favorite feature.... No capacitors, No Diodes.
#590
I found the opposite...
I found the Rapida Pro to be a breeze to set up...
scroll through the menu to see which parameter you need to adjust, press the set button..use the radio trigger to adjust it and then hit set when you are done..
The map of the function menus on the back of the manual makes it nice and easy once you read the instructions to figure out what each of the parameters does...
nice, straightforward, quick and easy....loving it so far
I found the Rapida Pro to be a breeze to set up...
scroll through the menu to see which parameter you need to adjust, press the set button..use the radio trigger to adjust it and then hit set when you are done..
The map of the function menus on the back of the manual makes it nice and easy once you read the instructions to figure out what each of the parameters does...
nice, straightforward, quick and easy....loving it so far
#591
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 148
Originally Posted by AdrianM
The Exstraight uses the same FET boards as the Rapida Pro so it has super low resistnace but it has all of the Rapida's advanced features removed. All you do is set it to your transmitter, set the min brake and current limiter on the pots and you are done.
It sells for $119.99.
It sells for $119.99.
#592
The ExStraight runs at 2950Mhz(2.95Hz).
If any one needs Keyence setup details you can find it in this post:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...2&postcount=166
If any one needs Keyence setup details you can find it in this post:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...2&postcount=166
#593
Originally Posted by AdrianM
...
If any one needs Keyence setup details you can find it in this post:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...2&postcount=166
If any one needs Keyence setup details you can find it in this post:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...2&postcount=166
#597
Here's the long version:
I like setting my own parameters rather than using a preset program. Looking through the settings I always see one goofy thing I don't like in the presets.
This is what I set for Stock and 19T Sedan racing:
Main:
nutr - 4p
d_po - 10p Run it as low as 0p if you don't like the snap 10p gives you coming out of corners.
b_po - 10p
nubr - 0p
f_br - OFF
EnSA - 100p
FRQ:
d_Fr - 1.5 If your motor fades at the end of a run walk the frequency up to as high as 2.5. The better you are are rolling in the throttle gradually the lower you can run the FRQ without fading.
b_Fr - 5.0 This higher FRQ make for smooth brakes and keeps the comm from getting burned if you brake hard.
nbFr - Doesn't matter you don't need neutral brake for stock.
This is what I set for 10T to Open Mod Sedan racing:
Main:
nutr - 4p
d_po - 0p You don't need extra snap coming out of corners...
b_po - 5p
nubr - 0p I start with this and add some if the track requires it
f_br - OFF
EnSA - 0p (Rapida) or 30p (Zero V EX 2002) you have to run 1 or more Schottky diodes to use this setting. I run 5 on Oscar Jansen's (Orion's Motor guru) suggestion. This helps keep you motor alive under hard braking.
FRQ:
d_Fr - 2.5 If your motor fades at the end of a run walk the frequency up to as high as 5.0. The better you are are rolling in the throttle gradually the lower you can run the FRQ without fading. Schumacher's Paul Wynn can 1.5 in Mod with no problems
b_Fr - 5.0 This higher FRQ make for smooth brakes and keeps the comm from getting burned if you brake hard.
nbFr - 5.0 This higher FRQ make for smooth brakes and keeps the comm from getting burned
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Adrian Martinez
Sales Manager
Schumacher USA
[email protected]
This is what I set for Stock and 19T Sedan racing:
Main:
nutr - 4p
d_po - 10p Run it as low as 0p if you don't like the snap 10p gives you coming out of corners.
b_po - 10p
nubr - 0p
f_br - OFF
EnSA - 100p
FRQ:
d_Fr - 1.5 If your motor fades at the end of a run walk the frequency up to as high as 2.5. The better you are are rolling in the throttle gradually the lower you can run the FRQ without fading.
b_Fr - 5.0 This higher FRQ make for smooth brakes and keeps the comm from getting burned if you brake hard.
nbFr - Doesn't matter you don't need neutral brake for stock.
This is what I set for 10T to Open Mod Sedan racing:
Main:
nutr - 4p
d_po - 0p You don't need extra snap coming out of corners...
b_po - 5p
nubr - 0p I start with this and add some if the track requires it
f_br - OFF
EnSA - 0p (Rapida) or 30p (Zero V EX 2002) you have to run 1 or more Schottky diodes to use this setting. I run 5 on Oscar Jansen's (Orion's Motor guru) suggestion. This helps keep you motor alive under hard braking.
FRQ:
d_Fr - 2.5 If your motor fades at the end of a run walk the frequency up to as high as 5.0. The better you are are rolling in the throttle gradually the lower you can run the FRQ without fading. Schumacher's Paul Wynn can 1.5 in Mod with no problems
b_Fr - 5.0 This higher FRQ make for smooth brakes and keeps the comm from getting burned if you brake hard.
nbFr - 5.0 This higher FRQ make for smooth brakes and keeps the comm from getting burned
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Adrian Martinez
Sales Manager
Schumacher USA
[email protected]
#598
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 148
Originally Posted by AdrianM
The ExStraight runs at 2950Mhz(2.95Hz).
If any one needs Keyence setup details you can find it in this post:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...2&postcount=166
If any one needs Keyence setup details you can find it in this post:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...2&postcount=166
#599
Originally Posted by jawa
I think you mean 2.95khz. I just got two Exstraight from Japan, specification says PWM 2.93khz. Unfortunately, the manual is only in Japanese. Where can I find an English version? There is nothing on the Keyence web site in the manual section for the Exstraight model.
The ExStraight is super simple:
1. Turn it on
2. Push and hold the setup button until the LED start blinking
3. Keep you finger off the trigger and push the Set button once to set neutral
4. Pull full throttle and hold it then push the Set button to set high throttle
5. Push full brake and hold it then push the Set button to set max brake
There is a current limiter dial that should always be maxed out so it dose not limit the current.
There is a Min Brake dial that sets how much initial braking you get. I leave this at zero.



