First Mod is a Center Bash Plate and server Cover.
Next titanium Push rods and Hing pins.
Basicly the metal those pices are made of has the general consistancy of Playdow.
The Next thing i would look at is a beter stearing servo, Not esentule but definately nice.
After that it all comes down to what you break.
If I were to start again I wouldn't end up with as much alloy on my maxx because I wouldn't flip the damn thing over quite as often any more.
Basicly if you arn't breaking bits then put all your cash into good Batteries.
7 cell good quality batterie packs are your best investment into getting power out of your maxx.
If you want speed then you might want to look at a lower turned motor (Less turns are faster but less torque) But be carefull because you will start getting higher current draw and putting your esc at risk.
Your other option is simply go for a larger pinion.
Oh a though just occured to me, get yourself a pack of slipper pegs. The Maxx ships with ony half of them in. worth filling the slipper clutch with them and tightening it down a fair bit. otherwise it is slow on the take off and will ware em out.

Once you have been running your maxx for a while you will notice that the out drives will be twisting (Especially if you go 7 cell) swap em out for some metal CVDs. Every one sais go MIP. I went some XTM ones from e-bay, so far they havn't caused an issue, but they are still young.

uhh... lower turn is more top speed and less torque.. lolz, im not a noob at RC's, hahaha. ive been into touring cars for about 2 or so years. but yeah, im not really sure what to get next.. i need to sell my nitro first tho. i also need to fix my front diff before i get anything new for the truck, but thanks for the help. =]

Sorry for Underestimating your Knowledge (Got Carried away)

For the Diff I just bought the parts and built up a new one then swapped it out (But then again it was my First Diff Rebuild)
The local word on Diff builds is pack the Cup full of heavy greases, this loads it up so it doesn't diff out as much.
It is also generally stated that you pack the rear diff with heavier grease than the front.

I personally can't say I can see the difference, but I may have used grease that wasn't heavy enough. (There was some info when I asked the question in the T-Maxx thread.)

you said that you swapped your diff. , was it hard to get out? because seeing as i need to take it apart and tighten up whatever came loose, i am not sure how much time it would take or how much work would have to be done.. am i better off doing it myself or giving it to my local hobby shop to repair it for me?

To remove your Diff

Remove Wheels
Remove the mount brackets for the Bumber from the bulkhead.
Remove the Front Skid plate (This is integral to the Truck structure)
Remove the 4 screws that hold the bulkhead to the body plate.
Thread the Drive shaft appart and seperate the Bulkheads
The Diff is now in your hand.
I don't think I have forgoten anything, then again I am at work and My Maxx is at home.

[EDIT]
oops Forgot that is for the rear, for the front you also have to disconnect your stearing pushrods
[/EDIT]

hmm... doesnt sound too difficult... haha, might try it out over the weekend, thanks! =] if i cant seem to get everything working, ima bring it to the shop.

Oops Missed a Step.
The Shock Tower also needs to be removed, it hods the two bulkheads together.

bah.. tried to do it but couldnt. one reason is that i dont have the right hex sized wrench/screwdriver to take out the bumper thingy.. another is because i have the flu and my headache raelly isnt helping.. i will probably just bring it to the shop and they will charge me.. ill get an est. and ask you guys if its worth it, lol.

well.. i finally took the front end apart... took forever, and my thunbs are all sore and feel like they have blisters on them.. i finally got to the differential and there i was stuck.. how the hell do you tighten a spur diff on an emaxx? i had no idea.. seeing as the only things iver worked on before were my touring cars and they all have ball differentials or one way diffs... so can anyone answer my question? how do you tighten them? it took me forever to put the emaxx back together, mostly because of frustration of putting the bulkhead back together.. that little ring thingy above the center cup that is supposed to go into those two holes on both sides of the bulkhead.. gave me a headache for about a half hour.. then i finally took it out because i was thinking about hammering the damn thing in when i realized one side was shorter than the other.. so i turned it around and put it back together.. but anyway.. yeah.. how do you tighten the differential???

Ouch... sounding like Frustrationsville Central.
If it is any consolation, it gets easier every time you do it.

Now to your Diff.
What do you meanby Tighten?
It is not a Friction style diff like a Bal Diff. The gears are directly drivven. If the teath on the gears are not worn and the shimming is correct it doesn't slip ever. What it does do is diff out, so the unloaded wheel gets all of the rotation.

I will try to find the Page I used as a guide (It was really good)
Will get back to you with that info ASAP

alright thanks.. uhh.. if any more info helps, ill provide some about the issue. if i porp the truck up in wheelies position with all the electronics off, you can spin any of the front wheels freely with little or no friction.. you can smack it and it will just spin. it just really feels like the differential isnt biting or sumthin... i can hold one of the wheels steady and spin the other wheel too.

If you want' strip down your diff, and take photos as you go. Post em and we can see what condition they are in.

The key points to look at are that the main gear still has all it's teeth, that the input gear has all it's teeth and that hte two mesh properly.

Next open up the diff cup (Take the main gear off the cup) and check that hte output gears and spider gears have all there teeth and that hte insides of the cup arn't trashed (There are two rails teh spider gear axile fits into they shouldn't be trashed)

FHM has a good writeup on rebuilding diffs here http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...=49101&page=14
Here is an other write up on diff building http://www.rcnitrotalk.com/2004/t-ma...tial-shimming/

I am still looking for the guide I followed, but these should help

ok. i might take it apart and take pics later, but for now, i have a big project due on tuesday sooo.. ill check back on the thread later. thanks for linking and all the help. =]

This thread inspired me to rebuild my E-MAXX! Between yesterday and today I put a new front diff in, bent back my aluminum bulkheads that got mangled in a bad crash while racing at the track, and put in a new motor to replace the burnt out one. I still have to put the steel rollcage back on (I'm going to powder coat it again if we ever get that damn powder coating equipment ), adjust the shocks (I have one with a Tamiya rod end, a Tamiya spring cup, and a Tamiya shock shaft because the stock parts were mangled in a wreck), cut and bend out a new rear skidplate from 6061 T6 aluminum (The stock one is so damaged it no longer holds the rear suspension on the chassis), fix my steel bumper guards, Install new bumper mounts, install new bumper braces, put a through-bolt linkage on the steering tie bar, and fix some damaged rod ends that keep coming off.

It may look like a long list but it really isn't. I can't wait to get it running again. If I get the chance, I will take it down to the shop and make a set of 1/4" solid shock towers to replace the stock ones...you know, just in case!

Anyone have the Gen III Ultramaxx Tranny gears? or know where i can get some????